tunicate

PMed you.

Hey Vince, If you have more than 1 durso(ie. 1 to skimmer + 1 to filter sock), not all may be taking in water concurrently. Below link is 1 recent case. You may have to fine tune your plumbing to make that happen. Alternatively, make the 2nd durso an emergency one to take in overflow when the 1st one is jammed. Have a T or Y join below your 1st durso to split water between filter sock & skimmer (Put in ball valve on both sides so that you can control the flow). Specs on 1262 says that its standard outlet size is 3/4". If you have a different outlet size, better bring it to a plumbing shop for proper fitting. With regards to pipe sizing for your skimmer durso(assuming it is taking in water), need to know the recommended flow for your skimmer's feeder pump. After which, perform a siphon test with different hose size. Example: Take a Eheim 16/22 hose & siphon water from top of your tank to measure how much water you get in 60 sec. Then multiple that amount with 60min to get your L/hr for feeder flow rate into your skimmer. This way your can estimate your durso pipe size. For filter sock compartment, dosen't matter as long as your filter sock bracket can fit into it. I didn't see the need to have a dedicated compartment for filter sock. It's together in my skimmer compartment. Important to position sock such that when it gets clogged up & water overflows, it dosen't cause a flood.

Use an egg crate or plastic basket to raise the chaeto to shallow water. Personally, I think the basket is easier to implement. You just need to find the right size. If the plastic material floats, just place your chaeto within. If it sinks, flip it up side down to raise the bottom of your refugium. Note: Choose a basket with lots of holes to minimize flow restriction to your chaeto. Above sample image from http://www.organizeit.com/pomeshbask1.asp

Can lah http://www.bubble-magus.com/en/productShow.asp?id=1001

I prefer to see the foam, so I'll go for BM.

Would a simpler pull cord switch work in your situation? Below pic from http://sg.element14.com/pro-elec/17045/ceiling-switch-pull-cord/dp/1355123 I think SLT may have this item, or something similar.

Beautiful colors bro.

It shouldn't rust within the few seconds of testing. Of course you want to clean tip of test pen before dipping into water.

Have u heard of the "clap on clap off switch"? Don't even need a remote control. http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-Clap-Off-Switch-MK139/dp/B0011E7566

Anyway, I visited neighborhood electrical appliance shop over lunch & asked about the exhaust fan. It carries the KDK brand. Smallest size is 8" diameter. Cost about 13 red notes. About another 2 red notes for drilling & installation. http://www.singaporehandyman.com/Fan/ventfan/window_mount.htm

Aiyoo...no lah, private one. Smaller about 8" diameter only.

A bathroom exhaust fan works well if budget allows. If you like DIY, SLT offers a host of 12V PC fans with transformers. But look for those less noisy ones.

Barletts tried to steal eggs & get wacked by mama clown issit? Shouldn't have to worry too much if your water parameter's good. ....oh yah, maybe can also check for any electricity leakage into water.

Breeding? Notice cluster of eggs nearby?

Yes, it is always good to service them once in a while. But make sure the pipe fittings are tight after you put them back.

I think the caps are meant to adjust your water level in overflow box to minimize water noise. They should not be fully tighten.

Better still, have no door where the chiller is facing. You can have a big piece of mesh instead of a door. You don't really need a partition if your sump area is well ventilated. Otherwise, install an exhaust fan or 2 like what rivera did.

??? is that possible? ..I mean using shears on LR? Some of them are really tough nuts to crack.

I think Prox is right. Your current return flow is too slow, hence only one durso is more than sufficient to handle, thus the other durso is idling. You should notice that your return pipe is smaller in diameter as compared to overflow piping. This is to ensure that your entire tank don't overflow due to powerful return pump. A 2nd durso gives you added protection from flood in case the 1st durso got stuck for whatever reason. You're getting less flow from your return since you hook it up to the chiller. Your current flow rate can be measured by checking how much water is flowing down the overflow pipe in 60sec. Then taking that volume & multiple by 60min to get your flow in L/hr.

You can search for "scrubber" in this forum for DIY ideas. With regards to positioning the scrubber, you should feed the its screen with with water directly from the overflow. Its output should ideally go straight to the return pump.

Below is a clown fish - anemone compatibility chart. http://www.itdu.net/good/clown_fish.html

I believe the light intensity of 1x3W is different from 3.2W from 40 LED. I also did mention "a small patch". A nano scale example would be having it installed over a modded HOB filter containing a small clump of chaeto. Regardless, you should goggle for "chaeto lighting". Search results will contain much info which you're looking for.

You have 2 options: (1) Drill your tank to make an overflow box(probably need to engage a tank maker to do this for you) (2) Buy an overflow box. Samples of (2) below: Below is a good illustration: http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html

No pump should be used to get water from main tank to sump. Instead, the water in main tank fills up & overflows into piping that exits into sump via gravity. In its simplest form, the water flowing from sump to main tank back to sump is all handled by a single return pump sitting in the sump area. Do take some time to read up on the 'Members Tank & Specs' section of this forum on how others set up their tanks & sump. There're more details under this topic.

This is my DIY: 1 x balloon stick from a popular burger outlet 1 x 2cm length of silicon air tubing (used for aquarium air pump) 1 x 20ml syringe Use the silicon tubing to join the balloon stick to the syringe. Viola!