weileong

Close in of the needle valve. Brand Hayward, price $68++ Heng ah no need to change to deltec CR

Now with the new needle valve. The tubings are a little untidy as the wrong fittings were used initially. But would make do for the time being. Hidden in the cabinet anyway

After months of leakage and choking from my CR, difficulty in tuning etc I replaced the cheapo leaking ball valve with a needle valve today. Here's the photo of the original ball valve. Look at the red arrow.

ya I hate them... every few weeks had to scrape them off the front glass

What I think is that it is better to err on the side of caution. Even the fishes from some of the "high end" farms carry ich parasites but not showing it. It also depends if your main tank can take the hyposalinity treatment, if there is no corals or inverts then I guess just throw in no harm but if yours is a reef tank then wouldn't that little extra effort to quarantine the fish (at the same time apply hyposalinity treatment) be a safer bet? I got a blue face abt 2 weeks ago and not showing ich so I'm going to throw it into my FOWLR and if ich outbreak then I'll drop the salinity there again for 8 weeks.

One more day to go Raising salinity tomorrow

Can be solved by a check valve. For me I do not use the cotton, find that it cleans better also when I slightly "push" the handle downwards... the vortex effect will cause the media to be clean very well. I do not have problem with the smaller zeolites dropping down as the pump action with the pump running would push the smaller pieces toward the top of the reactor after a few pumping.

This is a technical forum at least where the SPS and advanced reefkeepers forum in SRC is concerned, please post only relevant facts with hard data to support your points and not just "suggestions". If suggestions then you must state it clearly in the first place so reefers will not be misleaded However like I mentioned in my previous post, there should be no different at all. Sorry for the moderators but can't help it

With an overflow box and wave make the water surface already "broken" and the organics floating on the surface will be removed by the overflow and get skimmed out. Like I said before adding airstone has more disadvantages than advantages as the air exchange is already provided by the skimmer. Unless you are talking abt having a 4x4x2 reef but with a skimmer that is smaller than a weipro 2013 in terms of size Worst of all you get bubbles flying around in your tank. Oh unless you tank has little to no water movement and lack of skimming so I can see what you need to add air bubbles to your tank. You use those "louhan" type air stones the bubbles are also big and that has much lesser surface area for oxygen exchange, I really do not see much advantage in doing that unless you had made some comparison before like using a TOC meter to measure the amount of organics in your tank Or using a DO meter to actually measure the oxygen levels in your tank or using an ORP meter to measure the state of health of your tank. Other wise your bubbling of big bubbles in the tank does not make much sense to me.

Sorry just some question regarding your post. First you said adding an air stone to your DSB then you said adding oxygen to your tank via air stone. So which one do you meant? If the former then I guess this is simply lack of common sense, you are going to stirr up the sandbed causing the tank water to turn cloudy and that will stress your LS. If you meant bubbling air via an air stone then will add lots of micro bubbles to your tank. This is not necessary as a skimmer would have already provide for the necessary gas exchange. Ozone oxidize organics directly whereas saturation with oxygen is more of a passive method. They are different. When ozone "breaks-down" (like what you called it) into oxygen, it has already oxidize and removed the organics and at the same time raise the ORP in your tank.

I could speak for a proper zeovit reactor as I had used the zeolites in a mesh bag in my sump, in a normal FR as well as a DIY zeovit reactor with handle to pump the media. I think the advantage of a proper reactor can be only seen after you used it. When the pump the handle up and down the zeolites will be going up and down but the stones will be turning as they goes up and down, the effects can be seen by temporary cloudiness of the tank water and more output from my skimmer almost immediately after cleaning of the media. I do not see this effect when I used the filter bag or regular FR. IMHO this shows that a proper reactor can clean the media better, you can also control the flow rate thru the reactor and it is possible to interval the reactor leading to higher rates of nutrient reduction. By higher reduction of PO4, NO3 can be reduced faster Just a side note, my softies are 2-3x the size now compared to before the use of zeovit. If the amount of zeolites used is correct then there is no reason to increase that amount as you risk RTN on your SPS. To battle the algae I guess more zeostart should be dose and that's if the food7/bak dosage is already at the max recommend (2 drops/100ml) Actually deepblue did not provide more info like how the amount of zeolites being use, his tank volume and how much stuffs he is dosing so a bit difficult to troubleshoot.

but your reactor cannot interval unless you sump water level is high enuff to cover the zeolites when the pump is turn off But for $20 cannot complain. DB what are you waiting for?

There is a difference one.. especially when compared to when I was using the zeolite in a regular FR vs this reactor with a handle for pumping the media. With this reactor when I pump the media, the water in the main tank will turn slightly cloudy as the mulm are released from the surface of the zeolites... maybe you might consider kneading the filter bag on a daily basis... might help too.

for max effects they recommend to house the zeolites in a reactor with flow rates of around 400 litres per hr for 1000l of media. Any higher than that then you change out period will be shorter, any lower then the effect won't be there. They also recommend the media be cleaned at least once a day.

I will contact everyone soon according to the order the PM was received. Please be patience.... Good things only happen slowly

Share share the source lei.....

age doesn't really matter in this instance. Just look at the 'tang police'; younger than some boastful JC kid and yet so much more humble and knowledgeable. Indeed a raw diamond...you bet. Poo.......

share share hor

Thanks for all the PM. My PM box going to explode I think. I have not gone thru all the PM yet but someone has offered $300 for the whole colony. Don't think I want to be selfish by selling this rare zoo for money. I rather frag and share it with everyone FYI, the photo is about one month ago, now the colony has completely filled the whole rocks and has started to overtake the rics, that is why I am fragging it and it measures ard 5x4" in size.

2 days more to go before my whitecheek complete it's course of 8 weeks of hyposalinity treatment Will be raising the salinity by 5ppm per day from Thur onwards.

Will be fragging the zoos as it is overgrown now and giving away some frags. Interested pls PM me. BTW Doggies need not apply

You talking about old tank syndrome? Like using kalkwasser to solve PO4 problem instead of exporting the PO4 you binned it into your system. This pooled PO4 will eventually leach back into your system. This is like a time bomb. Similar to having detrius collected at the bottom of your refigium as you've said. Phosphate leech & algae blooms are caused by insufficient skimming + insufficient water movement so all the detrius that settled down in those blind spots eventually leads to high nutrients in your reef.

Yes still using but in mesh bag

Another shot today.

At enjoying some treatment from the DR.