weileong

I had a hard battle with PO4 few months ago, the PO4 shot up after I removed my Rowapohs when I started zeovit. Like you I found one of the source of PO4 coming from the carbon so I went around testing those carbon by soaking them in DI/RO (verifed first to have undetectable PO4) for 24hrs then measuring the DI/RO water. I was using rowacarbon and now zeovit carbon (avaliable from Ocean planet) and both tested for undetectable PO4 in the RO/DI water. Give you an example, a certain brand from German, I soak 700ml which is the whole small box into 3 litres of RO/DI, after 24hrs the PO4 meter reads 0.1ppm, changed water and soak 24hrs and retest and still 0.1ppm. You can imagine how much PO4 is leached out A bit another source of PO4 was from my DSB, after four or five times cleaning the sandbed PO4 has dropped from an all time high of 0.22ppm down to 0.02ppm.

My hyacinthus frag. The blue tips seems like slowly coming back after I lowered the lights. DB if you wanna a frag to test your water you know where to collect hor Scarab, you sure your rainbow monti is not stacked with 3 different colors one? lol But really very chio

3000kbps one already automatically upgraded to 6500kbps liap

So far tested a few popular brands on the market and 2 not so popular (due to the $$$) brands leaches undetectable PO4. 1. Rowacarbon. 2. Zeovit carbon These are $$$$ unfortuntely.

but....... still need to say. You guys can choose the type of SPS, can buy brown SPS and wait for color up For me, got color I am happy liao lol.... no chance to choose ah

Yes that is correct I just use rowalith and nothing else, no dosing of addictives etc. I still check the kH & Ca and Mg once a week just to play safe. One thing to note is I am running a very high CR for my tank size. I am not sure if running the CR at near it's max capacity affects the effluent parameters or not. Another thing is if you want to know if something is good or not then ask the "ex" user of that thing as the reefer currently using that product might not have found the problem yet whereas those that switch over to other product might have already found out the cons.

That is correct, you'll see the level of the media slowly dropping and you just top up accordingly.

Only the resun-MD series and iwaki MD series must be used out of sump

Hassle for you but next to impossible for me. Probably need to employ a OSIM mermaid

Scarab, been using the rowalith for about 2-3 months if memory serves well. So far kH 7 dkh, Ca 430ppm and Mg 1390ppm holding well. Been montoring for the past few weeks and they remain stable. What I like about the rowalith is that you do not need to pour out the old media like when using ARM. We just need to top up the rowalith. My CR will weight more than 35kg when fully filled so it will be impossible to change the media.

I using rowalith C. The media are fine like #1 sand, not sure if changing to that will give you better results due to the larger contact surface or not. Maybe with the larger contact surface you can run a higher effluent flow?

Resun MD series only have MD40 and MD55 as far as I know, didn't know they came out with the MX70 series so fast.... Anyway the iwaki MD55 and MD40 are pretty quite too but like bro roidan said they got the sound from the fan which can be noisy to some reefers.

Bro, There are other factors too. You did not mention how long it took your Ca to climb from 420 to 500ppm so I assume it takes some times like a few weeks or months. One factor could be caused by the salt you are using, during water change this changes the kH and Ca reading and end up it raises the Ca value. It could also be caused by corals taking in Mg and Sr in place of Ca when they built their skeleton. CaCO3 requires 1 meg/L for every 20ppm of Ca and the Ca is substituted by Mg and Sr the actual demand for Ca is lower. It can also be caused by the nitrogen cycle when NO3 is formed. Alk is lost during the progress and when you perform a water change you removed the NO3 and those removed NO3 has no chance to be reduced back to N2 and have the Alk released from them. So your situation could be due to one or combo of reasons from above.

bro, did you test the effluent when you up the bubble count? Maybe at lower bubble count the CR already saturated and unable to produce higher kH and Ca in the effluent so the additional CO2 just does nothing but cause low pH in your tank.

If you could push your Ca to 430ppm then your kH will be ard 9.3 which is better. Your CR is the same as my ex CR. In my tank (after I switched to BLV10kk) it could not hold my parameters and I always need to boost up the kH with addicitives. kH always drop from 7 to high 5 after 2-3 days.

Let's make it step by step. 1. Tune your effluent flow to be stable, eg 2-3litres/hr. 2. Stable CO2 count like one bubble/sec. 3. Measure your kH and play with the pH controller setpoint so the kH holds stable after 24hrs (always measure the kH the same time of the day). A pH controller does helps a lot. I prefer to keep the effluent stable but lower the chamber pH so the effluent kH and Ca is higher. But do watch the pH in case it gets so low that your media turn into mud. Basically the PITA is tunning the effluent flow, have you tried to measure the actual effluent flow rate and see how much it changes on a day to day basic? Once the effluent is stable then life is easy.

Riot, me no expert but relating my limited experience. I run my reef kH at 7, Ca 430ppm and Mg stays ard 1390ppm (last measured on sunday). There is a range of pH where the media will dissolve (lower pH media dissolve better and higher pH media dissolve lesseR). We are talking abt total amount of kH and Ca (since these 2 parameters are possible to measure). The other factors are the effluent flow and CO2 bubble count and these 2 factors controls the pH in the main chamber. For me I fixed the rate of my effluent to abt 4 l/h and then control the main chamber pH (via the pH controller) and adjust until the kH holds stable. My CR running rowalith C and it is recommend to run the pH between 6.2 to 6.5, for me my pH setpoint is 6.48 which holes my parameters stable. If my Calcium consumption rate in my reef increase then I just lower the pH in the main chamber. A CR supplies kH and Ca in the ratio of 1 meg/l (2.8dkh) to 20ppm Ca. At times it might seems that the Ca is fairly stable and kH keeps dropping. But in actual fact the CR is not supplying sufficient kH and Ca and you need to increase the effluent flow but at the same time increase the CO2 bubble count to hold the same pH or lower the pH in the CR chamber providing the pH is not already too low. Another issue I found is that it is difficult to keep the effluent rate stable for a long time especially if we Tee off the effluent feed from our return pump, that is why I tune my effluent flow to 4 l/h so that effluent is more steady. Until my metering pump arrives I'll have to monitor the kH on a weekly basis. Without a stable effluent flow, how to tune the CR properly? Same goes for CO2 bubble count too

Scarab, what's the kH reading you're getting and Ca reading you're getting. Maybe the CR is too small.

Bro Riot, You can refer to this thread where I posted part of the Tunze manual. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...=0entry339700

Do this and it'll be what you want. Plug pump 1 into Slot A and pump 2 into Slot C. Slot A and B is channel 1 and slot C and D are on channel 2. (From Left to Right). Set channel A top knob to 30% and bottom knob to 100% Set channel B top knob to 100% and bottom knob to 30% Set the pulse knob to max clockwise (the actual duration I cannot remember) Set mode selector to center (if i remember correctly as that is for pulse operation) Interval selector is used only when you have at least 3 tunze plug in. mode selector: top is tidal mode. middle pulse mode. bottom sequential

Upcoming still 4ft. Now the questions is 250W 6.5kk + 250W 20kk higher PAR or 400W 10kk or 400W 20kk higher PAR? based on the wattage alone I think 250W combo is better.

Just nice for three of us lol...

I don't mind non-green stags too Non-orange, non-green monti also okie. Any digitata also welcome lol.

Don't worry, heard from my friend relax relax one no call you go cheong mountain

That one I got 3 types.... anytime ah... bring your efflo frag along hor