Terryz_

They are filter feeder and only take in food of a certain micron size... One point to note even if they seems to be eating, some of the food that they take in are filtered out without being digested and used if they dun feel like eating it... Keeping them is not impossible but the amount of target feeding and dedication to get them to a healthy state is not what every reefer would want to do...

Sale on hold, The two frag refused to open.. Unless the buyer want to take a bet on it...

Here is another good article on Vitamin C dosing Article on Vitamin C

A guideline for those that a lazy to go to the online calculator.. For every 100 gallons: 5 ppm ----- 1892 mg VC 10 ppm ---- 3785 mg VC 15 ppm ---- 5677 mg VC 20 ppm ---- 7570 mg VC 25 ppm ---- 9462 mg VC 30 ppm ---- 11355 mg VC Dose 2x/day.

This is to facilitate those that got the Vitamin C from me and those who wished to know more about Vitamin C and its uses in our tank. Online Vitamin C dosing calculator

:thumbsup:

Lol.. Beware of them walking around.. Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

It is a morph... Might come up with a new morph, it produce the same coloration but chances not that high...

Frag C have 2 polyps @ $30 Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

Hi, Have two frag of Dragon Eye Zoas... Frag A have 2 polyps @ $30 Frag B have 3 polyps(got 1 more starting to bud) @ $45 Photo will be posted tml.. Thanks and Regards Terry

Both have its pros and cons... I have used both.. T5, Pros, Initial setup is cheap and DIY is relatively easy and with the different color temperature you are able to come up with combination that you are going for, the PAR is enough and proven to be able to color up corals and promote corals. Cons, Heats is quite high if you are using a lot of tube, Used 10 tubes for my cube tank last time and it is hot!!! Maintenance cost is high as you require to change the tube every 6 - 9 month if not when the spectrum shift, you will have algae problem. High running cost. LED, Pros, Heat dissipate from the heatsink and not from the bulb itself. Bulb life is very very long. Low running cost compared to other lighting. Cons, Initial setup is quite high, DIY is difficult if you have no electronic background, Usage of the LED is too short to prove its ability to sustain corals and also if the bulb will maintain its PAR and spectrum without 5 years. This is what I come up with..

It might die off during the cycling, not exact benefit but it will make your tank look more natural with all the liverock fauna... And you need more LRs...

First one is a featherduster. Second one is a black sponge. Last one, I am not very sure but seems harmless. All are harmless.

My favorite seafan that survived the leaking episode..

Gigantic Seafan that I found at Ah beng...

Some shots...

I got the Red Varient mah... The yellow one still waiting for news..

It is better than having no fitration at all..

I believe we have a sticky topic on the New to the marine aquaria hobby forum

Tunze 6025, if new would cost you around $70+? Chiller you can get a 1/10hp should do the trick but I normally buy oversized... If you are planning to try out and not go long term on this tank, you can try with 2nd hand resun or hailea, these normally dun last long and will have problem as they goes along... Get a Arctica 1/10hp if you are sticking with this tank, but given the equipment list, you seems to be trying it out first... Resun/Hailea, 2nd hand should cost you around a few hundreds? Arctica 1/10 hp also around more than $500... 1 week is too short and you have no liverock in the tank to kick off the cycling aka ANN cycle, this process will take at least a month to complete and you will need Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate testkit to verify that the Ammonia,Nitrite is at 0 before you can add any fishes or livestock even corals..

So for mine it is still 1 x 12v/1A DC adapter for 1 led? I just follow the Specs of the LED should not go wrong right?

That method I tried before, it somehow connects the tank together but there is not much changes in the water quality, if not wrong the water will only move between the tank when there is change in water level in one of the tank... Mine is the same as what you are trying to do, not a tank to medicate the fish in, Just a isolation tank to get them healthy before releasing into the main tank...

The glass thickness looks quite thin to me esp for rimless, the tank will warp overtime and bow out.. Need at least a 8mm for a 2ft rimless... Anyway if that is out of your concern, other things you would need is a wavemaker, a Tunze 6025 should be just nice, the return from the Canister is just not enough... Chiller is not a must but a plus to have, becos yours is a rimless, it is difficult to fix a fan on, unless you get those clip on or hand on the side types... Other than that is patience to wait for it to cycle and stock slowly...