Jump to content

Achilles Tang

Senior Reefer
  • Posts

    12,428
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Achilles Tang

  1. Here's my Harry. Harry's an American Hairless Terrier. I think there's only about 400 worldwide. About 4 or 5 in Singapore.
  2. I think we should open up a thread for us doggie owners to talk about our other love... besides our reef tanks and err.... yes... wifes or girlfriends... haha!! So anything canine-related, please use this thread!
  3. U mean you want to 'soak' your bioballs in your sump... uhhh... sure... it would be no different from using coralchips to 'trap dirt' as the LFS would say. Then once your detritus starts to break down... you know the end result. You can use a refugium with macroalgae to absorb nitrates and phosphates... but you have to stock up with chaetomorpha or some other kind of algae that won't go asexual and crash.
  4. We should recreate the doggie thread for all SRC dog owners... we are hijacking someone else's thread... quite rude you know!
  5. Oh? You have not seen my doggy yet? He's a AHT. American Hairless Terrier. Very rare dog. Here's my baby boy!!
  6. If you want to install a wet/dry trickle filter, the end result is quick reduction of ammonia and nitrites to nitrates and then.... Full Stop. For a FO tank, a wet/dry is probably the only way to cope with increased wastes produced by fishes (esp. predatory ones). Nitrates are still less toxic than NO2 and Ammonia and fish can tolerate nitrates to a higher degree. Reef inverts and corals do not like ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. For a reef tank, with reliance on a DSB and ample LR, biological filtration is effective enough to reduce nitrates over time. But because the natural reduction of nitrates by a DSB/LR may be slower than than how fast nitrates are produced by a wet/dry filter system, it may build up to a critical stage where the system will be unable to cope fast fast and thus negatively affect your livestock. I used to install a wet/dry in my old tank and found that it took close to a year before my system could mature enough to reduce nitrates to tolerable levels naturally. Before that, I wasted a lot of money on nitrate-reducing stuff (newbie mistake). I think some LFS copy cat each other without knowing the theory. I believe most of them use bioballs to break down the waste from their fish holding tanks, have anyone measured the nitrates from the water from the LFS? You have to evaluate your own system... for overstocked/FO systems, a wet/dry system is probably good but you still have to find a way to deal with nitrates. A properly setup system to deal with nitrates naturally is the DSB method. You may like to check it out more before deciding.
  7. UGFs are TOTALLY UNSUITED for marine use. They will suck detritus into your sandbed, making it extremely dirty, and once they start to decompose, will forever be producing ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. You want to export detritus and other dissolved organic wastes OUT of the system and not HIDE it somewhere INSIDE the system. Please read up more about the nitrogen cycle and the beginner's guide to marine setups in the links pinned up at our New to the Hobby Forum. AT
  8. Spider can be a goalie. Nothing will get thru!
  9. If you just intend to keep marine fish, they can do without a chiller. At the most, due to increased metabolic rate (eat more and shit more)... you can put all your money into a good skimmer like schuran or euroreef/H&S. Once you put corals into your tank, then it's a different story.
  10. Just spotted a new one: scrontium = wrong strontium = correct
  11. I think many reefers in the US have abandoned the idea of keeping Moorish Idols and have classified them as 'hard to keep' species. Perhaps we should follow their cue and leave these creatures in the sea where they can prosper by not buying them and therefore the LFS would not want to stock them. Along with doctor fishes (cleaner wrasses).
  12. Yes, only the 400watt lamps have inbuilt ignitors. Better get Robe or Tanzy to double confirm!
  13. Perhaps he got knocked out by fumes... quick, Spidey, give him the kiss of death... i mean, life!!
  14. Dispar... I am goihg to delete this because you know better than to post it outside of this week's LFS report! Grrrr!!!!
  15. Hi, Yes, click on browse and then you can select a photo file and then upload it when you click enter. Your photos should be max 700 pixel width.
  16. Hahaha! I found my old photo of my tank... I think it was taken last December.
  17. I guess it really depends. Perhaps a tang that is moderately aggressive can appear more aggressive than another supposedly more aggressive tang once it is allowed to establish itself first. Confused? Give them some time, zebrasomas are hardier than the Acanthurus species. They don't get stressed as easily.
  18. What tank? My tank more than a year ago? Gee... it is no longer in existence... I have moved on from LPS corals. I bought my yellow tang first, followed by 3 purple tangs together. Very little fighting amongst themselves. They grew up together. I sold off 2 of the purples about a year ago I think. My yellow and remaining purple is Morgan's now. Fat as pigs the last time I saw them! Here's my ex-4 tangs at feeding time!
  19. Blue Tank Purple Tank Yellow Tank ... it should be Tang, if you are referring to the fish!
×
×
  • Create New...