tunicate

Tank with underflow is usually meant for bare bottom(BB) setup. There are 2 things you can do : (1)If you intent to have sand now but may decide to go BB in the future, you can cut small pieces of sponge to block the gap. (2)To permanently block the gap, you can use aquarium epoxy(used for joining LR together) to block the gap. It may be a little tricky to do this while your underflow is running. If you intend to temporarily shut down the return pump, pls. check 1st to make sure it will not cause a flood.

Nice tank ilija. The black piece at the rear is taller than normal design to hide equipment in the sump area. However, I think that makes it a little bit more restrictive in terms of maintenance access. Interesting concept. Will be following this thread.

My estimate is 5-6 units.

I think you should instead replace the component that's leaking current. Equipments are not supposed to leak current into the water in the 1st place.

Hi les71, Below article is quite relevant to your current situation. http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/bionitrogencycle/a/aa073199.htm

You mean it's lying on your filter wool in the sump? Poor fella. It could have been chased & eventually jumped over your overflow. Keep an eye on who might be the aggressor. ( I suspect it might be the other ocellaris especially if it is bigger in size.)

BTW, below is some info on grounding probe. http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37071&PID=328361

BTW, my ocellaris pair NEVER hide in LR. They sleep at one corner of the tank.

No problem bro. It's my pleasure.

Nice Thanks for sharing. BTW, are your using the 12K or 20K PAR?

MANTIS SHRIMP

The Blue Devil is much more aggressive compared to Chromis. They're not really compatible. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15+28+112&pcatid=112

Yes straydum, thanks for pointing that out. BTW, I've tried a Weipro on this tank before, its performance is nowhere close to NAC QQ.

Hi Tian, LS listing is in my 1st post.

Got it. Thanks.

I've learned from your earlier posts that for a scrubber to work efficiently, the screen should not be immersed in water. Hence, I'm not sure how to reconcile this concept with 3D scrubbing. Another thought is that when algae growth is substantial enough to start restricting the flow out of the bottom drain, water level in the scrubber chamber will rise & eventually start draining out the top chamber. This is when 3D scrubbing is happening? At this point in time, wouldn't the glass between the scrubber & the light be also grown with a layer of algae, effectively reducing light penetration onto the screen? So I guess regular cleaning of this glass is a prerequisite task. However, I'm note sure how easy it is due to space limitation.

Thanks again.

For continuity sake, I'm adding to this thread as follows: (I know this should rightfully be in the DIY forum. ) On a quiet Sunday afternoon with nothing much to do, I've done this to my NAC QQ collection cup. BTW, both bits came from my NAC5 skimmer. Just drill hole, cut to size, silicon. Voila!

Thanks bro.

Hi SantaMonica, Why is there a need for top drain on your 25 Nano scrubber? Wouldn't just the bottom drain suffice?

Welcome to our reefing community. Hope this would be the beginning of an interesting & rewarding hobby for you. Salt water exerts more pressure than fresh water on your tank. That is why tank makers use thicker glass for marine as compared to fresh water setup. (1) Pay close attention to your plastic wall once it's fill up with salt water. If it bows outward, that means is being over stressed & may eventually give way. (2) Algae will grow in your tank over time. The plastic wall will probably end up with tiny scratches over time as you clean off the algae. You can't enjoy your fishes if you can't see them clearly. BTW, people do setup acrylic aquariums. But they're still prone to scratches & require special care.

I put a foot of air line tube thru' it instead. And if the 1st hole is still insufficient, you can always drill a 2nd hole.

ok, this would probably be my last report on NAC QQ. I've removed it from my sump. Clean, dried, & repacked it into the box. An observation: The NAC QQ collection cup does not come equipped with a drain outlet. Hence, with I'm on extended travel, I'd either have to get someone to help pour the skimmate away for me, or mod the collection cup to fit a drain hose to it. Actually, even a $20 Resun SK-05 nano skimmer has the drain outlet on its collection cup. I don't see why BM sees fit to cut cost on this area. Below is a pic of the NAC QQ collection cup(left) & my NAC5 collection cup(right) that comes with the drain fitting. Below is the NAC QQ specs for those who are interested: Hang needlewheel protein skimmer BM-NACQQ-220V Capability : 100L(25G) pump: atman ph500 (made in china) Pump power: 9W, 220V 50Hz 220V Dimensions: 125*85*365mm(4.9" * 3.3" * 14.3") 220V cylinder: 2.36" Water Level : 9.8"-10"

Below is a week's worth of skimmate from my tank.

Aiyoo bro, I counted for you already mah. In my earlier reply, I said between 5800 to 17,000L/hr. Main display tank 4x2x2 = 450 L sump tank 3x1.5x1.5 = 130L Total volume = 450+130 = 580 L 10x of total volume = 580L x 10 = 5800 L So 5800 L/hr is probably ok, if you're planning for a fowlr tank. And if it's gonna be an SPS tank, you can even increase to 17,000 L/hr (which is 30x). But remember, we're talking about total flow, not just return pump flow. Example, Using Aquabee3000 for return pump, you get about 1,500 L/hr after minus head loss. You also install 2x Hydor Koralia2 wave maker(each with flow of 2,300 L/hr). Total flow = 1500+2300+2300 = 6,100 L/hr Which is quite ok for a fowlr tank.