Jimng

Wow, so many beautiful zoos, Here's a pic of mine....

Congrats bro, absolutely good pricing, just couldnt make it there in time...

SOLID close ups and very Healthy sps...

Currently, its kept under the following conditions: -2x 150W MH -20K (monti is kept very close to the lights- ard 3 to 4" from water surface) -The flow is kept by a Tunze Turbelle Classic Wave maker, indirect flow -Water parameters are as per those for sps This gem seems to be very light loving.

Bro, pm'ed u...

Yo Bro, like it very much after seeing it in RC so got some friends to help me look for it there....

Bro, u got the wrong idea, it came in together with ric florida but was purchased separately......

This piece is very nice also.... if only i can get a good macro shot......

From a slightly different angle - pic's a bit blur, was capturing it from far and zooming in to the monti......

.....came together with some rics florida.......

it flew ard 20+ hours to reach my tank.....business class.....

Good news, local reefers - this rare piece is currently in my tank..... was looking and sourcing high and low for this......and finally...... i think it's the ONE.......

didn't see the link in your first post - the two part formula is also provided by Randy Holmes

There will be ionic imbalance if too much Sodium Bicarbonate is added, there is a 2 part formula in RC where Sodium Bicarbonate is added together with Calcium Chloride, u may want to explore on that......

I do lugol dips nowadays, the advice would be to have a separate quarantine tank and let new purchase settle in the quarantine tank for as long as possible - observe for bugs n such, it would be easier to do treatment then to have it already in the display tanks and the bug would have multiplied or moved to other corals..........also most bugs have lifecycle and a single treatment may not eradicate them.......understand that doing this is easier said then done... I would probably do that if i redo my tanks........

Geez! - When he says that he is Singaporean - i felt totally DISGRACED - a total letdown on Singaporean man..................a grownup acting like a kid......

Nice tank - your lights seems to be around the centre region, the sides are not getting enough light?

Lugol is a form of strong iodine and when i do the dip, the nudis will detach from the zoos, sometimes i see bristleworms, snails and all sorts detaching themself from the zoos, like what pagasus says, freshwater dip will also help, i would use RO/DI water....... -Jim

You will probably have to use a turkey blaster and suck them up when you see them.....very tedious process....they are very hard to spot as they camouflage themselves for survival....

Actually both have their plus points --some reefers uses a combination of MH and T5, like MH 10k + T5 Blue supplement.... -Jim

Sim Lim Tower - Basement , one shop on the left if you go via the stairs....

Bro, i believe u are right, i had heard hobbyist draining the water away and flushing the shrimps in a mesh with fresh water before feeding them to the tank.. ..-Jim

Diatom bloom are due to silicate in the water (if you use tap water straight for water changes or top-up - RO/DI water will reduce this), after the silicates get used up, the diatom will slow down, snails will graze algae and if they eat, they will surely poo - snails are clean up crew for the reef, some reefers in US use snails and urchins to graze algae and remove their poo for excellent water condition (They dont use sandbed- ). ---Jim

Zoos from the wild have a high number of parasites on them - zoo eating nudis, snails and not to mention their eggs.....you should do lugol dip and try to flush them out, i will usually take a toothpick and inspect the zoos after the dip to try to remove them, especially the snails - they may just hide in crevices underneath the zoos and you can see their eggs near their home......may have to perform this a couple of times and observe the zoos in the tank. If the zoos are not disturbed by these parasites anymore, they will gladly open up.... -Jim

I've got 1 coco worm in my sps area (high flow) and another 1 in a low flow area, both heads comes out and i do see the one in the high flow area coming out more often, I believe if it knows that there are food to catch if it sticks its head out, it will come out, try to entice it by dosing food "near" to it's opening - hope it helps...-Jim