southpaw23
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Everything posted by southpaw23
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Minus short of connecting the power cord, which i had to get replaced cos it was too short, it's all done.... Here's the shot...
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Oh and as a note, i made sure to label all the wires to ensure the right wires got into the right slots on the ballast....
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Ok, here's my attempt at my DIY T5 set. Got my kit from HV and proceeded to mod it for my current tank. Didn't take a shot of the materials used but essentially, it consisted of: 1. 2x1 wood plan cut out which i specified from my tank maker 2. PVC trunking (2 sizes but can't recall the size) 3. T5 DIY kit The first shot is a cut out of one of the PVC trunking which will hold the water proof endcaps. the holes were drilled for the skrews and wires ps. Please mind the sucky photography...unfortunately most pics are kinda blur...which is ultimately the result of a sucky camera and an even suckier cameraman
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That's not what i meant silly He got a few good deals on rocks and was aquiring it over a period of time before the tank even got set up....started curing these rocks early so that by the time the tank was up....all the rocks went in and there was hardly a cycle. As for taking rocks right out of the ocean, firstly, am not sure where he's located, secondly, i don't know if he'll find any decent rock...lastly..am unaware if it's legal or not in the states... Regardless...not the common option for those in the states i would think...
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Actually Mr Crabs...that's not true...it's stated that he isn't considered rich and did most of the work himself which saved him alot....built the whole portion of the house himself and found ways to save on liverocks etc.. Even the corals in the tank are those that have been with him for years....and surprisingly, monthly maintenance cost is around 2-300 only.... It goes to show that u don't have to be a millionaire to own a tank like that...but u would need lotsa DIY skills tho....not very common in these parts i'm afraid....
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I've seen Steve Weast tank....but his viewing area is just 6ft long and the dimensions of his tank are something like 6' x 9' x 30" or sumthin....this other guys tank is ridiculous....15 feet is a heluva long! But nothing beats Steve Weast planning and organising as far as tank configuration is concerned.....
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Actually it's by reef mania not maniac if i'm not mistaken.....
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selling recirculation beckett by joe_p
southpaw23 replied to ReDDeviLs's topic in Sell off/Pasar Malam Shop
He's stated that it comes with a Rio 32HF... Upz for ur sale buddy... -
You guys really gotta check out this tank over at reef central.... Simply amazing..... http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=689929 Enjoy!
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No one said it was the best pic....and he already stated that it's taken with a HP camera.... Anyways...lets leave him to his sale...if ur not interested...let others decide on their interest for his specimen....
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For your information andy, BTAs tentacles will vary in sizes during the course of the day...i have an RBTA that sometimes has it's tentacles long and stringly and other times short, fat and bulb like....there are many reason's why the said anemone doesnt have fat tips like the earlier picture.... Normally when a BTA is disturbed and it retracts, it'll cause for an appearance like the tips are bubbly...and when it's settled, it will sometimes stretch out to get as much light as it needs and when in instances like these, their tentacles don't appear as "bulb" like... FYI....the specimen shown in the picture looks to be a very healthy one...and seems like a good buy....and one can't gauge the health of an anemone purely based on the size of the tentacles or tips.... All the best on ur sale rapalla... ps. When he said, his BTA was bigger...i believe he was referring to the overall size not the size of it's tips....
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I believe that is your main reason for the constant kickin in and out of the chiller...alot of ppl tend to make the mistake of either putting the chiller output in the same compartment as the input or before the input. The most ideal situation is to have the output go directly into the main tank...but if that option is unavailable to you, the next best thing to do is to make sure that the input and output or your chiller are in separate compartments with the input being in the initial compartment. That way heated water is taken into the chiller and cooled then released into the next compartment and consequently brought back up to the main tank. With regards to the pump flowrate. Check what the ideal max and min flowrate is for your chiller and try to keep the pump closer to the max but not exceed the max flowrate. Reason for this is the chiller is rated to chill water at a certain flowrate so the faster the flowrate, the more water gets chilled. Eg, if there is 100 liters of water, a 1000lph pump will likely chill your tank faster than a 500lph pump, provided the pump doesn't exceed the effective max flowrate of the pump. Things also to note headloss....ie. a 1000lph pump doesn't end up producing 1000lph of flow when taking into account the headloss from the journey to the chiller and also the loss from water travelling through the chiller coils. Tho difficult to calculate actual headloss, it's always safer to go with a slightly higher flowrate pump and worse case, tee off some of the water at before entering the chiller if the pump is too strong...could possibly run an FR from the Tee off...that's what i'm looking to do. Anyways...hope that helps... ps...hmmm...think i wrote about this somewhere on another thread...
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FYI...these yuma frags can be bought at abt 3 bucks a polyp in certain LFS (iwarna in particular)....the ones i've seen are orange and green....don't think your frag will fall above those sold there. Best if u state a price for the frags as opposed to start a bid as those pieces aren't exactly rare specimens... Please note that i'm not out to spoil ur sale either...u asked and i'm just responding... cheers....
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Anyone running a tank w/o skimmer but with refuge?
southpaw23 replied to somebody's topic in General Reefkeeping_
I ran a 2 footer without a sump and skimmer. Live stock was a pair of clowns, royal gramma and a goby. Just gotta be dilligent with your water changes. Ideally once a week but i got lazy and did once in two week....it's definately doable but just watch your levels and don't overfeed and you'll be fine....and that is also if nothing dies in the tank and causes a spike in your tank...in which case, immediately do a major water change 20-30 percent. -
Glad to hear it....
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Not that much different from buying a 150 watt MH......