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Everything posted by BFG
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Seriously, your tank is overstock. Ich will stay dormant in your tank indefinitely and will show up when the fish are stressed that their immune level are low. You will never get rid of ich. You should never add medication to your tank at all, even if it says that it is safe to do so. The equipment you have could not cope with the bio load. There will be massive die off happening again soon for you. Read more to understand the hobby. Hope your wallet is full for you to continue to stock up to replace the fish you've lost.
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OMG! Look at these hybrids and rare fishes!
BFG replied to Digiman's topic in FOWLR (Fish-only with Live-rock)
Bug him, I want a few too! -
Usually, the Tunze Osmolator would be paired together with a kalkwasser reactor for auto top up as well as maintaining the ph of the water, not kh. Since your water ph swing is slight, you might get away without the need for a kalkwasser reactor. Good to have a kalkwasser reactor but some might not agree.
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Usually, the Tunze Osmolator would be paired together with a kalkwasser reactor for auto top up as well as maintaining the ph of the water, not kh. Since your water ph swing is slight, you might get away without the need for a kalkwasser reactor. Good to have a kalkwasser reactor but some might not agree.
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Is the cabinet made for a salt water tank?
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+1 on led! With T5, there are maintenance factor to look into such as dirty reflector from salt spray needed to be cleaned or replaced. Rusty metal reflector clip to be replaced and hardened plastic clip that break when you least expected it and that too need replacing. Hot fixture is another factor to consider as I do not like the feeling of my skin feeling burnt just as I was about to add live stock to the tank as I accidentally bump onto the light fixture. Improper handling of the long T5 tube that might damaged the tube itself that you need to return back to the shop to get another tube to replace the one you damaged during transportation. Ballast replacement is another con to the T5, need to be replaced after you go through a few T5 tube replacement. There is a mark difference from an old e-ballast and a new one when using it with brand new T5 tube. All these points above do add up to the hidden cost of owning a T5 light fixture.
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Tunze. Best investment I've made for the tank. It has a laser eye water level sensor as well as a float switch as a secondary fail safe. It is also equipt with an audible alarm to alert you if the water level get pass the 2 sensor. It comes with a pump and a length of tube too, just plug and play, no need to purchase any more add on or accessories. The newer model of the Tunze Osmolator has a magnetic mount for the 2 sensor. The older model comes with a mounting kit that is hanged from the glass tank. Connect the Tunze Osmolator to a timer and attached a kalkwasser reactor at the output of the tunze pump and you have a setup to maintain the ph swing during the night. All you need to do is to top up your freshwater container as well as add kalkwasser to your kalkwasser reactor when needed. Been using this setup combo for 6 years without any intervention since it was installed.
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It is best to purchase a one step higher model than the one you may need. Reason being, when the hot months are upon us, your extra capacity chiller would be able to cope easily than a lower capacity chiller. Another important thing to note of is to modify your chiller to use an external temperature probe and place this probe in the sump, preferably the 1st compartment if it is possible. This external temperature probe modification is to ensure that the chiller is monitoring the real time temperature data of your tank temperature instead of the chiller water compartment in the chiller itself. The chiller has a flaw in the design and will have irregular kick in and out timing because of the pump flowrate. With the modification, chiller owner are not penalised with their choice of pump they used. Even a low flowrate will ensure that the tank reaches the desired temperature setting in a short time and ensure that the kick out time would be longer compared to the kick in time of the modified chiller. Shorter kick in time and longer kick out time would help in the lower cost of electricity consumption that has been on the rise every quarter. Hope this helps!
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.....why are we waiting, why are we waiting.....
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Collection detail?
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Up my bid to 300.
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Double my bid to 200.
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100
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280
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240 for me.
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The check valve you are going to install as a safety measure. It does not work as per design due to the fact that slow water flow will render the check valve useless.
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Broadcast feeding won't work for sun. Need to feed each mouth directly. Mine is in the same situation as yours.
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Broadcast feeding won't work for sun. Need to feed each mouth directly. Mine is in the same situation as yours.
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Check valve don't work. I know, installed the GF ones before. All you need is to drill a hole in your return pipe somewhere near the output that will break the siphon and prevent water from going down to the sump that way.
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Very easy to keep. I have a confirm pair, bought it that way. Mostly swim together amongst the rocks and overhang. Will not tolerate other wetmorella if you have a pair, found out the hard way.
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How much does a slab cost and where did you get it from?
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I am in agreement with Tench1. Give it time and Murphy's Law will take effect.
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How much does the tank cost and where did you get it from?
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All these shrimps including the ones on anemone are actually parasitic shrimp, they feed off their host bit by bit. If the host they find are small, lower chances of the host to survive.
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All these shrimps including the ones on anemone are actually parasitic shrimp, they feed off their host bit by bit. If the host they find are small, lower chances of the host to survive.