weileong

mine took like 1.5yrs of cheonging to stock up one lol.

post some full-tank shots

Did I ask you to check for precipitaion the other time?

I never go too cos the prices increased already. Luckily my reef is almost full so I can go via frag exchanges lol.

Get those sanding machine with built in vaccum but that's gonna take many days of sanding

new one, arrived sat afternoon.

Like those people post in the RC thread, it has to do with nutrients and high ratio of actinic lighting used so why don't you look into these two factors and try to fix it? I would look at nutrients first you can judge from how clean your tank's front glass is, how often do you need to clean it to keep it looking like you have just clean it? My tank (undetectable PO4 with hanna) could go by two weeks without cleaning the front glass and it'll appear sparking clean as if it is just clean few mins ago. I noticed that has direct relation to the PO4 reading. When my PO4 (nutrients) readings are higher then I find that the cleaning intervals are more frequent. When my PO4 levels are 0.06 ppm (hanna) I need to clean the glass every 2-3days. Maybe now since you got rid of your canister, the situation will improve so keep us updated.

That's what I am doing now.

if you are able to maintain the salinity accurately at 16ppt with a refractometer then 16ppt is not too low and will be safe for your fishes for the duration of the treatment. If your main tank has no inverts or corals then you may apply the hypo safely w/o harm to other LS (fish only) in the tank.

wow like that you got problem accessing your overflow liao.

You trust a black cobra at home? No fangs I also don't trust lol

Too dangerous to keep. For $25 don't risk your life. Will you keep a cobra at home?

When it says reef-safe means it doesn't work and reefers keep trying them and doesn't work at all. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=36549

Ususally NO3 test kit reduces the NO3 to NO2 first. So you need to wait for your NO2 to become zero before you test for NO3.

How come all 80% all brown one?

Simon, definately the 3x250W LA3 mini heats up the water much faster.

Freshwater dip = 0 success reef-safe medication = 0 success Copper and hypo works for me. Treatment for ich has to start as early as possible once the sympton on ich shows. The earlier you start the better the chances for your fishes. The ich parasite is also another type of inverts so if those reef safe medication that claims to be able to kill the parasites but safe for the rest? Do you believe it?

sunlight or artifical lighting makes no difference. Same wavelength will have the same lost at the same depth. Our tank at most 2.5ft or even 3ft down and that's about 1m, you can see how much intensity is lost for the various wavelength. The results says no significant difference in the absorbance of the different wave length in our tank.

Simon, if don't have the exhaust kit then better not put in the tempered glass as all the heat is contain inside and might overheat. I saw your bulb holder, made of some resin, not sure if that can withstand the heat built up or not. Anyway here's some data extracted from my IKS. This is before my chiller servicing so run time is a little long, now with 3x250W full blast only requires 36mins run time for 1 cycle. From the data the luminarc doesn't seems to throw a lot of heat into the tank but if you stand near the tank personally you'll feel the heat too. This seems no problem for the artica 1/2hp commerical chiller even when the coolant is low but for weaker chiller that will cause it to run non-stop and temp slowly creeping up. This reminds me of the Reef relief chiller *pengz* I guess the choice for chiller is very obvious now. Still remember someone claims the artica chiller using very standard parts and the other brand having very long Titanium coil etc? At the end of the day, can cool down or not is the most important, we are not interested in who has the longest stuffs... if cannot perform, got longest also useless ma. I agree with Stanley that adding fan will help ease the load on the chiller. 12/8 I still running my aqualight, then 12/8 evening upgraded to LA3. I randomly select pairs of data matching close to the time of the day for the two days. Aqualight 2x250W DE + 1x150W DE date time temp 12/8 13:53 26.8 cooldown 50 mins 14:43 26.2 14:43 26.2 heatup 79 mins 16:02 26.8 Luminarc LA3 mini 3x250W HQL ballast. date time temp 14/8 12:22 26.9 cooldown 122 mins 14:24 26.2 14:24 26.2 heatup 52mins 15:16 26.9

White spots won't appear from nowhere. Either your tank already have low level of white spot infection and that cause the PBT to be infected or the PBT already carrying the parasites when you bought it. Best still to practise proper quarantine procedures.

My artica no need to struggle even when I set to 24degs with full blast of MH. BTW I heard a rumour liao, go go go ah.... bigger tank more space for sps lol.

wow so many goodies, up for you.

Bleached SPS are not white in color, different from STN/RTN where the tissues are lost. There's still some pigments in the tissues so you don't see white color from bleached sps.

I am sure there's very little tanks that are 3-5ft deep in our homes. For these type of depth the spectrum lost is not very great so you lost only intensity. For 6.5k bulbs, many colors can look wash out because it is simply too bright.

nevermind... i no interest in zoo.