Jimng

The zoos are in very bad shape, i would suggest to savage those that are still opened (cut and glue to another rock-remove all nudis and eggs with FW flushing or lugol dip), and throw away the rest......

Nice RED mushy......

250W / 400W MH?--

btw, please keep those beautiful pictures coming, i'm really enjoying viewing all these wonderful pieces of gems on this thread....

Bro, with u around that day, we might still stand a chance.....after you left, we look at one another and decided to best leave the beautiful gems in the tank.... but one day.....we shall come in full force....

Oh ya...now i noticed......u have very sharp eyes for details......

Wow, nice....i have not seen digi that blue before ....those at the bottom, r those photo edited or it's the original blue color.....

Good tips bro.... ....i do find that digi survivability is a lot higher than other sps when fragged......hope to see the walls soon...

Wow - 2002 to 2005, that's a 3 years old thread......pics still available somemore... ..

Many nice mushy.....

Here's a pic of it @ work in my tank...

Took a pic yesterday.....just to share....

Way to go Bro, some points to consider though... 1. There must be some shades in front at the top so that it will not glare you when you look at the tank from the front, for my tank, there is a support structure on top (i place the lamp just behind it) and it helps to block the lights from glaring me when i look at the tank. 2. NAN light tube are pretty thick and designed to be submerged in water, you can try to mod this and also squeeze some reflector inside, the reflector when positioned properly can also help to block the glare from your view. (I am not using this as my shaded area is quite small, i mod a china made submersible light which is very much thinner) 3. Need to be very careful and sure that it is still water proofed when submerged, never want to have any accident especially with electricity and saltwater. (I used quite a bit of silicon for this, also T5 wiring uses more cables going to the T5 e-ballast). Hope it will help.....

You've got PM bro, will pick up from u on Saturday if it's still available. -Jim

Didn't take any pics of it, will try to take some and post later, it would definitely had added heat load to my system but i did not observe significant increase in the run time of my chiller, i am still monitoring my electrical bill (so far not much increase, only slightly) as the weather had also turn hotter a while back. (btw, it does really help to light up areas where my MH mounted at the top cannot reach, and the colors of the corals when viewed from the front had definitely improved)

I've mod a submissible light to a 24W T5 lamp placed in the water column @ the front of the tank right on top, so far so good...

I just dont understand how a person can bring himself to kill his own children even if circumstances are bad, cannot believe it.........truly another cruel sad incident.....

..You r making us living in this little red dot proud....

Congratulations, works of a master...

Thanks for the kind words bro, i will probably place them lower only if i move to 250W or 400W MH.....but will need to do major rescaping also......wont do it too soon as everything is stable with the current tank... ...i'm thinking of shifting house again 3-5 years later........then start another new project....

5 Turbos....not a bad idea......mine is slightly bigger than 0.5 inch.....shells are lighter in color, will try to take pics and post pics....

Sure will, u r currently in queue position 2 on this frag.......the reefer with the mother colony queue should be very very long already....

Actually i agree wif u bro, my sps were all at the top area and they are on flat rock, the ones in front actually block those behind....not much space for them to grow out too....i will aim for more depth and slope for them when i change tank, not so soon though......maybe a few years down the road. Thanks for the frank comment, appreciate it...

Haha....my guess quite close....it seems i also have quite of few of these in my tank....good algae eater ....thanks for the correct id.... Scientific Name: Stomatella varia Classification: Mullusca Common Names: Description: Stomatella look like a cross between a snail and slug. Their shell is fairly flat and inconspicuous compared to most snails. They are brownish green in color and seem to stay under about 3/4" in length. Stomatella can move very quickly for a snail. Good or Bad?: Stomatella are good additions to the reef tank. They are herbivores and feed upon micro algae in the reef tank. Notes: Stomatella are active day or night, but come out mostly at night and are fairly secretive during the day. A look at the tank walls after dark with a flashlight will usually spot this critters if they are present in the tank. They will reproduce in the reef tank, but don't seem to reach nuisance population levels. Breeding has been observed during the daytime with all individuals climbing up to high points on the live rock and simultaneously releasing their eggs and sperm into the water. This can cause the tank water to look milky for a short time, but is nothing to worry about. The filter feeders get to eat well when this occurs.

I always encounter that when it starts, it will spread and never stop, if you have good parts of the blasto far away from the dying portion, you may want to try breaking the good part away to save it, but chances of survival is very slim....