jd_n

Hmm...since tat u have no experience with sps and only managed to see a few tat really catches ur attention but u must not forget AP used to own a 6footer sps tank. Therefore i believed she can differentiated betw wats nice and healthy and wats not nice not healthy sps. My first exposure to sps is....everything looks nice to me, dark brown, brown, white (RTNed), or semi-white (RTing)..etc. From wat i saw yesterday, there r pretty common sps and infact i even suggest to Hong Wei to remove one tat RTN so as not to spread to the others. Nxt, not forgettin DA's fren had taken all the nice one oreadi. Unless he has new stocks comin in today else sad to say...none of the sps appeals to me but he did mentioned tat his stocks comes in on friday (today) and he will quarantine them for one day (saturday) before lettin them on sale. I believed one of the piece tat caught ur attention must be the Horn Coral. Its of a considerably good size but nuthin unique or special abt it. Lastly, i believed his sps r from either his personal collection or showtank or dunno where coz they definitely dun look like newly harvested sps from Fiji.

Thickskinned bubble blower huh Rodian.....i knw who u referrin to

hmm.....was there yesterday and definitely did not see any sps tat catch my attention. Common brown up sps and RTNing one is all i see.

Yah lor....remembered he almost wanna get 2 atlantic blue tang. Remember to let me knw when both of u r going to any particular LFS so tat i can go there before u guys or else......i m left with all the not so nice one

DA always said:" all the nice one taken by my fren, left only those nt so good one:"

It shd b "do not add in any more fishes" not juz tangs.

Lugols solution is juz another brand names like Iodine, Iodine Mild...etc tat contains iodine, potassium iodide. So watch the dosage if u gonna use it.

hmm....u buddy of veeresh. Quite a couple posted in the wrong section recently huh Anyway, it kinda look werid and unnatural

Tats y to minimise stressin out the old inhabittants. The least bit we can do is provide the least problematic water condition as close to the previuos tank as possible. And all i can think of is to do a proper cyclin and perform water testin so tat when using back any used media with all the so called 100% survived nitrosomonas and nitrobacter, the least is tat they will be able to handle the new system with minimal affects on the water conditions so as to minimal stressin out any LS.

Hmm...nd to take breaks in between to read else very bad for my eyes I did a tank migration couple of mths back from a 3x1.5.1.5 to a used 3.5x2.5x2.5 tank tat has a sump filled with used coral chips (this tank has been in used for more than a yr until this fren of mine decided to downsize and let me have the tank ). I used back the same sump (untouch), same sandbed plus i top it up with new sand to 6inches thick. Cycled with abt 80kg of new LRs for 2mths. Performed 30% water change after cycling. Let tank run for 1 more week before removing abt 30% water again and this time transfered all the water from my old tank, together with LRs, corals, fishes....basically everythin from old tank go over to new tank. With all water parameters tested.....ok. I had 60% of my corals tat die on me. Now care to share which part of my migration tat goes wrong base on wat u have replied on ur eassy post. Wat i have mentioned in my initial posting is... thru the using back of all ur old media, used LRs,....etc to a new tank doesn't mean this new tank is going to be a 100% living environment for ur LS juz like the old undisturb one. As we r toking abt LS in our hands and being responsible in reef keeping. We need to go the extra mile of being cautious rather than hastily performing a migration base on believing. Tats y the test kits being sold r use for = to peform the necessary water test to ensure the condition r rite. Ammonia > Nitrite> Nitrate> Nitrogen gas = the end product tat every reefers wanna obtain. But mostly reefers are stuck at Nitrate due to the fact tat there r no means of removing them especially in a new tank due to not having a denitrator, DSB, refugium or these system r simply too young to coupe. Juz take DSB for example, it takes at least 6mths and above to mature and during this period...wats the alternative way to counter the existin nitrate problem.> Thru dosin chemical solution and hopefully it do cause water unbalance. And having a cannister filter tat lack of maintenance will only contribute to more nitrate buildup and even having all the nitrosomonas and nitrobacter in the cannister filter but ultimately the process juz stop at nitrate. So on hand u r having nitrosomonas and nitrobacter in the cannister workin for u on the other hand the cannister is trapping debrities and causin nitrate buildup.

