weileong

lol..... Feed little but many times a day and after sometime you will see fat fat tangs

usually when they specs the chiller they run it without any heat load and the duration is like 16 - 24 hrs. Example w/o heat load, running for 16-24 hrs to chill down to 25 degs. The ambient temp also plays a part too, for all you know the test condition might have ambient temp of 28 degs so it's just a drop a 3 degs.

Indeed really like leopard The crab is still in a small 1L container... I don't think it can last very long in there. Got several PM last night but unable to contact anyone this morning. Those keen pls let me know ASAP, collecting in Haig Road. If by Sat morning still cannot find a new owner then I'll have to throw it into sea liao.

Correction the size should be 8"

Thanks deepblue. 7th month somemore. I am not sure what crab it is, wanna flush down the toilet but my girl begged me to save him. I have no sump so cannot keep

Found this crab while cycling. Never see before Up for adoption. Size ard 1cm

another, color turns much darker compared to the female.

Dispar also follow him.

Fin errected.

This lyretail morphing into a male. Color change in progress.

use egg crate raise it above water level lor.

What do you need to know ?

You can just swop your 6100 transformer with someone's 6000 transformer. I know one friend that had 2 6000 that wants to upgrade to 6100. I'll get him to contact you. Both of you can just swap the transformer The transformer seldom break down so age is not an issue as long as it is in good condition.

If my 4ft tank can keep this I will net out all my other fishes Sure look very solid swimming in the tank.

Helping a friend post. black tang, 12" yes size is 12 inch, 30cm. Going for $350

The SL one always pale pale color one, dun know why. Maybe the diet there or maybe the medication the fish got at the supplier. The Pasir ris farmway 1 is how big?

Anyone seen any healthy whitecheek in LFS? Looking for small ones, ard 2-3" head to tail max. Looking for those very dark colored with the chao chao type look

You referring to the rio hyperflow?

That's in RC if I am not wrong. We could setup more tunze steams (placed at different parts of the tank instead all aiming at one direction) on sequential mode so the current can come from different direction.

My fishes in my 4ft 1x achilles tang 1x blue tang 1x yellow tang 1x salifin tang 1x indian ocean minic tang (Acanthurus tristis) 1x foxface 1x cleaner wrasse 1x 6 line wrasse 11x lyretail anthias 1x bicolor anthias 7x dispar anthias 2x black tomato 1x jewel algae blenny 3x blood shrimps 1x Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp 1x Coral Banded Shrimp 2x some reef shrimps but forgot the name 1x short soft spine urchin 1x abalone 1x piston shrimps/goby pair (cute to watch)

If you do get a Dr fish then just get one will do Mine is observed to stick around my AT most of the time as I presume it is an ich magnet or have some stuffs for it work on. My Dr fish also works on my anthias from time to time but ignore my cute little chevron. Gouldian, you could try to flood your tank with bite sized nori first to get your AT to start on nori. I think it is easier to do so rather than other prepared food. Once it starts eating then you can try to slowly get it onto pellets or other stuffs. Last night my AT is observed trying out on mysis already.

The chao chao look AP at ML is yours?

The wavemaker could be position higher so that the current flows downwards and the chances of big acros blocking the current are lower.

Better play safe. The fish could be carrying whitespot but not showing visible signs.

Read in RC that in order for hyposalinity to work, the SG should be kept at 1.009 or 14ppt for 6 weeks to fully kill all the ich. Now I quarantinee my new fishes in my Q tub for 6 weeks before I introduce into my main tank. More trouble now and less headache later.