weileong

If you need to break the base then remember to use less force and hammer slowly then you won't break the frags so easily.

How come I just mention abt the salifert then you have to drag that gadget in? Hanna not for everyone lar and for you no need to use it, salifert is good enough for you since you are running PO4 remover.

and the longan came from you?

that one no need to use hammer and screw driver wack one... just use screw driver dig from the base of the frag can already. They use silicon around the frag one so it's still possible to dig out. Compulsory Fragging syndrome

*pengz* totally mislead me lol.... in this case no reasons to change at all. But do you think if you wait till PO4 starts to raise then take action a little already? Cos salifert PO4 test is not so sensitive one.

so fast you frag liao? You kanna CFS har? lol

You might like to test AquaZ carbon for leaching PO4, you'll be surprised by the results 5 months already still no need to change? Based on what do you say that?

If un-ID crab found in my tank, I'll remove it then throw into my FOWLR for my trigger's night snack.

I actually saw the 250W 14kk bulb fired up at ML's display tank. It is white. Then I came home saw my BLV10KK Se also white but it is not side by side comparsion. Ballast used also plays a part on the coloring.

Luminous polyps one only 2 pc. Ryan and mine are purple polyps one. Wow you also got the GEM? Remember to share with me hor.

*pengz*

For a moment i thought you start to harvest grapes in your tank

Did you measure the transformer to see if there is voltage coming out of it? The tunze dealer should be able to supply it to you. You got more than one 6000 right? Can swap and try. I got spare transform for 6000 lying ard (if I can find it), can sell to you at $50 but it will be non-refundable sales

The 14k is whiter as appears to the eyes which means it either has reduced red to orange in the spectrum or increased green to blue in the spectrum. In the first case means reduced PAR while in the latter means similar PAR. Or they could have produced a bulb with overall higher PAR than the 10kk too. Nobody knows until some reefers have test it and now we wait for Scarab's feedback. Scarab, you running the DE version right?

anywhere got nice and stable power brown?

I also wondering how pple print money to drive those German cars

stylo quite common one, no issues lar... next shipment sure have one. I thought you bring the colony over lol. Lost sleep thinking of that colony That's why better choice liao, pack and go lor.

~!@#$%^&*()_+ hands too slow...... I think the colony can do better with my D70 lol..

I want that monti lei lol

wow GEM in your tank.

2" large AT has no tear drop as it's not developed yet. Doubt got reefers want to buy even if they import it. Probably divers can't be bother to catch too.

I'll like to mention that while cleaner wrasse do not directly clean the fishes of ich but they do provide cleaning service which ease the fishes of stress and this could help the fish to fight the disease. Same goes for neon gobies too except they are better choice than cleaner wrasse.

Increase the size of the air valve or add an air valve if it is not present. That will solve your problem.

could be age of bulb. could be the ballast or could be your eyes tuned to 20kk lights so 10kk appears yellow. Need lights to bring out colors? Might as well run pure actinic.

You can't do much about your rocks in your tank now so the best thing you could do is to keep the PO4 level low. You can try use epoxy to cover that patch of HA too.