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Everything posted by weileong
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if there's no need to scroll horizontally then obviously you don't see the horizontal scroll bar Example is when someone post a really big photo then you'll see the scroll back
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the low contrast one is slightly better to surf SRC secretly during office hrs Glad the horizontal scroll bar is back heheh.
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you need time for them to adjust to the new "time zone".
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Mine had no problem. My 6 line leaves it alone. Maybe I shall keep a close watch on them.
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the higher color temp the lower the PAR
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that is a fulidised bed filter, if you add rowaphos then become and rowaphos reactor already. Can tell me where you saw it? I hunting high and low for one Do you know how tall is the one that you saw in the LFS?
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I came home and found out it's same size as the MD55 using ehiem 25/32mm tubing. Can connect to PVC piping directly?
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Grammidae
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Heng ah... I thought I read in liveaquaria that they don't that's why I bought them then suddenly I read that they do and thought it's bye bye to all my shrimps and now I learn it doesn't
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The turbo twist is special design, the water has to go thru the sterilizer in a spiral shaped flow which extends the contact type hence the name turbo "TWIST". The rest I see water just flows thru straight so contact time is shorter. The difference is $45 right?
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bro lighting... no offence for sure. The UV sterilizer are pretty safe as they are totally enclosed so the UV lights do not leak out. The ozone are much more effective but there's chance of overdose and O3 leakage if you're not careful. Like you said pro and cons so need to weight it carefully.
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That's provided you wanna take the risk of exposure to ozone I wouldn't want to try it. Overdoze and you might kill all your LS.
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The fishes especially my tangs seems to be free from ich. That's about 1 to 2 weeks after I installed the turbo twist. There was a outbreak of marine velvet in my tank many weeks ago and that has killed many fishes. You might recall I have lots of clownfishes, anthias etc and all got wiped out in a matter of 2-3 days and they all died with "white stuffs" on their skin so I presume that is marine velvet. They are also down with ich. Happened to be at mainland and saw this turbo twist in sale so bought one to test. After that my last two tomota clown slowly recovered from the "white skin" disease. The made it thru. I noticed the white spots on the tangs also totally disappear after 1-2 weeks and they don't appear on the body anymore. After a few more weeks I added in a salifin tang and there is no sight of white spots on it body until now. This is my observation only and I do not know if the UV will help for your case. But I think you've a redsea O3 right? You know when I see your fish dying one by one and I can't do a thing abt it I gave the UV a try and it seems to work. Now I keep it running 24/7. I read that UV will introduce a very small amount of ozone into the tank water and that might have helped for my case. When my 2ft cube is put online I will use another turbo twist for it too.
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he must have thought he's an anthias himself Cannot beat them so join them.
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The placement of the tunze is very important. I just aim them directly at "the other side of the tank" all 3 tunze occupy a corner the tank and is directed at the corner diagonally across the tank. The 6100s are set to pulsing of 30-90% while the 6000 is set to pulsing of 70-100% So far no issues except the bubbles cannot take the flow, the rest of the LPS seems to be doing fine except a brown frogspawn that waves madly but it's been 3 months and the tissues are still there and seems to be growing to me so I just leave it that way. Would be interesting to see what happens when I upgrade the 6000 to 6100. Quite good flow as I can see the polyps of all my SPS moving when the tunze are at high flow. There is no issues of sand storm in my tank nor any signs of sandbed shifting. BTW I loves the wave action on the surface of the tank, really look like the sea
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mainland tropical in Paris Ris is also selling. Price wise is $300. My tank size is the same as yours and I am using the 12x turbo twist which is 36w and the largest, driving with 1260 with total tubing length is abt 3m and it goes from sump and return back to main tank.
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Anyone knows the tubing size on the MD40? Thought it was like that MD55 using 25mm but when I saw it, it was much smaller and looked like 16mm. Can anyone confirm cos I don't have the pump with me but wanted to go buy the tubing/adaptor later.
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how big is your tank? You might want to go for the largest so you can push up the flow.
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I'm ready to turn myself in if my tangs goes skinny but right now all of them are "overweight". Actually right now my tangs are on Kent Platinum Reef herbivore which is small pellet with vegetable with 2x daily feeding with auto feeder. Like Hon, I am very delighted to share my job of getting a chiller that has no problem in cooling my tank. Just stating an fair and objective view IMHO of what I observe and that's about it. I have no commerical interest in the chiller so I gain nothing but maybe get wack by the rest if the chiller don't work for them. Oh did I tell you my 1.25hp Ti had to run like 18-20hrs a day to cool my tank. My worries started as I was about to pipe in a 2ft cube with 150W MH running another 90W pump as return for it. I had nightmare that the chiller would have to run 24/7. Out of all the factors definately TRUST is the most important
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ah.... I get what you meant already I thought I am done already but seems like I need to rescape soon. Hiak.... luckily got abt 25kg more LR on standby meant for my 2ft cube. Probably keep things this way first and then rescape in about one month's time cos don't want to stress the fishes too much. Is the right side of your tank also follow this way to scaping?
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my sailfin tang like always want to bite them when they go near it
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You sure it's not safe? Mine doesn't touch my clams.
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1ft = 12" = 300mm so you can do the maths easily. Even those website will ask you to estimate the sand and rocks. Do you really need to know the exact volume? In this case you can do so when filling up.