weileong

Yeah but bristleworm still dig 5" into the DSB but small one.

I oso not sure but I followed the advise of one super senior reefer here advise me to use 4" grade 0 as based then 1 or 2" grade one on top. Then add a mesh on the grade 0 sand to prevent things from digging into the DSB.

Compressor turns on and off too many times will reduce the lifespan of the compressor as well as consume more electricty I sort of agree with you too. That is why I set mine to HY 1.5 degs. Also if I let the compressor run too long like say 10 hrs at one go then confirm my house become suana liao, no need $$$ to go health center.

If going for 2ftx2ft and you want 6" DSB with grade 0 then need about 80kg.

I find all these review and discussion very useful. If not I will still be running the chiller with all those heat loads and end up paying electrical bills thru the nose. I now highly suspect the heat source is caused by my Atman AT-106 return pump that I am using. It is now off. In fact the Oceanfree 9000 pump using on my skimmer is also off so there is no submersed pump now. Only heat source is thru heat exchange with the ambient, 2x36W PL and the 1260 (run externally) which is running the chiller. With the 2 submersed pumps running at around 12 midnight this morning it takes abt 1 hrs 50mins for the temp to raise from 25.0 to 25.1degs. The temp today is very very cooling but then last night should be colder right? Right now it is already 2 hrs since the compressor has turn off and the temp is still 24.8 degs. Will need to note the total time it takes to raise 0.1degs and we'll know if I got the culprit. I know the oceanfree 9000 is not the main culprit because last night I tried to turn it off and it didn't make a difference.

if I am not wrong, RA680 don't show decimal place so if you set temp to 25 and HY as 1 degs then actually compressor will turn in at 26.1 degs and stop at 25.1 Please correct me if I am wrong, that is why usually they set HY as 2 degs so it cuts in at 27.1 and turns off at 25.1.

Hiya so many discussion To tell the truth my first chiller was a TECO TW6 which is the newer model of the RA680 which is also a 0.5hp. Temp is set at 25degs and HY set at 2 degs so compressor will turn on when temp reaches 28 degs and stops when it reach 25 degs. Due to the lack of decimal point, the compressor actually works between 28.1 and 25.9 so you're going for a drop of 2.2 degs. When the lights comes on the chiller had to run non-stop for the whole duration of the light period, it had only hold the temp at 27 degs, only after the lights off it has to run an additional 4 hrs before the temp reaches 25 degs. In this case I estimated the chiller to be running like 20 hrs a day. Based on this, it is not enough power right? Another factor is that my chiller is not in the cabinet and in fact the exhaust is pointing into the kitchen which has quite okie ventilation so it is not drawing in warm air. Based on this, should I buy another 0.5hp reef relief/titanium chiller?? So I got the 1.25hp Titanium and run time is around 10hrs which is half that of the TECO. Before that Dr Chill T-loan me one 0.5hp Reef Relief for one week. I did not really go measure it's run time like what I did for the 1.25hp titanium. However I do notice that it is able to pull the temp down to 25 degs (set point 25 degs, HY 2 degs) and run time is definately lesser than 20hrs. After few suggestion at the review thread. I've installed a ball valve for the 1260 and tune such that the temp difference between the input/output water from the chiller is 2degs. Before that it is 1degs. Raise the MH higher (5") from 3". All these made no difference to the chilling time. This morning I've done the following: I've shifted the my MH until it is 5" from the water surface, turn off my skimmer and return pump so now the only return is from the 1260 via the chiller. Will monitor the chilling time today but I seriously doubt it will cut the chilling time from 4 hrs down to 2 hrs during lights off. With all those reports of running time. I wonder if anyone really go log down the actual running time, meaning sit in front of the chiller and see it run, use video to record, webcam to photograph when the temp reading changes or just estimation??? Because the initital temp drop can take quite a while if you're returning back to the main tank.

pm you.

SL has the green BTA. Not sure still got stock or not. CF also got the BTA. However if you're looking for the red BTA then I don't see any for sale at the moment.

that's the small fern I referring to.

