boxerz

Not sure what SPS this is but I am selling it at $15 as I am still not able to keep SPS. Collection near Punggol Park.

Ca, alk and ph are also important factors even though they are soft corals.

I never receive your PM OO

Anyone ?

Anyone bros here have SPS frags to spare or to sell cheaply ? Preferably in the Hougang, eastern area.

Tangs need a diet of veggies to keep their colour and health.

25 C is not a must for reef tank. In fact, tropical reef temp can go up as high as 30c but normal stays in the 26-28 region.

To TS: Other than using their waste level production as a form of measurement. Take into account their required living space and signs of stress. In general, it is best not to have blue tangs in a 3 feet tank unless you plan on an upgrading. I had them before and I know how crappy that ends up in.

Yes for low coral quantity. When the corals get larger or there are more, they will consume more CA and kH. These will start to drop and doing water changes to keep replacing the lost element becomes non-practical. IMO, ME is a rather good product but the downside is that the trace elements are not pre-mixed, they come in separate bottle. therefore, when doing water changes you need to know adjust how much to add (if you are not using the entire pack of salt)

what is the size and depth of your tank ?

no offence but I have to disagree with a couple of statements here. First of all, ATI tubes does not make the T5s strong, it is the combination of tubes, ballast and fixture. Next, you cannot tell the intensity of light without using a par/lux meter. How long your coral were under the lights before they bleach. Fast bleaching may be due to strong lights while long term bleaching may be due to lack of light. Ans there are also other factors that can trigger bleaching, light is just one of them.

not advicable to dose things that you cannot test for like iodine.

I love your elegance lemon. Where you got it ?

That is brown jelly and it will be a matter of time before you plate coral completely goes away. This often is due to damage to the coral tissue which results in infection that cannot be saved. It could already have been damaged when you bought it or damaged in the introduction process. Bristleworms are definitely not the problem here.

Lemon bro I think you may give a misconception here that T5s are weaker than MH in intensity when they are not. All these light intensities are dependent on the ballast they work on and the fixture (ie, reflectors, tubes/bulbs) that comes with it. A well built T5 fixture can overpower a 250W MH and vice versa ( bad comparison though but just an example). Many corals can adapt to high lighting (not blasting them with tons of light because there is a difference). Depending on the source of light your LFS is keeping the corals under, the light source you can immediately put your corals purchased in your tank is variable. If you got them from high lighting LFS, it will be quite safe to put them under the same high light. If they are under low lighting, start them off low and then you can slowly increase the light.

20ppm nitrates will not kill them but it is not recommended. High nitrate levels can cause stress to the corals and inhibit their growth due to the imbalance between the growth of zooxanthallae with the high dissolved nutrients. Therefore, for LPS to do well, nitrates and phosphates level should be as close to 0 as possible.

They will live with sufficient algae to eat. They usually rest in the same place in the day and comes out at night. You will see it soon if it is still alive

Frogspawn and octo have slight difference there. Your salinity is a bit low here, try raising it to 1.025. Your nitrates are a bit high, but that will not kill them. I got to agree on the specimen health when purchasing. Things to look out for before buying : Good polyp extension No sign of jelly like substances around or on the tissue No sign of damage to tissue, ie exposure of skeleton at tissue area When introducing to tank : Acclimation is recommended, no more than 2 hours because it can cause more harm to the specimen. Try as much as possible not to allow the tissue to have any contact with your hands, or knock them into LRs or other hard objects. Some corals are very stressed out and trauma to their tissue can cause rapid necrosis that becomes impossible to save when infection sets in. Otherwise this coral is really nice and hardy.

you only have 1x wavemaker creating the current ?

The white stuff are their digestive filaments, and mushrooms do that when stressed. As long as they retract those filaments, they will be ok. If those filaments stay hanging out even hours after settling down, something may be stressing them.

Purple up promotes coraline growth by supplementing dissolved ionic calcium, while coral fluid I think is too liquid for the goniopora ( I don't know what the product is but since it says liquid, the solid particles must be extrememly small). Food for goniopora: You cannot drop some food into the water column and expect it to be sufficient for the goniopora. They need to be target fed, ie use of stryinge or other targeting devices and pump food directly to their polyps. Without target feeding they will slowly starve because the food they capture from the water column is just not enough to feed them. Cyclopeeze has a size of 800 microns and only some of the bigger gonios can swallow. Otherwise, any food smaller are recommended. Oyster eggs are quite popular ( not cheap) and they are less than half the size of cyclopeeze. Feeding technique: Cover the goniopora with a clear container (enough to cover the coral) to keep the food from fish. Target some food at the polyps through a small opening in the container. Give them sometime to take in the food (not too long because it can suffocate the coral). How to see it is feeding or not ? You can see the mouths of the polyps opening for the food, their polyps will generally retract. It is also possible to see the food travelling down from mouth through the polyps and into the coral digestive system within the skeleton. This is why people find it hard to keep gonios alive because most people don't feed enough. With sufficient food and care, I think they will do well and be a great addition to your tank.

How a 28G setup cost so ex ?????

14k MH does not tell much about the lighting. How high is your MH from the sandbed ? What is the wattage of your MH bulb ?

Yes reading and more reading. The more you read, the more you learn, the higher chance of your success in reef keeping.

How did it get out of its shell ? I never knew clams could do that.