Jameshong

Dear fellow reefers, I have recieved many inquiries regards to where I purchased the LED from. I'm sorry that I do not have time to reply you individually as such, to benefit of all DIY newbies, I will post it here. You can get the LED, len and star metal core PCB from; DealExtreme Free Shipping. Kaidomain Free Shipping. Or locally...you can look for fellow reefer, Sherman. He is a nice guy and also DIY LED guru who has the lobang getting it locally. Meanwell Power Supply (build in LED driver) SM System Control Pte Ltd No 2 Woodlands Sector 1 #05-06 Spectrum 1 Singapore 738068 Tel: 65-68532555 Fax: 65-68531555 Bond-Ply Adhesive tape RS Singapore Acrylic Website: Dama Main & Sales Office Blk 3029A, Ubi Road 3, #01-98 & 01-99 Singapore 408661. Tel: (+65)-6743 6100 (30 Lines) Fax: (+65)-6395 9100 / 6382 0700 Business Hours Monday – Friday : 8.30am – 8.00pm* *Evening 6.30pm – 8.00pm (self collection only) Saturday : 8.30am – 3.00pm Close on Sunday and Public Holiday

Thanks for the compliment . BTW, I have no intention of commercialize the product and also not qualify too . DIYing is part of my hobby too beside marine hobby and I really enjoy the feeling of the self satifaction and achievement at the end of each project !

My new LED fixture design's concept and philosophy : Finally, my new baby was born on National Day, 9th August 2009, 2330 after a long process of planning, designing and implementation. My new LED fixture was successfully created and completed with the following concept and philosophy: (1) Slimmest, light, neat and durable (2) Cost efficient, with high quality & standard (3) Wide Light spread without spotted effect (4) Ease of access for repair and maintenance (5) Scalability for future upgrade(Optional) From the series of pictures that I have posted, you can see the whole process of using only White acrylic to box up the entire light as a fixture. I preferred acrylic material as it is very light weight and easy to drill as compared to aluminum, and also have various colors as choices. As for the heat sink, I’m using a 3mm aluminum plate instead of fin heat sink as it looks very bulky and also put on weight which is against my design concept and personal liking. Wires are all hidden and done behind the aluminum plate to have neat outlook. For this project, I have improved the design by reducing the height of 8mm to 6.5mm (slimmer) without affecting the ventilation, added more LEDs includes 4 UV for better area coverage, larger plate size of aluminum sheet to cater for fast heat transfer, 2 fans for air circulation (22 CFM/fan) and last but not least, creating the refreshing design of fixture layout internally & externally by using WHITE acrylic as compared to the 1st LEDs black fixture that I'm using it now. My 1st LED black fixture My 1st LED black fixture -Light on Testing I’m going to do 2 reliability tests at the room temperature (28~30 degree) for 3~7 days continuously starting from 12th August 2009. Same as previous project, I’ll be using Fluke Digital Thermometer to take down all the temperature reading as precaution measure. I would also like to take the par reading however I do not have the PAR meter on hand so I have to drop off this idea at the meantime. First test is to run the light set for 16~20 hours continuously with 2 fans running and measure the temperature every one hour interval. If the temperature increases to more than 50 degrees, I may consider add in Fin heat sink and repeat the process again but I doubt it needed. Second test is to run the set for 8~10/16~20 hours without fan but I have to monitor very closely and perform temperature taking every 20~30 minutes as I do not want to “cook†my LEDs and wrap my acrylic. I’m expecting the temperature to rise to 60~70 degrees which is still within the SSC P4 LED specification. Otherwise, Fin heat sink may be considered as “adds-in†and the whole process of testing needs to be repeated. This particular test is meant to create a scenario that in case 2 fans malfunction when I‘m not at home, it will not burn off my LEDs within a period of time. Total output “Kelvin†by visual is estimated to be about 12~14KK. Future upgrades (Optional) 1.Add DIY programmable dimmer circuit or purchase off-the shelf product to create dawn-and-dusk simulation effect. 2.Add DIY circuit to cutoff the LED when Chiller malfunctions or purchase off-the shelf product. Total Cost and Parts Used (SGD) MISC Tank Details Mix Reef 2ft cube tank. Corals are birdnest, monti, acro, zoa, blasto, prata, acan, goni .. etc. Currently there is no fishes but with some inverts. Equipment: Vortech MP40W & MP20, TLF FR, Arctica 1/10hp powered by AB1000, Eheim 1260 return pump, Schuran JetSkim 120 Conclusion With my existing 22 LEDs lighting design, although I have no PAR meter to measure the PAR value, ,I can still see the improvement growth of a few of my injured monti, that were previously given by some other fellow reefers, via visual and daily monitoring. My super monti have significantly grown from 1†to 3†within 4 months, with improvement in the coloration (the weak brown monti has gradually changed to its original blue). I preferred LED lighting design as it can help to reduce the heat by more than 50% as compared to MH bulb, and also significantly reduced the total electricity cost by 30~40% per month. Therefore, it helps to sustain my marine hobby which I always love and at the same time promotes ECO conservation. From my past experience and continuous exploration , I have decided to re-build another entirely new and better LED fixture to further promote the growth of the corals in my tank as lighting is one of the essential yet important factor in nurturing healthy marine reefs. With this, I would like to take the opportunity to express my grateful thanks to my wife and 2 obedient children who have been supporting me fully in my project and hobby. And I also like to thank those who have contributed their time in providing advice, comment and feedback to me in making this project a success. Big Thanks !

