Achilles Tang
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Posts posted by Achilles Tang
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The Eheim 1264 is not even in the market yet! They have only brought in the 1262... where did you get yours?
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oh... i mean the water inlet at the top of the pipe column.. it provides a countercurrent. I have a tiny powerhead pushing water in.
Maybe your model doesn't have this feature.
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A true DSB should have min 6 inches for max denitrification.
Unless you mud-like sand... then 4 inches would have the same effects.
Believe you are using #1 sand? If you can afford the height... then go for 6".
In my experience... a 3" to 4" has enabled me to keep nitrates low but it should took a long time.
Unless you have lots of liverock.
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Get a pump that controls the amount of water going in.
Adjust the air inlet accordingly:
wider = more air going = more foaming action = wetter skimmate.
narrower = less air going in = less foaming = drier skimmate.
Be careful what you put in the tank... additives etc... as they may cause extra foaming, pushing more foam and water into the skimmate collection cup, causing an overflow.
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I can see the potential for this... dosing pumps.
If you can put different containers that dump at different timings... you can make an automatic timer doser that can make this hobby a lot more automated...
Cedric... looks good. I may be your next customer!
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Thanks Robe and all....
I will consider all these factors. Actually I don't think I will need a heavy-duty pump for circulation at all. I just need a pump sufficient enough to pull water out of the sump back into the tank.
I am also aiming for slow circulation in my refugium and sump to allow for detritus settlement.
My reeftecs and closed loop will be more than sufficient for turbulent intank circulation.
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If your tank is newly setup.... then I guess you can pull out the plate and smooth the sandbed back.
I see no harm in leaving the plate there... it kinda becomes a plenum of sorts now.... heh!
How thick is your sandbed anyway?
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Is yours fed with a powerhead like my H&S Euroreef?
If so, the sump water level doesn't matter.... but if yours is without... then you have to try to maintain sufficient water levels.
The valve to control the air is to tune the kind of skimmate you want to produce... ie. dry or wet.
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My tank has been around for 2 years plus... only noticed these 'mickey mouse' tunicates recently... about a few months back.
They are transparent and I happened to be using a flashlight to peer around and there they were!!
Interesting right?
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HI Hong,
I read about Chloroquine diphosphate some time back but I don't think its available off the shelves and requires a pharmacy to dispense it.
4 weeks is sufficient to kill off the velvet parasites.
So this weekend I will separate my corals and liverocks away from my fishes and begin treatment with Cupramine.
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No prob, Stenopus....
Nice colour Monti you got there!
Care to frag it?
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I am still battling the recent case of marine velvet in my tank for 2 weeks ever since I took in some new liverock.
I have lost a few fishes and am intending to get rid of these parasites by starving them for a month and quarantining my remaining fishes and treating them with Cupramine by Seachem before they get into my new tank.
Any one with experience to share on this?
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I believe it is in a cardinal fish species.... can't ID it yet.
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Montipora.
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Got this off RC...
"At the MASLAC meeting last Friday, Anthony Calfo mentioned how he thought macroalgae is detrimental to reefs because they release chemicals into the water that in the long run can be harmful to corals. I haven't really done more in depth research on this, since macro has been a popular thing to have in recent years, but it makes sense from what he said, "if you look at reefs in the world, you don't find macro present." He did say a good alternative would be sea grass or spaghetti algae.
More directly, caulerpa has a toxin within it called caulerpin or something like that. this chemical can literally burn the flesh off corals if semi-concentrated."
What next? -
Hi guys... I realised that my Rena pump's impeller cover has gotten loose with use.
It doesn't fit as tightly as before.... the pump is still in perfect condition except for this problem. I will still use this pump in the mean time as I will silicon the joint to seal it.
If I need to take out the impeller to wash it... I will have to scrap away the silicon!
Now I know why it was cavitating so much... and it worked when it is placed in a sump... the water sealed the gap and once air was vented, the pump worked again. It wasn't the O-ring.
I will investigate the new Eheim pump 1264 when it hits the market soon.
I trust Eheim pumps a lot as they are quiet as well as not being electricity hogs.
Spiff is right... I won't need a high capacity pump at all to increase my water circulation in my new tank. My reeftecs will do a much better job and at much lesser electricity consumption!
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Yup... anemones don't eat plankton.
In the wild, they catch fish to eat... so feed them something meaty.
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Why don't someone show a DIY titanium probe in the DIY section?
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How established is your tank?
They say never to put an anemone into a new tank.
The water parameters must be acceptable to anemones or they won't adapt fast enough.
They are after all... 'bags of water'. Some are tougher than others.
Is it getting enought light? Have you tried feeding it?
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What?? They are still advocating that method?
The hobby has advanced a lot... and DSBs/Plenums are already tried and tested by many to be effective filtration methods.
UGFs are considered history. <_<
Suggest you remove it bro.
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Little Giant PE-1.
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Here's a pix of some tiny seasquirts in my current tank's refugium!
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Wahahahahahahahahahahah!!!!!
In your professional opinion, which one is most compatible with shrimps? I wish to acquire the dog fish but am worried whether shrimps are part of his diet?
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Yeah I read about that too... funny... I haven't changed any water in over a month!
How do you tune a H&S skimmer
in New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby
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Later can? When I get home?