weileong

2 digitata frag from Jim Has since colored up.

A. Loripes

Wow looks pinkish purple, chio lei.

Yeap, this is the one, ah now the photo is much better, you should redo your whole tank shot

The two colonys on the left side hill of the photos aren't they hyanchitus? Can see they are nice only the photo a little underexposed.

got lah, if you overdose sugar then in the long run you might get diabetes... Alfa, didn't know there is a stage 20 in zeovit, someone invented that recently?? But very very nice photos of your hyanchitus from the photo of your tank last nice Danny, zeostart does more than just bringing down N & P, continued dosing (at the right amount) in conjunction with AAHC and with zeostart2 gives you metallic colored acros while zeostart1 gives pastel colored acros.

*fainted* lol.

Hey "Danny" keep us posted on the outcome. A bit regretted you could not reply to some of my queries

Keep us posted on your results You don't have to buy the entire range of zeovit products. Just the basic 4 will be fine. However you have a doubt now why zeovit is not working for you that's why I thought you're not using the full product and not getting the full benefit of zeovit. You got TOTM with tanks running DSB and BB too and all other ways of reefing. Why are there success and failure? If you look beyond that, you'll realise one word and that is "stability" Another advise for you, how are you going to control your dosage? By looking at color of SPS? or waiting for algae to die off?

Same like you, I also thought low low PO4 is very good but end up I prove myself wrong.

Corrected for? IMO when PO4 was 0.00 with hanna, my SPS turns too pale Only when I raised it to 0.01 then the colors came back.

Purpose of zeostart is to speed up nutrients reduction. I am not sure what "Marc Weiss bacteria" is about but zeostart is not bacterial. Zeobak is the bacterial strains. Zeostart is powerful stuffs for nutrients reduction, with proper and correct dosage we see a reduction in NO3 and PO4. Based on my experience, coloration of SPS can be directly based on concentration of PO4. The lower the PO4 the better the coloration provided the PO4 is not too low and that means not lower than 0.01 to 0.02ppm with hanna. Algae growing from LR could be caused by LR still leaching nutrients. Eventually the algae will die off. This could happen if your nutrients levels were high before. Are you running a DSB? Maybe the DSB not properly managed too and still leaching out nutrients. What is the source of water you're using for water change? Sugar basically does the basic stuff of reducing N and P only but zeovit does more provided you follow the basic properly. If I were you I would be using all zeovit stuffs rather than some alternatives. At least with this when there is problem I won't be wondering what is causing that. You might like to run your zeovit reactor on a 3hr on 3hr off basis as that will help for more balanced nutrient reduction.

IMHO I wouldn't want to dose sugar as that is also carbon source. It is like dosing a lot of zeostart at one go. I noticed you are not using zeostart at all? You might like to consider using it now. Are you running the zeoliths in a reactor? In my limited experience with zeovit for 1yrs, even at PO4 of 0.06ppm (hanna) my SPS are still showing color but when I lowered the PO4 down to 0.01 the colors are better as the tissues are lighter in color due to the lower zoox density. In your friend's tank, the NO3 is 50ppm and that certainly cause some stress to the LS and when the NO3 is reduced the LS response better as they are now less stressed. Before you do the un-thinkable stunt of dosing sugar, do you know your NO3 and PO4 reading now?

Zeovit itself reduces N & P already and zeofood and start1/2 are the carbon source so why do you want to add sugar? You probably end up overdosing and crash your tank. How long have you been running zeovit and dosage like?

That's why zeovit has the zeobak so you dose this on a regular basis to restore the bacterial strain.

Hmmm..... who hiding bad stuffs? Example like those that never post photo of their tank? Big and FAT stomach quite misleading too. If the fish strong I dunno why they get suck into the tunze. You using 6100? Tonight I start training my fishes to read "out of bound" liao I know a lot of SPS reefers sacrifice their fish by not feeding them in an attempt to reduce the nutrients and they end up with paper thin fishes. You just go thru the photos posted in SRC sure can see these type of paper thin fishes one where they got relatively big and fat stomach but super thin (as thin as paper) body.

I already posted what.... see my signature lol. post yours lar.... Sorry I off-topic already. Don't come here tok w/o posting hor.

Didn't know you train your fishes to read

Another human error? Or fish error? swim too near tunze.

The YT is weak in the first place and probably due to insufficient food that's why kanna sucked.

No LFS carry hanna, go hanna singapore and get it. Can check with yellowpages.

As Mins on the effects & also ask some of the reefers who had given up on zeovit then you know already. Bacterial we can't see but SPS we can see

Those sugar, volka, alcohol are bacterial base. Our tanks are carbon limited so introducing carbon source will cause bacterial bloom. This would have an effects on PO4 and NO3 as they will go into the bacterial biomass and the skimmer can then skim them out. Did you noticed that with sugar or volka you get very dark skimmate? So you can think what happens when the NO3 and PO4 runs out or there is insufficient PO4 & NO3 produced to feed the bacterial population? Mins can surely answer that lol. Dorado, different tank requires entirely different dosage and so there is not fixed rule, you really need to dose very little, slowly increasing by 50%/day and at the same time monitor the PO4. Once PO4 starts to reduce then you need to reduce your dosage by 50%. There is however a catch if you try to use salifert PO4 test kit, you will never know that your PO4 are dropping until it is too late and you already overdose.

When my hanna was giving 0.00 results, my SPS colors were getting lighter and lighter up to the point that I feel the colors were getting way too light. It was not until I increased feedings, keep the tank more dirty and increased dosage of AAHC. With that the PO4 are now at 0.01 and the colors are more intense now. So we should keep the PO4 low but not too low. Too low then SPS lost colors and if too high then you get dark tissues.

Hanna PO4 meter is no difference from the salifert PO4 test kit as both uses reagent. The main difference is at low PO4 concentration the hanna could detect the difference while with the salifert PO4 it is usually difficult as we have problems seeing the very light blue shade. IMHO at levels below 0.04ppm the sample on the hanna test tube appears colourless to my eyes but the hanna is able to read the color. So hanna PO4 meter only test for inorganic PO4. This is a little as this thread concerns SPS coloration. Anyway since we're at it and you mentioned it, care to share we us what are the difference? Any method that test for organic PO4 usually involves breaking it down into inorganic PO4 hence total-PO4.