Achilles Tang

Dr Chill (Reef Relief/Titanium Chillers) also told me before that he has designed his chillers to reduce the amount of turbulence inside the cooling coils and having too high a water flow isn't too good. Perhaps he can help enlighten us? I'd drop him a PM!

Hey... check this out! I got it off a Yahoo search! -------------- Poor operating practices Poor operating practices not only can decrease chiller efficiency, but also chiller life. Most such practices are the result of one of two situations: trying to get a chiller to do something that it was not designed to do or not understanding the consequences of a particular action. For example, one common practice when trying to provide more cooling water to a facility is to increase the rate of chilled water flow through the chiller. The belief is that with a higher flow rate, more cooling water will be available. In reality, however, increasing the flow rate through a chiller beyond the manufacturer’s recommendation actually reduces the operating efficiency of the chiller. Equally important, flow rates higher than those recommended increase the rate of erosion in the chiller’s tubes, leading to early tube failure. The problem with poor operating practices is that their impact on chiller operation generally goes unnoticed. Chillers continue to operate, meeting various building loads under a range of conditions. Soon, however, poor operating practices become accepted as standard operating procedure, and one day, a problem in the chiller’s operation might become obvious, or the chiller might not be able to satisfy a cooling load that previously had never been a problem. When that occurs, technicians often blame the weather or the chiller itself; not the way the chiller is being operated and maintained. Making certain that poor operating practices do not become standard operating procedure requires training personnel in both maintenance and operating practices. Proper training helps operating and maintenance personnel set up and operate chillers in an efficient manner. It also allows maintenance personnel to develop an ongoing chiller maintenance program to ensure long and efficient equipment life. It allows maintenance personnel to recognize and correct problems early before they develop into more extensive and costly ones. Finally, training helps operating and maintenance personnel identify poor operating practices before they become accepted as standard operating procedure.

Ah so neh.... you left that out... Good job then... once your cycle is complete... you don't have to do weekly water changes, maybe once every 2 weeks since you have a small tank. Bigger tanks generally can get away with lesser water changes (provided they are setup right). I know some reefer who hasn't changed water in a year!

I did convert a room...just for my tank!

So small? Seriously, I suggest you do a water change soon as it will prevent a buildup of nitrites accumulating to deadly levels, enough to finally push your LS over the edge. You're kinda lucky enough as it is.

Well, that's why I created the Weekly LFS report... so people won't waste too much time going to far off LFS and fishfarms, only to find empty tanks and no stock! Check out the current week's LFS report... it's dated from Monday to Sunday of the week (check the dates).

Interesting topic! I always wanted to ask about this! Logically, by the same deduction, water flowing too fast thru a chiller... does this mean that less cooling effect is passed on to the water as it kinda passes throught the coil too quickly ie. before it even has the chance to chill down, it is already out of the chamber? I didn't study physics/mechanics, so perhaps someone can enlighten me? Haha!!

Hahaha... okie...sorrie for being fierce... I just want you to realise proper reef husbandry is important as bad habits die hard.... so you have to learn the basics and the right way. Some people may get away with a shorter cycle or have livestock that survives the cycling process, but SRC has to advocate conscientious reefkeeping as far as possible and this is the first step. Newbies should follow the tried and tested way or be doomed to waste time and money and avoid needlessly killing livestock. I definitely have good intentions.... Admiral AT

Perhaps your nerves on the fourth finger are more sensitive than the rest... weird... You don't have to be grounded to feel a shock I think... getting shocked by static electricity even while wearing shoes, izzit the same as getting an electrical shock?

There is only one species of octopi with blue rings on its body. It should be easy enough to ID.

They usually fill up the tanks with saltwater and then any fish, including tangs, can be kept.

Gee... did I come across as fierce? I don't see why I am overeacting aka jumping gun. He is still obviously in a cycle, evidenced by detectable levels of NO2. A cycled tank should have undectectable ammonia and nitrites and very low nitrates. A matured tank should have none of the above. Why wait on fishing out the LS? A stitch in time saves nine... especially now that the seams are have already broken. I said to remove the LS because he intends to put in LR and it'll make the cycle worse and longer coz the dieoff from uncured LR is certain to kill off his still surviving LS.

All tangs will fight. To differing degrees.

If its gonna remain a FOWLR tank, then dissolved nutrient removal is the most important... so regular water changes or using a very good skimmer is important. You have a big angel fish so a lot of feeding is required = loads of waste. Keep an eye on your water quality... at best... you'll battle nuisance algae for months.... at worse... you'll lose your fishes. Don't go up on the bioload (even corals) if you can't get a good PS... it's going to be your tank insurance. Get a Schuran or a H&S Euroreef aspirating skimmer... you get what you pay for.

Hi and welcome to SRC! Take a look at this forum: LFS info centre There are a lot of discussions on our LFS... you'll be able to pick up who's generally recommended. Or you can do a search using the Search button (top right with a magnifying glass symbol) and input in keyworlds like 'best LFS' 'good LFS' 'recommended LFS'... the answers are all there! AT

You have a ring on your fourth finger?

I wonder when I will pay homage to Tokong Laut again... the bus journey was hell. Maybe if I can fly there... I wouldn't mind. Hopefully AirAsia will have a cheap flight from JB to KL to near that place.

Hi Planetg, Nice meeting you at PR yesterday! Here's my thread where I chronicled the setting up of my current tank. There's some info on my pvc rack here. The photos should give you a clue. I used flat pvc sheets cut to the size I want as the horizontal shelves and horizontal base and these are welded to PVC pipes as the legs. You have to first plan the look of the reef and make the height and width of the rack accordingly. My right pvc rack is actually trapezoid to cater for large LR to be placed at the back and sloping narrower nearer the front glass. (Take a look at my latest tank pix to see how my LR structure is finalised) I didn't want to use eggcrate structures as I think they are too flimsy and glaringly white. They are also bulky in nature and prevent fishes from swimming through. No problems with PVC pipes as they are rigidly strong and take up less space. Also, being grey means it's far easier to camouflage/not take notice. The bottom PVC sheet was cushioned with filter pads to be placed on the glass before sand was poured in to secure the rack in place so it won't move. The flat base will prevent pressure on the glass from rack legs (like most people would do) as the weight is distributed.... and reduce the risk of a sand grain causing the glass base of my tank to crack due to the weight of LR resting on it. The filter pad cushion also helps prevents that. I drilled my pipe legs to allow water to go in as the structure actually floats due to air being trapped inside the welded parts. Hope this helps!

With so many other tangs around, it is probably stressed out. Newcomer tangs will always get harassed... to the point of not being able to relax and eat... and die of starvation. How big your tank, btw?

Hi, in future, pls post all marine equipment questions in the Marine Aquarium Equipment Forum. Thanks for your co-operation. I'm moving it there now for you. AT

Pink lights are unsuitable for marine tank use. If your inhabitants are dying because of the wrong type of lighting use... your priority should be to change it asap.

1. Take it out. 2. Smell it. 3. If you feel like puking... turn away and take a breath of fresh air. Then scrub it off your rock. 4. If you don't... then put it back inside your tank and get a proper ID for that green patch... it could be either coral, sponge or algae or some marine invertebrates.

Gee.. is that the clearest shot you can take? It looks white to me... not green. Are you using pink lights??

pls repost your pix, keep photo to 700 pixel width max!

Hghflyer... I won't post in RC due to my some personal reasons. At least... not yet! I won't even dare try... I need a few more months... to let my corals settle in and grow a little and regain brighter colours. It's going to happen.... and my patience will be rewarded! It's gonna be a great colourful Christmas!