weileong

lyretail.

larger view

Nope just with the nikkor 105mm at 1:1 ratio. The photo i posted is already resized smaller already else the image scale is even larger.

heng you started page 9

dunno lei. All other tangs no need to hide but this AP need to hide, must be this AP got big problem. Hide till butahan end up have to go away... maybe no place hide end up jump out of the tank.

pin hole camera

I used MF, got more control ma. But if you set to F/32 the depth of field is deeper and I don't see why AF won't work cos even AF is 0.5% out it will still be in focus. To use MF then you really need very sharp eyes

what type of macro are you trying to grow? and how old is your reef already? how about lighting schedule in your refigium?

So means you did not encounter yellow water but you think that after long time the rowaphos will cause your tank water to turn yellowish? As for throwing the rowaphos away, I am sure it is easy to throw it into a plastic bag. It just boils down on common sense Guess it's really pain in the butt for you only.

After you put the new rowaphos into the FR, run tap water into it until the water turns clear. That will rinse the rowaphos properly. As for water turning yellow in long run that is caused by not using GAC Nothing to do with rowaphos. Too many fine particle flying ard is due to too high flow rate in the FR so reduce your flow until the media are just lift a little will do the trick. No need for them to be dancing like in disco. See your post, 9 months w/o activated carbon so that's why your tank water turn yellowish. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...=0entry332008

http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=10336

with yellow strip is orange shoulder la.

If your LS are healthy enough to tahan that one time sand storm then no issues. I did major cleaning of my sandbed 2 weeks ago, water turn milky but no LS lost, no ich outbreak.

If you read FR instruction then they recommend you rinse the rowa But too bad yours DIY FR w/o proper instruction Anyway David Saxby from deltec also recommend rinsing the rowaphos before using in FR.

zeovit system do a good job of keeping the PO4 down ma No need waste $$$ on rowaphos heheh. Patrick123 it is recommended that the rowaphos be rinsed to remove the brown stuffs and you never follow it then you say you get lot of problem from the brown stuffs?

the problem is that they used it in a FR and they tune the flow too high so naturally they have the rowa flying in the tank. They recommend you to wash the rowaphos to remove those fine particles before using it in a FR.

so suck it out if possible

How I calculated is that right now every year it is only abt $3k depreciation for me. No matter how I am safe guarded because the OMV 130% + COE value + body price. The only thing that will depreciate is $3k yearly for COE and body price maybe lost another $1-2k so it is at most $6k to keep the car for abt 18-19months. On paper it looks like getting a new car maybe depreciation also around there. Since already have a car to drive and since the loan also almost going to finished paying (most of the interest already paid) then maximise a bit ah. Also market siutation like not so confirm one. You get the new car now then the depreciation too high, 2 yrs later you lost maybe more than $20-$25k. Also got rumour floating ard that the goverment will announce a lower PARF or totally do away with the PARF so new car price will further drop again. That's why I figure better to hold and wait first. You can't go wrong by keeping your current car, at least that's true for my case.

Yes you can bid your COE and buy separately from dealer but I think end up the price is higher than you get the whole package from the dealer. I also very gian getting a new car but after some careful calculation I decided to carry on driving my old car. Then just scape it before 5yrs... sign... another 18-19months more lol.