Digiman

Adding copper immediately make sure all probs like ick velvet will be completely remove and that is understandable and advisable since velvet is v deadly! But i dun put copper becos my tank has ick so even after copper qt put into the main tank will still have ick. So sometimes instead i'll put the fish in the sump to contract some ick den put it back to qt so that it can learn how to fight ick on its own and if fail i can easily dose copper, ok i know i sound a bit stupid on this! If u can keep your display ickless by coppering every new arrival fishes, den there'll be no ick when u move from qt to main tank. But that's easier said den done.

anyway, can someone explain how to do a QT tank? i have a question. is it u put the fish in the qt tank and then watch for any disease, then treat? or straight away copper them in the QT tank on the first day. Different pple have diff QT practices. There are no hard and fast rules, but in general your QT should be small, abt 1 to 2 feet for easy water change every few days. No LR and no substrate. U can put in PVC pipe for hiding, no lightings pls as this add on excessive heat to the system and finally jux use a simple air stone to provide aeration. No need skimmer as QT rely heavily on massive water change so keep your tank small. U need to prepare medication for internal and external parasites and also other external prob like fin rot etc. Personally i've a bottle of cupramine and a bottle of melafix. I've enjoyed great success from these two products. It's hard to find a good internal parasite medication, e.g. prazipro, so if u can find it let me know. If i QT my fish i'll jux QT w melafix. I normally dun add cupramine unless it's necessary, that is there are telltale signs of ick or velvet or some unknown problems. To add copper or not right from the beginning also depend on the type of fishes, e.g. some centropyges dun handle copper well like Golden Angel. C. joculator Good Choice! C. auriga (red sea variant) Likely to get big and boring after a while, more suited to FOWLR C. paucifasciatus Nice fish! F. flavissimus Lemonpeel? A bit common and not the most friendly of centropyge. Maybe u mux hav it cos lemon ma.. C. rostratus Suggest u replace this w a marginalis, rarer and more interesting and something to wait and aim for P. multifasciatus I long gave up on this fish, getting a healthy one is jux so tough! S. venustus Same as multibar, but for it's beauty i'm willing to try another time if there's a small one C. declivis Raops are prone to internal parasites, u may wan to treat w prazipro or similar product for better success C. rhomboidalis Havent give up on this fish? Aim for something slightly higher like majorie or roseafascia or pintail, they're obtainable C. lineatus Nice but like scotts i find it loses it's vibrant color quite fast and can be ugly when it's obese. P. marcellae My all-time favourite prognathode, nicer than p.aya imo

It's mislabelled then. Yes L.sp also known as yellowtail reef basslet i think, v cheap, rather common. Kept two before but same problem as L.Latifasciatum, all die of decompression problem. Indo fishes are jux not collected properly which makes these deepwater fishes so hard to keep.

No la jux wan to add fishes slowly to prevent an outbreak of ick. I dun wanna set myself in a situation to dose copper again. Jux added a white bar mac recently, so mux wait a few weeks before adding another fish.

It's ok they are not available already. Cos if reli want to get one will not go for jumbo sizes. Mind sharing the price of LCK jumbo joc w me. Thanks.

Ok now i can see the pic attached. The pic shows a Liopropoma sp. Still undescribed i think but has been a most common Liopropoma frequentlt appearing from Bali shipment. It is not L.Mitratum. Mitratum looks like this, it's more slender:

No L.Mitratum has been known for v long liao. LCK also got a few jumbo specimen.. V tempted but mux hold back.

OMG true personifer. V tempted but mux hold back.. Agree 100%. Jocs rocks! They are not your everyday bi-colors! Go for it. One of the best centropyge plus the price has dropped so much and has so much regularity now. Yes, i kind of regretted selling mine after i've decided not to decom!

Wat's this? Flying squirrel? Looks so cute.

I've decided to not tear down (part of the reason being unable to sell all my fishes), so will carry on with the current tank. The interruptus are all reserved aleady, furthermore a bit scared to try interruptus, tank too warm. Maybe wrought iron can. Think i better stop here dun dilute the thread further..

I dun mind keeping it until it's big and ugly den donate to sentosa underwaterworld. It's always been an idea of mine to donate some unique fishes to sentosa which they can put in their display reef where i can visit next time and tell others: "hey tat used to be my fish!"

Yes start saving den ask RB or LCK to bring in. It's a v cute and nice fish somemore rare! I'll go for clarion instead, hardier and easier to maintain.