Ah... the 3rd photo one I also have in my ref. I've the large fern which is not in your picture but seems easy to crash. I need more of the 3rd photo the thin dark green hairy type and the small fern type. They seems to grow quite fast also.

so based on your experience with all the different type of algae which 3 types are you using? Best got photo to help me ID. I've quite a few types in my ref too.

Blenny, if you go help me pick some red grapes too hor. Then I go to your house collect

care to let me know where you buy it?

when I redo my piping I am going to put that oceanfree monster externally too. The MD55 will replace the 1260 and the AT-106. Then no more submersed pump already.

I am using 1260. Or I supposed to use a lower flow rate? I was told I need about 2000+ L/H for this chiller??? The other equipments in use are. 1. 2x36W PL for refigium on between 8pm and 12noon 2. 2x250W MH 3" from water surface on between 12noon and 10pm 3. 1x Oceanfree 9000 pump 80W for skimmer. 4. 1x AT-106 4500 L/H pump 85W as return pump. 5. 2x6010 tunze stream. 6. 11W UV sterlizer The other one is the 1260 but it is used externally while the other two pumps are in sump. Do you suggest I use a pump of around 1700L/H instead of 2400 L/H ?

I go back my company next week and check how much they selling but then it won't be cheap Good thing is when spoilt I repair myself.

My initial inquiry to Dr Chill was for a 1.25hp and Dr Chill say he normally recommended for 4ft is 0.5hp is more than enuff to cool a 4ft. He also told me that a 1.25hp will be much overspecs for a 4ft. I want to be safe so went for the overspecs one cos before that I had a TW6 and it was working very hard on my tank so didn't want another 0.5hp chiller which will not make any sense. After I actually measured the total run time of the chiller, it is according to what I've estimated by didn't realise it still requires abt 4hr to chill down 1.6degs cos seems like everywhere you go pple tell you their chiller run like 1 hrs can chill down 2 degs and that was the impression I got. However with all the 3 chiller (to-date including a 0.5hp reef relief) I used no such things happen on my tank. But as some brothers has pointed out my lights are 3" from my water surface and that might has caused the excessive heat. According to the performance of the 1.25hp titanium chiller, it is more than enuff for my tank. The 0.5hp reef relief also enuff. The TW6 also in a sense barely enuff. How I determine enuff is that it can reach and maintain at the setpoint you want without running 24hrs a day.

bro, how much did that burn your pocket? Cos I also want to buy heheh

no lar, I meant if you got time just stand 1 min in front of that thermometer and see if the temp displayed goes up and down like that.

I am no big fan of toyota so sorry for the error so now I learn something new, will remember it. Now honda also into the I-VTEC so the days of poor low end torque are gone. If you look at the current civic also not made for high BHP. Engine also design for good low end torque and the VTEC is made for fuel savings too. Don't cheong with corolla? Seems like got quite a few like to "poke" pple's backside on the rd and especially when the see honda car. But those are the blacksheeps and also got honda drivers do that too.

yours accurate or not? in the sense temp dun anyhow jump one?

Can you PM me the price pls. Will go PR to see. Else can buy from farnell those lab grade ones but makes no sense for my fish tank.

VVTI works by varying the valve timing. That is when to open/close the intake valve relative to engine RPM, load etc. The VVTI works only for intake valve only VVTI is alway active and nothing such as when to activate it like in the VTEC engines. The advantage of the VVTI is to help in the toque curve VTEC stands for Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control. It uses two sets of camshaft profiles, one for low/mid-range rpm and one for high rpm operation. At a pre-determined rpm it will switch over to the other profile to increase peak horsepower and improve torque. You can both hear and feel the change when the VTEC "kicks in" at higher rpm levels to improve performance. VTEC does not offer continuously variable valve timing like the VVTI but it can make the most of high rpm operation while still providing solid driveability at lower rpm levels. That is why those honda Civic can rev to as high as 9000rpm Toyota also have something called the VVTI-L used in the celica which combines both VTEC and VVTI. Honda has the I-VTEC which is basically the same combo too. I cheong on NS highway before and hit 210km/h with my 7th gen civic

yes going, must get the ricodia