weileong

Norti on LR = when your tang is pecking on the LR but not eating. You dry norti on a piece of LR and put it back onto the tank. When the tang "accidentally" peck the norti, it will soon learn how to eat norti elsewhere in the tank, either floating or clip on ones. Tried and worked very well.

day 4. More active now. Swimming around very actively, pecking more on the LR. Salifin tang now leaves it alone. I noticed that the tail of my salifin tang has some tear. Could be the AT fighting back!!! Noticed all the white spot on it's body is gone. Left a few dots on the fins. Could be neon goby be doing their job already or my UV? Only time will tell. It will tried to bite on norti but still do not eat it. I will clip a few more norti to the LR and see if it will go peck on it. Anyway have to feed my other tangs full first else they will wack all the norti and finish it before the AT has chance to even try to peck it. It does "monkey see monkey do" unfortunately.

The $$$ is wrong Low power and high flow is good but I guess at the end of the day I'll only get it when I upgrade my tank so I can design it properly else wait the overflow box cannot take the flow rate.

I look at the flow curve and estimate Else you can take a big container + stop watch For fluidised reactor very simply, just tweak the flow until the media just get suspended but not flying out.

I scared I tell his nick then you all go bomb his PM box. Let him reveal himself if he wants to. 3 cheers to him, too many good advise from him. Anyway he saved me from buying the red dragon, lol else another $1.5K gone. Seems like all of you know who he is already, too obvious hints already, who else have IKS + red dragon and 6ft + change water once a yr + 9 months long AT from reborn lol. Errmm... AT, what do you meant by "a 1048 or 848 at the least." is this referring to the dimension of the sump?

sounds like a great idea

I think the 12x turbo twist recommend a flow rate of around 290 g/h so if you go too slow the turn over rate would be too low. I would get a cheap pump like the SICCE NOVO for the FR509 and ehiem 1250 for the turbo twister. Should be a no brainer to throw the FR509 and pump in the sump. That is what I am going to do.

You sure that FR509 can take so high flow rate? Recommended only 500 l/h else all your media gonna fly out of the reactor.

That insurance company = NTUC right

The normal aircon man can do it right?

PMed you

bro lightning, Which CO2 cylinder are you using? Did you buy the regulator from petmart too? If it doesn't fit then I guess you can ask for a refund. If not you may bring the cylinder and regulator to this place and they might be able to help you. Teck Siong Huat Hardware Pte Ltd Blk 28 Kelantan Rd #01-137 Tel : 6292 9385 For those looking for difficult to find tubing & adaptors, you can try there. As for the pH meter, when you tune that screw, did the reading change? You might like to soak this in warm water (ard 60degs) for 10mins to clean the probe. Like bro Alvy said you might want to check your calibration solution. Or you wanna bring to my house and I help you take a look at it, you know how to contact me right?

I would send it back to agent too But then for our bro's case the other party's car is around 5 yrs old, no eligible for new parts, even if claim insurance they will use recon parts

when you send your car back to the agent, it's always cost a lot more. Example, just a bumper with respray, cost abt $1K at agent but abt $400 outside That is for exactly the same repair and exactly the same parts used.

if your NCD is 50% then after first claim it will be reduced to 20%. If 40% NCD then it will be reduced to 10% after first claim. If your NCD is 30% or lower than it will be reduced to 0%. Unless they changed it recently cos I kanna before 50% dropped to 20%.

I scared I mentioned his name and pple will go flood his PM box This senior reefer is the same person that taught me the dried norti on LR trick Some hints. He's got IKS, red dragon, 6ft SPS reef, AT from reborn. Should be enough hints, okie let's not exposed his identify else I can't get tips from him already. For return pump. I intend to have about a flow of 6000 l/h which I hope will not be too strong. Shall I add in one more baffle for safety?

Actually this is my finalise design, submitted to tank maker already. skimmer pump at 1st compartment from right. overflow from tank at 2nd compartment. skimmer return at 3rd comparment. return pump at last compartment. Water level is reduced to 5" at last compartment. Water level for the 1st 3 compartment will raise to the level of the partition on the left of 3rd compartment so will help to kill any bubbles. In this design the last compartment will not run dry. skimmed water flows to last compartment. No compartment will run dry as it does not matter if return pump or skimmer pump has higher flow rate as the flow into the last compartment will depends on the return pump flow rate.

ah.... spraying of water Already encounter it a few times already. End up had to clean to house like crazy.. luckily I have that Osim mermaid else mop one hundred times still sticky

Even if you change to another insurance company, the loading is still there because you have to report any claims within the last 3 yrs. Once you have a 3rd party claim then the premium will be much higher, this is especially true for the next renewal. I kanna before, no choice bang into a 4 yrs old corona so LL had to fork out $800 for the other guy, the demaged is very similar to the other guy that you banged into. For my case his boot cover has dented and rear bumper almost dropped out. He wanted $1.2K initally but I bought my mechanic to his workshop to bargain real hard and they happened to know each other so eventually settled for $800. I repaired my 5 yrs old corolla for $300 Well in the end I kept my NCD and no premium raise and that alone was worth it. The $1K is painful but only painful for once rather than if you go to insurance, it'll be a blackmark forever in your record and you'll feel the pinch everytime it comes to policy renewal.

wow... sounds so scary.... I thought cable ties are better than those hose clamps? Always thought they are very prone to rusting. I tighten them a lot so they leaves some marking on the tubings, you're getting me worried, better go get some hose clamps first thing tomorrow

bro, His is a old car already, no way the repair gonna cost more than $1K. If he does not give in to your request to repair at your workshop then just let the insurance settle. But be warned cos you banged into pple's backside and next insurance you'll be labelled as "dangerous driver" so your premium will shoot up and your NCD will be reduced to 20%. But then you bang into him so he has the upper hand now. If really have to go to the insurance then I suggest trying to bargain with him and see if you guys can settle it w/o going thru insurance else the lost in NCD and increase in premium will really add up.

Or you can use 20mm socket or elbow to connect directly. This example is MD40 but it has the same connection as MD55.

Go hardware shop and ask for "20mm PVC". Can be connected directly but not so recommended. Better to use one piece of flexible tubing. This is how I connect up mine using flexible tubing.

If someone steps on it then prepare to buy a new sump I would use at least a small pc of flexible tubing, that'll help on the vibration from the pump as well. A bit anyone knows where to buy ehiem 25/32mm tubing? Seems to be out of stock everywhere! except for one place selling at $25/m.

I found my 2 peppermint in my sump. No chance to catch them out so leave them there