tunicate

You can have 2 overflows, one at a lower level with netting over it to keep critters away when water level goes over it. If there's a way to device an auto valve to close the lower overflow pipe at periodic intervals, then you probably only need one return pump.

Yes, you can transfer them over, but you'd probably need to get more LR & sand 'cause 5 gal compared with 45 gal is like a teaspoon to a glass of water. Also need to make more salt water to top up. The net result would be like starting the cycle over. I guess a 45 gal tank would be about the size of a 2 ft cube. I encourage you to consider a sump to ease maintenance effort & hide your tank equipment.

But switching a pump on & off too frequently may shorten its lifespan.

Try not to put any live stock in before cycling is completed, 'cause most won't make it.

Another option would be to have someone drop by your place to drill a proper overflow hole(provided the glass is not tempered). You can give Aquarium Artist a call for a quick quote. He can probably provide you with a proper overflow box & plumbing if you want, otherwise, you can diy those.

Hi Ken, If you use an HOB overflow box, you're right to worry about breaking siphon. The risk increases when using an oversize box which the return pump could not provide optimum flow. The 2nd scenario applies to both HOB overflow box & built-in overflow. We generally build the sump bigger to accommodate the extra volume during power outage. The extra volume is actually adjustable depending on the depth of your return outlet in the DT.

Hi TS, I used to have a small office tank with HOB filter in my office. Although I diy a skimmer within the HOB filter, the setup is not sustainable over time due to fluctuating water parameters. If given a 2nd chance, I would make use of the cabling hole at the corner of my office desk to route a pair of hoses to a bigger sump under my desk. This way, water volume can be increased while hiding the skimmer, ATO & pumps under my desk. LS would also get a better surviving chance.

Hi TS. Tangs are poo machines, and they'll outgrow your 2 footer quickly. There's no easy way to reduce your nitrate level with them in it.

Generally, using ELECTRIC fan is a quick and easy way to lower water temp. Should not be laborious at all. Don't try to use a hand fan. The fishes will laugh too. ((

I think warm white would be better.

http://www.theaquatools.com/building-your-aquarium

It's a swimming pool.

(1) Get as big a sump as your cabinet allows to maximize water volume. But not too deep such that you have difficulty removing equipment for cleaning. (3) Compact 300 is too weak. 1260(8.6" x 4.6" x 6.3") will take up too much space in your small sump. You need something compact, yet sufficiently strong(giving about 1000L/hr after deducting head loss).

I like both Eheim & older version of the Aquabee. Never had problem with them.

But also check that your overflow pipe size is able to handle the increase flow.

Looks like skimmer pump issue. Try a different pump.

Looks like a decent plan. Below is my 2 cents: (1) Overflow compartment may need to be slightly bigger if you plan to have Durso piping to minimize noise. (2) Switch the filter sock + skimmer compartment to the front, & return pump compartment to the rear. benefits are- (i) straighten return pipe to minimize flow resistance. (ii) A whole lot easier to change filter socks & clean skimmer cup. (3) Filter sock can be in the same compartment as the FR & skimmer. If you're worried about micro bubbles, place a baffle before the refugium to force the flow downwards.

Plan for minimal maintenance effort; which is to plan for maximum ease in maintenance access. I find this a critical factor in sustainability. A FOWLR tends to be high in NO3. So plan on how you intend to keep that in check. That would probably influence your sump design on the equipment you plan to put inside. Last but not least, have fun.

If you want that, aquarium artist can also customize. Go ask him.

Check with Aquarium Artist if he has any 1.5ft cube tank set for sale. Would be cheaper than custom making one.

Hi Derrick, If you use a canister, then it needs to be in a close loop back into your display tank(DT). Otherwise, during power outage, water will siphon off from DT until water drops below your "tank inlet". All these water will accumulate in your "reservoir" provided it has spare capacity to accomodate. With regards to "standalone pump will have a slightly higher flow rate than canister and then control with valve", it is not a good idea to put pumps in series. The flow rate between 2 pumps will differ over time due to dirt accumulation(likely to be the canister pump). When that happens, "reservoir" will dry up while DT fills up. I see dangers ahead bro if you intend to go down this path.

I recommend BM QQ skimmer for your 2nd compartment. http://www.bubble-magus.com/en/productShow.asp?id=1002

On your diagram, I don't see why you need the middle ball valve. If you use a filter sock holder, the brim of the sock should be lower than the edge of your sump tank. Water would overflow into your sump rather than out of your sump when the sock clogs. BTW, try to get the 7" sock rather than the 4" type so it doesn't clog up so quick. If you don't have filter sock before bio rings, dirt will accumulate very fast in the rings. Every time you dig them out for cleaning, you'll see a cloud of shit being sent back into the display tank. (I shit you not bro.) For the record, I'm not a filter sock seller.

I think display tank need bracing. Otherwise once water go in, going to bow out liow.

Oh btw, put on rubber gloves when you handle the LR. The water will be muddy once you disturbed the water. You don't want to be bitten while reaching down.