weileong

the bigger bottles are slightly cheaper.

cool... sounds like autonomous cruise missle

Come come Whatever you do, you'll need to allow the probe to be removed easily cos the ph controller needs to be calibrated on a monthly basis.

Not really, I think if really 4 bubbles/sec then the excess CO2 will collect on top of the CR. Moreover my effluent drips into my PS so that should help a bit with the ph. I set my pH controller to cut the CO2 off when the pH of the main tank drops to 7.9 so that is another safety measure.

Joe, Don't worry too much. BTW the worksmanship for your CR is first class. I think it's going to last me a long time. I think after the post with typo, I had another one that mentioned 0.25 bubbles/sec. I already tested the ph,Ca,kh of the effluent from the CR this afternoon. Posted in another thread in the equipment reviews. Currently CO2 = 1 bubble every 7sec Effluent = 1 drop/sec Effluent readings as follows: pH 6.64 kh = 54 dkh (measured 3 times to confirm). Ca = 720ppm kh and Ca done with salifert test kit in 1/2 res pH with my dennerle pH controller, 2 points calibrated before reading. My main tank reading. pH 8.38 kh = 9.6 dkh Ca = 420 ppm

No actinic cos open top tank, didn't want to many stuffs up there, ended up too messy. The ends are illuminated quite well with the 2x250W MH. No complains on that. The 150W MH will probably just run for 4 hrs a day. Don't want a sudden blackout which always shock my yellow tang. That was my intention and also at weekends I'll just run the 150W longer in the evening so I get to enjoy viewing the tank longer at night.

Now I realise my typo! I meant to say one bubble every 4 secs

Yes, my light fixture comes with 2x250W and 1x150W. Originally it came only with 2x250W and I modify and added 1x150W in it. You can get the same from X-glare so no modification is necessary. If you want to do modification on MH fixture becareful and use only heat resistance wires and connectors. Else the normal wires might melt/turn brittle due to the heat.

me But cannot confirm the time. Probably afternoon.

BLV 150W marine blue installed. This turns on one hr before and after my 2x250W BLV 10kk. Now my yellow tang don't go crazy after the lights goes off. The coral also color up better.

I am using the larger unit. Got the latest reading. CO2 = 1 bubble every 7sec Effluent = 1 drop/sec Effluent readings as follows: pH 6.64 kh = 54 dkh Ca = 720ppm kh and Ca done with salifert test kit in 1/2 res pH with my dennerle pH controller, 2 points calibrated before reading. My main tank reading. pH 8.38 kh = 9.6 dkh Ca = 420 ppm Same like you bro Fuel, I had problem holding the kh at 10 before the CR. Always like to drop to 6-7. Now no more problem and my tank pH also remains between 8.2 to 8.4 for a 24 hrs period.

Cos before that was 1 bubble/sec so I reduce down to 0.25 bubble/sec to tweak the CR. I am still tweaking my CR Ah.... thanks for the tips, I will drop it to 0.1 bubble/sec. Going to one thousand, two thousand, three thousand...... ten thousand again, wait my wife tot I gone mad, counting in front of the cabinet ...... Tweak already, now 0.1 bubble/sec heheheh. I wouldn't have imagine if I could get this bubbling rate with my koya valve even if I spend 24 hrs tweaking it.

I think even for SS will corrode if you use it to control the effluent rate. Better use a teflon one.

Close-in. Mine is a little different from yours, from the same series but different model. Cos using 6mm telfon tubing instead of 1/4" also mine is full SS so more $$$ hiak...

Bought this new toy today. Before this had to tweak the bubbling in my CR until I went crazy. Now very easy with this metering valve, set at 4 bubbles/sec.

add rowaphos.

wow you bought this cute bugger I actually beo it for quite sometime but never know Thomas will sell it. Next time must pester him

wow so interesting! I supposed when you warn me not to disturb them you meant that the part that drops off will rot and pollute the water right? Very interesting...

Discovered my tank has some bryopsis on the LR. Small patches here and there. Took them out for scrapping yesterday. Super tough work. I think there must be some others in some corners that I cannot see. Also there is a few small patches on the base rock which will be almost impossible to remove unless I tear the rock work apart. Was thinking any other alternative ways to deal with it? Biological means => lettuce Nutribranch, anyone saw any for sale? How big are they actually, if I know the size then easier to identify at LFS and can buy. Water parameter, keeping good water parameters. Use epoxy and cover the patches, coraline algae will grown over the epoxy soon and won't be visible anymore. I dare not pull them out for fear they will spread everywhere.

that's great news! Will put them into my reef this evening. They must be the fastest moving snails I've come across.

Shell is circled in red.

another one, came with my coral.

please help to ID this snail. Not sure if reef safe or not. Has a small shell and moves very fast.

I think it's the same senior reefer that I had been bugging him for information on PVC pipings Really grateful for their valuable advise.

give me the exact model then I can go call and order