Maybe and maybe not. Will decide if it's still available when i go down on weekend. Hope they brought in extra interruptus for sale also.

Tat's why it's known as "A dwarf angel that's not a dwarf!" How many interruptus are brought in btw? How big is the true personifer and any idea of the price? Thanks.

According to the web, TOO HIGH! Recommended temp for cool water (including hotumatua) and deepwater fishes are 20 to 22 degree, occasionally up to 24 on the warmer days. These are data base on web resources and provided by pple who live half a globe away from us enjoying cool weather year round and have no problem keeping temp on the low side and hence may have overstated the requirement in terms of low temp. I'm a bit skeptical on the data, but not total disbelief. I'm currently enjoying success w my conspic at 26.5 to 27 degree although the web all state 25 max and preferably 23 all times. Chingchai from thailand has kept his wild interruptus at 25 to 26 degree for many years without any problem. I've been hoping for more pple to chime in on temp issue base on their own experience, relevant to our climate. For example i know Fuel's hulafish cant make it at normal reef temp despite feeding v well so low temp is extremely crucial to their well-being and as such hulafish should not be brought in again. Western blue are acclimating quite well at higher temp at RB. How about the max temp tolerated by bandits? I like to also see how this batch of interruptus do in our hot weather! For temp we always want an easy way out, but that's inevitable given our hot weather and high electricity bill. It's jux not practical to keep things running at 24 degree!

Resplendent price cannot be estimated becos it's not available. Hotumatua according to RC the collection at easter island will be july august. Other easter fishes like C.Litus will also be made available if the collection realize. Dun think the price of hotumatua will beat that of clarion cos afterall it's still a dwarf angel and they're reportedly shallow water and abundant but isolated at the island. There're some issues with hotumatua though cos it needs lower temperature to do well, not the easiest of centropyges. IMO hotumatua looks like fisheri, but nicer.

U can think it this way, mowbrayi is about twice the price of a swissguard and a fifth of the price of carmabi. But the problem is not the price but seeing one!

That's good. The hobby and the forum need passionate youngster like u. Hope to see u around during the redsea shipment.

This hobby can be really demoralizing at times. I've lost many many fishes before, thousands of dollars, and i told myself i should really switch back to freshwater and i did, but jux could not find the thrill back so at the end i'm still back to marine. It's good u decide to take a break. Take your time to think about and develop on your next project, u'll come back stronger and w more certitude and vigour. Hope your break from the hobby does not mean a breakaway from this forum as well!

Aussie C.Bathyphilus has no "hood", its red extend and fade off towards the tail. LCK and RD has brought in a few before. Photo below: Vanuatu C.Bathyphilus has a hood, its red wil dramatically break off at mid-body. Personally i find vanuatu hooded wrasse nicer. Photo below: Tmr one will be aussie C.Bathyphilus.

It'll not be expensive like carmabi. Prob around 1/5 of carmabi price.

L.Mowbrayi has not yet appear in Singapore. Couple of months ago when L.Carmabi appeared i enquired RB on the availability of L.Mowbrayi and their answer is their supplier is able to get the fish, so pple interested can order or ask RB to keep a lookout for the fish. Not possible. L.Mowbrayi and L.Aurora are extremely different from each other! One is from Hawaii and can grow up to 6inches while the other is carribbean and barely reach 3inches. While L.Mowbrayi is rare, it's still pretty obtainable. L.aurora on the other hand is very rare and so rare that only very few has been caught from the v deep and are in captivity. I can die in peace if i can get L.Aurora. The purple one is Mowrayi and the redish orange is aurora.

Saw it posted then disappear.. Can anyone confirm the below? IWARNA: New Hawaii shipment 27 April 8:00AM 200 yellow tangs 5 Fisheri angels 3 golden rhomboid wrasse (male) 9 Myster wrasse 8 Helfrichi gobies 10 multi colour angels 8 Pottery angels 25 Bartlett anthias 8 orange peel angels 25 flame angel 1 RARE hybrid lemon peel 1 fancy basslet 10 yellow eye kole tang 4 Jordani flame wrasse (male) 11 Hawaii naso tang

Good luck waiting. EZmarine taiwan are only able to sustain and produce Mac white bars. Dun think they've produced any white bar asfurs yet. The previous pic shown is one of their wild caught and wild whitebar asfurs in the red sea are exceedingly rare! One more pic:

Ok i'll note this down. I have one more competitor!