Jameshong

Hi, Please help to ID this red crab which have been with me for 1 year plus but yet to know who this fellow was !

Too strong for my tank liao so afraid later my overflow cannot take it !

Can easily purchase from LFS at 10~12 buck only...so no point auction la !

Hi all, Anyone got spare or used Mini Red Dragon 3.5 m3 pump want to sell? Pls Pm me the details includes age, condition and yr best offer hor !

upz.....! anyone selling ?

any update for LCK and CF?

Sorry wrong header...should be MWTB instead of MWTS ! Looking for 2nd hand Royal Exclusiv Mini Red Dragon Pump 2.5 m3 or 3.5 m3 pump . Please PM me the age, condition and best offer if you have any spare one to let go. Thanks.

Yap...will do the wire out if thing get worst. Not many corals yet as previous SPS brown off due to my mistake of putting too near to the LED lighting. Now starts to recovering but no camera at the moment so will post after a few months later !

For those having problem logging in from their bookmark, please change the new login address to www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php or login from the main site; www.sgreefclub.com May be the dc input connector is a concern but anyway...it's easily replaced So not much issue for me

Update .

Cute ! Is it reef safe ?

For item 1, how long have you used it and what is the condition of the needlewheel impellor ! Thanks.

Where to collect?

Not 20kg else....It's 22kg !

Hi bro, Minimum 2 buck la !

Well said bro BarraCuda ! I'm ready trying hard to compromise performance, outlook and costs effectively !

Thanks for your suggestion and comment. At this moment, I have no intention to switch to beefy heatsink yet till I do more testing and confirmation. Btw, do you have any success diying project to share ? Thanks .

Thanks for sharing the knowledge !

Ok noted. Is my below statement correct ? SSC P4 spec: Junction Temperature, TJ : 145C @ <=700mA RθJ-Bis measured with a SSC metal core pcb.(25 ºC≤TJ≤110 ºC) RθJ-C is measured with only emitter. .(25 ºC≤TJ≤110 ºC) And my current reading is 39C So my junction temperature is 10 * 4Watt * 39 = 79C as such It's still within good range! Am I right to say that ?

Hi BarraCuda, Thanks for your comments . As I have mentioned that 3 points measurement taken with 3 different reading . One of it is pointing IR(red light) directly to the black paint/portion(not reflective) on the star metal core PCB beside the emitter less than 2.5 cm . Although contact thermometer is more accurate but I do not need to go to the extend till 100% as long the different is around +-5% on actual target. FYI, this fluke digital thermometer that I'm using is mainly designed for commerical uses. And I have been using it in my daily work for years without fails and the accurancy is +-1%. IMHO, the temperature for 35 lens with 3mm aluminum plate and 2 fans should not exist 45 degree unless we are talking about 100 pcs lor !

Hi bro, You need proper soldering tool with ESI and some soldering skill in order to secure the LEDs. To go green further...I would advice all DIY guru or newbies to use LEAD FREE soldering lead. Althougth It's more expensive but It can withstand 40 degree higher than normal leaded soldering lead and non-toxic too.

After running for 20 hours... it's time to take the temperature ! I have pointed the digital thermomter directly to the black portion of the star PCB near to the soldering point of the emitter and the reading is 38~39 degree within acceptable range. Distance is 2.5cm away from the point measured. I have make another 2 tests; one is pointed directly to the aluminum plate...reading is 35~36 degree and the other pointed to the aluminum plate with splash glass and the reading is as low as 32~33 degree. This test will be carry on for 3 days to further confirm the average reading then follows by another test without fan but this one, I need to take leave to monitor closely ! Close shot

After running for 20 hours... it's time to take the temperature ! I have pointed the digital thermomter directly to the black portion of the star PCB near to the soldering point of the emitter and the reading is 38~39 degree within acceptable range. I have make another 2 tests; one is pointed directly to the aluminum plate...reading is 35~36 degree and the other pointed to the aluminum plate with splash glass and the reading is as low as 32~33 degree. This test will be carry on for 3 days to further confirm the average reading then follows by another test without fan but this one, I need to take leave to monitor closely ! Close shot

Yes, use aluminum sheet as heat sink and LED is 3watt/LED.

Hi reefcrazy, It is a simple connection from (+)LED(-) to (+)LED(-) so no need schematic diagram, however you need some soldering skill and proper tools ! The most important is design and plan your LED to LED spacing, White and royal blue combination, overall layout, ideal size of the lightset... ahead.