weileong

Bro surfedelic, Thanks for the reminder, I was having the impression that the bracking should be on the baffle at the rear of the tank, instead of having it on the rear panel. I guess I'll probably have to go with 7" width for the overflow as my current tank or stick to 5" and use 15mm or 19mm for the rear panel without bracing. The main purpose of starting this thread is to let everyone read what I have in mind so I will not make any stupid mistakes *again*. Bro diabolus, the power consumption should not be too much higher than what I am having now. The main difference is additional of the following: MD40R - 98W @ 0 ft head (actually power drawn should be lesser as the chiller will be remote). additional tunze 6100 - 48W (actual power drawn is also lesser as it is in pulse mode) Wavebox, about 65W ? (no too sure about that, but once again the flow is reduced at night so also not 100% full consumption) Additional of 100W MH so probably chiller run time is slightly longer too. My guess is less than $50 increase in monthly electrical bills.

Seriously this type of flow are not as strong as some of you guys imagine cos it is strong but widespread flow from the tunze. But sometimes it's hard to fault you guys as you probably runs your reef tanks with lower flows. I currently run my reef with 3x6100 (40% - 100% pulse mode every 7 sec) and 12,000 l/h RD (abt 8000 l/h after head lost) and the fishes behave normally and swim with ease

Science Center reef tank at Omni threatre building tear down liao

I'm afraid the sump might not be able to handle the type of flow. With 12,000 + 10,000 l/h sump turn over My new sump will be designed to kill all micro bubbles w/o using any sponge, the actual designed will be revealed at a later stage.

Currently 6100 - 3x12,000 = 36,000 l/h Red Dragon return abt 8000 l/h The new tank is larger so the turn over is probably about the same We need strong indirect flow

Now I running TS36, I feel the current is still not so strong as there is some dead spots especially near the edges of the tank, hopefully with the wavebox that should be solved.

The new tank will use a 5" wide overflow that runs along the length of the tank so the effective width becomes 31". There will be no sandbed so it is a true bare bottom system. Main overflow pipe is 2x40mm modified dunso with 2x25mm open end pipe as backup. Main return pump will be 12,000 l/h Red Dragon split into 2x32mm return pipe. No close loop pumps will be used. One of the split outlet will be used to drive my 1/2hp artical commerial chiller. Another 1/2hp artica will be driven via a Iwaki MD40R as backup chiller via a separate electrical loop in case the main return pump or the main chiller breaks down or stop running down to power trip. A tunze Wavebox + TS48 (4x6100 stream) will create the required water movements in the reef tank. The LR stucture will be raised by a platform that the material used has not been decided yet. Two tunze 6060 will be install one at each corner to create water movement inside the LR structure so that no nutrients will built up.

Cannot tahan the crappy DSB That is giant source of nutrients slowly leaching out.

After 15 months with my current 4(L)x2(W)x2.5(H)ft tank and seeing the limitation with the setup. I have decided to tear it down and restart with a brand new tank. The upgrade shall be gradual and consist of a few phrases. This are done with experiences that other reefers had so your mistake is what I gain Phrase one - To change out the Aqualight 2x250W BLV10kk + 1x150W BLV 20kk lighting to 3x250W BLV10kk (individual pendants) with 4x54W T5. If the 4x54 is insufficient to balance out the yellowish color of the BLV then more tubes shall be added. The plan is to change out the Aqualight to the new pendants (minus the T5) with the old 4ft tank in place. This shall ease the amount of work needed when the new tank has arrived. Phrase two - New LR of suitable shape and sizes will be bought and then cycled with zeovit system in a separate tub. This will ensure no nutrients built up when the LR are eventually placed into the new tank. Phrase two will last about a month or longer. Phrase three - This is the most shiong part of the upgrade as usual. In prepartion of for the arrival of the new tank. The old tank will be tear down few hrs before the arrival of the new tank and SPS will be placed into a temporary holding tub. Fishes will be placed into another separate tub. Unwanted fishes will be removed and with the new reef which is focused mainly on SPS, I will only keep the Achilles and the dwarf angels and other misc small fishes like my pair of tomato clown and six line wrasse. The old tank will be removed and the new tank takes it's placed. The fittings and piping would be installed on the new tank and sump. Old saltwater from the old tank will be used to fill the new tank. The LR which are fully cycled by now would be added. The LR would then be returned to the new tank gradually, the fishes first followed by the SPS.

If you do get another clown, get a small one so at least you're sure it is not matured yet so more chance for them to cross.

Hey, didn't you know in another forum got pple promoting tank that don't need water-change with some "secrets" methods. Yet their tank and LS looks like "****"

When my pair of tomato are preparing to spawn, I've seen the female digging up a crater on my sandbed. But yours is a lone ranger If you get her a mate probably takes at least 8months or longer before they'll start spawning.

You dunno his real name is Raymond Koh ?

Oh boy.. I love that Hyacinthus in the center. I did some color correction on your photo.

I was thinking about this, For a matured tank, the zeovit will slowly kick in and the SPS growth and coloring only starts in late stage 2 (which takes anything from a few months or longer after starting zeovit, if you have a DSB then it takes much longer) onwards when most of the stored nutrients are exhausted. This can be seen by the lowered dosage of zeo addictives that is required. In this case probably if we start off a new bare bottom tank with low bioload, over skimming with big skimmer tuned to wet skimmate and following the basic maintenance routine like weekly water changes, keeping parameters close of NSW levels. Keeping the tank clean and no accumulated waste to break down, will we be able to achieve a low nutrient enviroment? The answer is probably yes. So probably what I am going to do is to tear my current tank down and restart with a BB one in a few months time when my work schedule is not so tight Will only have my AT and those drawf angels in the tank. Using 400W 6.5kk saki + 2x250W BLV 20kk. Isn't it a good idea?

As you progress into stage 3, the zeo dosage required gets lesser and the change out period for the zeolites (rocks) can be extended up to 12 weeks. If you have a proper reactor and know the proper technique to clean the zeolites then it is not difficult. They highly recommend daily cleaning for maximum effects but once a week is alright too. Like andy said, to some pple zeovit is poisonous and they hate it to the core, from some of the post you can sense it You ask me? then I tell you definately worth the effort. Undetectable NO3 and PO4 w/o using Rowaphos. No need to use the messy DSB that create so much problem. If you read the guide on Zeovit properly, you would have know that they do not stress on water quality alone, they still recommend on low bioload, controlled feeding, sufficient lights and flow which are all basics of having a successful SPS reef tank. For those that really overdose till their corals die, I think they do not even look at their corals at all. There are tell tale signs that you've overdose the zeo and yet if no corrective actions are taken to reduce the dose then surely the continued overdose will kill all those corals

Tang police sleeping is it?

What are the prisoners so far? List them down

Since you already added the powerhead so now just wait for the skimmer to kick in again, might take a few days or longer, be paitent.

Sure or not? lol... when they grow larger I'll frag for you.

Another CMI corner

green with blue tips.

Walt smith $20 ex-"brown-out" monti with many snails in it. Managed to nuke away 50% of them, will resume nuking action soon

Pink birdnest.

Still_blue... wow pink polys with blue body Frag Frag Frag..... Scarab.... time to queue up at your door, heheheh. I'm going to ban myself from this thread already, too many goodies out there, at night cannot sleep cos keep thinking of them.