FYI, during transfering, significant amt of bacteria die off when come in contact with the atmosphere. No doubts there may be survival but there will be a drop in concentration of beneficial bacteria. And tats referring to the LRs, as for the coral chip, they r most likely to be a nitrate factory housing debritis than to house any substantial amt of bacteria. Therefore this present 3ft tank using media from 2ft will not be enough to support the present new 3ft be it existing bioload or worst still more bio load. Wat ever dn has been dn and i would reckon u do a test on ur water parameters and recitfy the problem shd there be one. Btw, the water level in the pix seem to reach all the way to the bracing or my eyes playin tricks on me

Bro, here is where u do a review on certain product not ask question abt them. Kindly request the mods to shift it to the proper section before u get a warning. Anyway, IMO tat digital thermometer u mentioned....nt accurate coz i used it inconjuction with my glass thermometer. And they registered different reading and i definitely rather believe the glass thermometer than the digital one.

hmm,......at least the video footage not tat clear. Recalled tat back in NS, one of the officer went as a observer to "can't remember where he went but if i m not wrong shd be the middle east side". Anyway, he is COL Low Young Poh (anybody knws him ). The video footage we watched was clear and wat we seen.... . Well, its showed a group of man pinning down a man and there is this woman using a knife, slicing and cuttin off this man head. As she is a woman = lack of strength = "sawing action" on the neck. Imagine the victim ordeal before death. Blood can be seen flowing out formin into pools within seconds. Apparently this man murdered this woman's husband and this execution took place in a market place. If i m not wrong, its a islamic country. Ultiamtely, its juz to show us video footage of his mission there and tats part of wat he experienced. Well, after tat....we proceed to lunch. Think none of us havin prob eatin probably we r juz as .

Hi Barbarik, i believed u may have violated the rules regarding commercial posting. From wat i read, it ur posting seem pretty much a commercial posting to me. Anyway, u might wanna have a read abt wat i meant over at http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1443 or better still clarify with AT or any mods.

For a proper DSB to work, the area shd be as big as ur main tank or even bigger. Well anyway, anythin smaller than that will make do juz for the ease of the mind. Ur DSB will probably mature 6mths and above down the road and till then u may wanna consider on how to tackle ur present nitrate problem. Coz ur NO3 will be on the increase.

Wat i mentioned are meant for pple with tank tat do not inhabit any parasites or tat little to do much harm. Quarantining ur fish in a quarantine tank filled with ur main tank water is not only to monitor any disease tat it may happened to bring along from the LFS but also to get it to feed . Shd any disease surface within 1-2wks then u can perform the proper treatment rather than intro into main tank and have the disease spreadin to other inhabitant. Little nitrate won't cause much harm to ur fish and unless u have a matured system, i would say nitrate r there in ur tank...juz a matter of how much. If u have go thru the proper cycling phase, ammonia shd not be present at all. Its common sense tat if u r having prob with ur main tank, then y set up a quarantine tank for. Lastly, if there r sign of ICH in the main tank, u shd not be buyin any fish at all!

Quarantine tank will consist 100% of water from ur main tank. To run a filtration system or not is up to u. For me is daily 30% water changes using water from main tank therefore i dun run any fitration in quarantine tank juz powerhead in it. Perform water changes an hr after u have feed the fish. As for ur main tank, u can then use new fresh saltwater mix to top up wat u have removed. Lighting wise, juz any normal lightin will do and i would reckon a tank of at least 1.5ft and above. U may want to use cloth to cover up all the side so tat ur fish dun get panicky and stress out when movements r detected. All the above r for fishes quarantine. As for corals....dun c the need and have not come across any pple doing corals quarantining also.

Still eyein my brain huh.... Make me an offer tat i cannot resist lah

Got pix i would have posted Its golden brown in color

Sellin my approx 6inch squamosa for $60. Interested pls pm me

Hmm...juz wonderin. Its our hardearned money but always ended up not being with us and havin to ask for it to buy somethin and worst still...the item we wanna get has to be "subject to approval" Now have to resort to "feedin honey" to land us a better chances of gettin tat approval loan.

If i were ur fren, i would remove all fishes and place them in hospital tank w/o any sand and LRs. Reduce salinity in hospital tank to 1.010 base on refractometer. In the meanwhile leave the main tank fishless and space out all the LRs and provide lots of flow in the tank for at least a mth and durin this period those fishes can be treated in the hospital tank. If hav UV, i would run it along side with the hospital tank. Treatin ICH in main tank is difficult even if u reduce salinity coz remembered readin before regardin ICH parasite livin in low flow area like among rock works and they infects the fishes when they rest in this caves/ holes among the LRs in the nite.

Pm u on where and when. As for abt "how" u have to figure out how to come, by car, bus, plane , walk....

yup

U sure the height is 20inch. It sure look deep, suspect at least 2.5ft