weileong

A bare tank with some hang on filter for biological filtration would be good. Give you step by step guide on what I did. 1. The salinity must be checked at least once a day during the treatment. You may use Chemical filters such as carbon and Poly Filter during hyposalinity treatment. 2. Alkalinity and pH tend to fall in low salinity saltwater. Check these parameters daily and add a kH buffer as necessary to maintain the pH between 8.1 and 8.3. A kH of 10 dkh will work well. 3. Perform two water changes per day for two days, reducing the salinity by about 5ppt per water change. 4. Maintaining the salinity at 16ppt, 14ppt would be better to allow for fluctuation due to evaporation. Salinity should be checked with a refractometer, avoid swing arm type hydrometer which is not accurate for this purpose. 5. Hyposalinity treatment should continue for a minimum of three weeks (recommended 6 weeks or more) after the therapeutic salinity level has been reached. Hyposalinity does not target the "free-swimming" or theront stage. Hyposalinity therapy works by interrupting the life cycle at the tomont stage. Tomonts are destroyed by hyposaline conditions, thus preventing re-infection. 6. In case at any moment of time the salinity is allowed to raise above 16ppt then you will have to start all over again on step 5. 7. After the treatment is over, take caution by raising the salinity very slowly, a good recomendation would be 2.5ppt once every 2 days until you reach a full seawater level of 35ppt. Good luck.

Yours must be a giant tank then

I tell you what happened. I actually got addicted keeping fish in my quarantine tub Feed that way looking downwards very shiok Then because you look from top can monitor how fat are the tangs. Down side is that I can't really monitor if the new fish have ich cos i can't see their body clearly.

You can remove your UV once your tank is fishless. Even now in my 4ft I have turned off my UV liao. 6 weeks should be enough but if you KS then keep it fishless for 8 weeks Good luck, it's troublesome but well worth the extra effort to quarantine your fishes before introduction.

get 2 or 3 urchin to finish those damn coraline

Remember to cycle the tank properly first. Skimmer won't work at 14ppt so you need a biological filter and frequent water changes.

scrub scrub scrub.

wow got live update one Prata is sold and collect. Thread closed. Thanks for all the interest and PM.

inverts (shrimps, worms, etc, anything that moves and not fish) are okie to leave in your main tank. Happy catching your fish

You will need a min of 6 weeks fishless in order to kill the ich. All your fishes if possible will need to go to the quaratine tank. If you do not have lots of corals then why not remove the corals & inverts and house them elsewhere for 6 weeks to kill any ich parasite on it then perform hyposalinity in your main tank, in this way you don't disturb your fishes. In your quaratine tank you can either dose copper or perform hyposalinity (reduce SG to 1.009 or 14ppt.) You fish will need to stay there for 6 weeks or longer. I feel that hypo is easier to apply. You'll have to watch the pH as in 50% saltwater the ph will crash easily so you can raise the kh to 10 to prevent that.

There are a few reefers here using the 1/2hp commerical unit and all have no problem cooling down their reef tank. Some of them running 6x2.5x2.5 reef tank. To solve your problem, you can always put the chiller output directly into your main tank instead of the sump.

Yes pls.... can collect anytime from NOW.

Clearing some space. Need to sell off ASAP. Prata as shown in photo. Asking for $20. Self-collection in Haig Road, priority given to anyone that can collect this evening.

The aquarium chillers.

specs sheet of the artica commerical unit.

Then you need to know what's the heat input into your water. The chiller should remove heat faster than the input. Quite difficult to calculate actually. Here's the specs for the dailea/artica 1/2hp commerical unit. Model: DA-500B Cooling capacity: 1170W (1hp = 746W so 1170W = 1.56hp ) compressor: 0.5hp Fan Motor: 16W weight: 25kg size: 21"x14"x15"(WXDXH) My chiller pump after head lost around 2400 l/h (600 gph) and I measuring a Delta-T of around 2 degs C(ard 3.6 deg F) Which works out to be 3.6 x 600 x 8.3 = 17928 BTU = 1.49 hp. So the manufacturer's claim is quite accurate So you want to know how good is your chiller then go measure the Delta-T

You guys misunderstand already. Delta-T is the different in the temp of the water going into the heat exchanger and coming out of the heat exchanger. So in short, you use a good thermometer to measure the temp of the water going into the chiller and coming out of the chiller you should get the Delta-T. To know the actual flow rate of the pump you have to take into account the head lost as well. Best to use a big tank or tub with known volume to roughly calculate it.

To measure the real cooling power of a chiller. Delta-T = Chiller inlet temp (deg F) - Chiller outlet temp (deg F) BTU = Delta-T x water flow in gph x 8.3 one hp = 12,000 BTU So you can figure out the rating and no one can bullshit you pls correct me if I am wrong.

648 means 6" dia body and 48 tall

ammonia? Your 648 buy for fun one is it?

For these type of difficult to remove LR, use epoxy to cover the hole that the idiot goes in

This can be avoid one... your fault lah lol.

This is about the same performance with my 1/2hp artica commerical chiller. My tank is 4x2x2.5 (with 6" DSB) technically should be 4x2x2 sump is 3x1.5x1.5 (abt 40% filled). Chiller driven from sump to main tank with resun MD40. lights 2x250W You can put your hands to feel the water coming out from the chiller at such flow rate and feel that it is chilling.

No need so troublesome, just pour high kH solution into the hole and it will jump out

The deltec amount is like double that of those commerical ones.