Dated : 9th August 2009..................Happy Birthday to my WHITEY ! Finally.....My baby Whitey was born ! Delivery Time : 2330 Here the handsome guy looks ...

Hi Sherman, I know what you mean ! .

FYI, Acrylic is typically processed at 240–250 °C when manufacturing so I dun think 35 LEDs heat able to melted it . From my past experience, It should not more than 40 degree with fan switching on . Why acrylic? Light weight, hard, many colour to choose from, cheaper and most important is that you can design, customise and to glued it yourself(DIY) !

Hi bro, Trial and error la. ..sure can gain Knowledge and skill from there onward mah ! You wouldn't know whether can or not, unless you try hor !

Hi bro, LCD display CCFL is very thin and also the K factor consideration so It's not suitable for marine lighting.

LED layout Plan may vary slightly after actual testing.

Progress updates. I have completed the acrylic case and from now onward, I'll be working on soldering, wiring the LED. Top panel Top panel with Fan Rear cover glued the top panel to the main body. top view Front view Completed view. 4 DC input connector, White, Royal Blue, Fan and 1 spare.

For parallel, I 'll incorporated current mirror circuit to protect and balance up the current evenly to each string which I have done on my current LED lighting. No issue for me . anyway, for this new project...i built in spare DC input connector in case I change my mind and drop off parallel stringing .

Hi bro, not to be worry as my current 22 LEDs fixture is driven at more than 1A with 2 fans and the temperature is not more than 30 degree. The in and out of my airflow is 44 cfm which is sufficient to disperse the heat lor .

Thanks for your advice. Meanwell Power supply can vary the current so I may reduce the 1.4A to 1A instead.

Update... Drilled 5 holes at each side for ventilation. Glued the side panel. Glass panel inserted for testing. Top view.

Est <750. for entire 35 LEDs fixture of 4xUV, 13xRoyal blue and 18xPure white. Currently plan is 2 Meanwell Power supply with extra input for 3rd Power supply ready. Which meant 1 Power supply for 22 LED (parallel, 700mA/ string) and othe other is 1400mA/string for 13 LEDs. When neccessary, I'll add one more power supply to become 11 by 11 by 13 . Same as my previous design...I'll be using 2 fans to disperse the heat and I think it's sufficient to do the job .

yes . 2 LCDTV fans in corporated to reduce heat !

Process and progress of boxing up the acrylic sheet. 3/4 done and will do the wiring once completed.

After the 1st LED lighting since last years and the result is good so decided to another one with 35 LED for better coverage for my tank. All stuff just gathered yesterday morning and started my process of diying now and expected to complete by next week includes of testing. Here are the update; 3mm Aluminum plate with drilled hole for wiring Adhesive tape for Star MCB, Bond-Ply Customised Acrylic sheet from DAMA.

84 !

Update... Just received the new aluminum plate and Bond-Ply adhesive tape.

New Toy added not more 2 hours and let see the skimmate..........

NO idea...suspected the weird monster worm was the cultprit unless some ppl can proof me wrong.

Lead the output back to 1st chamber !

Hi all, Skimmer tentatively reserved. Thanks for all those who PMed me !