tunicate

From what I learned, a scrubber should preferably have its own cycle. i.e. main tank overflow --> scrubber --> return pump while the original mechanical filter is still in place. i.e. main tank overflow --> filter wool/sock --> carbon --> return pump Hence, main tank overflow needs dual path into sump. (May not be feasible for those with existing setup due to space constrain, or requiring sump reconfiguration.)

Welcome. I think you're in good hands.

What is #8?

I was thinking what'll you do if the check-up shows light is ok? Does it mean you should also bring along your chiller to test it together just to be sure? Aiyoo...so troublesome right?

That rock scape reminds me of the phrase: "Bend It Like Beckham".

With a narrow tank, creating a rock wall might be a good option. Below is a posting on one of this rock wall DIY project. The result is quite impressive. And since you're ordering a new tank, you may even convince the tank maker to have it custom made for you. http://www.3reef.com/forums/live-rock/live-rock-wall-veneer-67852.html http://www.3reef.com/forums/live-rock/live-rock-wall-veneer-67852-2.html

But seriously if it's still under warranty, you should send it in for a check-up.

LOL, previous owner's "another power source" means tapping into his neighborer's power supply issit? Maybe you can try too.

I think it's a fabulous design. Just waiting for some other pump makers to get into the game... "Competition makes progress."

To isolate the problem, did you try attaching the maxspect to a different power source from other parts of your house? (Use extenstion cord if required to)

You drained your tank to redo the overflow? Don't really have to. Just reduce water level below brim of overflow box will do.

Why does right side of tank look extra bright? Is it due to office lighting?

Reused water form old tank + added newly mixed salt water. I did not cycle. Fishes transferred after new rock-scape confirmed.

From spec sheet, also have 2xwhite + 2xblue. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&section=attach&tid=93147

Yes, it'll work. Don't place above sump. Not stable & prone to accident.

Hey bro nuj244, I went thru' the same process last November. You can see my thread at: Before touching your existing tank, do perform a fresh water test on your new setup to ensure there's no leakage on the main tank, plumbing, & sump tank. (It's better to flood your house with clean tap water than salt water.)

(1)With mechanical filtration in the 1st chamber, you're restricting nutrient rich water from reaching the scrubber. (2)The PL light may need to be closer for the scrubber to work effectively.

I'm doing exactly like what you say, outsump without chiller. Below are additional consideration for outsump pump: (1) You'd need some good plumbing work to ensure that all joints in the pipings outside the sump to be totally leak-free. (2) Use flexible tubings at the pump's inlet & outlet to absorb the vibration. (3) Install union ball valves at both the inlet & outlet end of your pump so that pump can be detached for servicing or replacement. Tip: I sit my return pump inside a plastic ice-ream box. This is to collect the bit of salt water when I need to detach the pump.

BTW, what's your regular water temperature like, with pumps, wavemaker, lights,...all going concurrently?

I agree with Mengyang, isn't it the same as putting all the fishes, SPS, & clams all into a single tank? Voila! No more water changes. I'm skeptical about this....

I was thinking that if the turn-over rate is high enough, you'd not need to give up additional real estate for a wave maker.(Not to mention the extra heat) Keep the pics coming ok?

Nice looking tank. Are you using the stock return pump? What's the turn-over rate like?

What water are you using for water change?

They're from my office tank. Will tank another pic when I return on Monday.

Thanks bro. Appreciate that.