weileong

make a species only tank for them lar or only put them with peaceful ah pek type tank mates then I think should be able to see them more often.

refilling is done once every 6 months. Not so shiong, filled up mine on Friday night but mine is the taller version, almost 3ft height. Washing the ARM is the super shiong, I think I spend like 2 hr washing until they are really clean.

yeah faster buy and keep us updated with all the photos. See your photos enuff already, I don't need to buy heheh.

I oso got the same problem, suspect the crabs got them. Will try them in my 2ft cube and I will use LR that confirm no crabs ie, maybe soak in freshwater for one day or dry them under the sun to make sure I kill all of them.

hmm... never notice anything around that time.

maybe LR in high demand now lol.

any photo of the hood?

what's the grade of the "live sand" ? and how many kg avaliable? Same goes for the LR, how many kg avaliable?

In the region of around $1K for the electrode only and excluding price of the meter. I don't think any LFS would carry it. If you really want to burn $$$ on it, pls let me know.

the green ones comes with my green buttons as they are the same color. Just got a big shocked when I saw that as I always thought they know well enuff not to touch those. I had been removing many of them in the morning and was about to remove this one before the blue tang got it

This morning lights just on and one green colored nutibranch crawling on my tank wall. My blue tang swims near it and graps it and split out. I thought okie, then in another moment it graps and shallow it man. And I thought they were poisonous??? The blue tang still alive after 3 hrs. Better pray hard it doesn't die.

I did not have a hole drilled. I use a 40mm PVC piping then do a U like in AT's tank and recommended by Alvy. Wors great. As for the micro bubbles, difficult to kill, so I just added baffles with egg crates a few minutes ago and I think I managed to get rid of them already. Damn eye sore. See this photo on my DIY egg crate baffle. When I close the air valve plus plug the John Guest fitting, the water level goes level than the grey tube. Actually I think this MD55 drives my EV-240 very well. Comes to think abt it, AquaC says it will overflow if you use an over-rated pump but did not happen for my case so I dunno if the rating for the MD55 is accurate.

Yes there is definately electronic type. Errrm... what's your budget? These Ion probes has certain restriction of pH range where the readings are accurate. Beyond that readings is inaccurate. Moreover due to the unstable nature of the electrode, you need to calibrate them on a daily basis. All probe type sensor works on the same principle for all manufacturer. IMO the end results is using a test kit is better. FYI, there's also sensor for Cyanide, Chloride,Sulfide,Iodide,Bromide, Copper, Cadmium,Lead,Thiocyanate.Fluoride,Silver,Sodium,Nitrate,Potassium, Calcium

I using the MD55 on my EV-240 too. My air valve is fully open and gatevalve closed abt 0.5 to 0.75 turns. Skimmate is pretty dry and very dark. I installed a ball valve and closed it by 10%. Was just wondering, the difference, did you had a hole drilled in the sump for the MD55?

Been starring at these two fishes for quite sometime already. The more I look, the more I seems to find the red fire goby must nicer, especially with the bright purple stripe on it's head and the long dosal fin. The more I see the more I fall in love with them

When I was cycling my 4ft, I had 100kg of LR and "livesand" from someone. There is enuff livesand to have a 0.75" thick layer to cover the whole tank. There's no ammonia spike after I intro a little piece of market prawn, I eneded up added many pcs more and the water turn smelly the next day. I immediately removed the prawns and ammonia dropped to zero within the next 5 days, so you might like to play safe to intro a small spike.

That's why I am going to use a MD55, then Tee off to drive the chiller and use a ball valve to adjust until I get the correct flow rate.

should be fine... that's what I am going to do too. But of course mine is Tee off from the MD55.

What's the rating for this APC UPS?

Your image is mirror reversed??? This is because the temp sensor is in the inlet which is nearer to the temp controller. If you connect the other way round then it will measure water temp coming out from the chiller. Dr Chill recommends the flow rate between 1800-2000l/hr. Have you noticed the 0.5hp is rated for 750 litres while the 1.25hp is rated for 900 or 950 litres? Quite strange right? See my 1.25 Titanium chiller.

Dr Evil, are you the Dr Evil in SHC?

Maybe I should consider using 54W PL. Still way cheaper than getting T5 unless I DIY into the hood. Ah where's Dr Evil heheh

FL wattage too low I think? The more blue the better so in this case T5 is brighter right? PL also another cheaper solution.

it's eye lighting, however I don't think they deal with walk in customers.

I using it for my 2ft cube SH tank so 150W is more than enuff. Will keep some softies in there too. Will be using artinic to balance the yellowish color of the saki... Maybe 2ft T5.