Achilles Tang

Approximate scale. Front of T-shirt.

T-shirt Design #1. Front Logo

Hi everyone, As there has been demands for an official SRC T-shirt, I am pleased to come up with a few designs that should please everyone. Please take a look and comments are welcomed!

Just get your calcium levels and KH high enough and consistently enough.... have ample water flow... and you'll be on your way.

That's extremely stressful for corals!! Prepare to see SPS bleaching or RTNing.... it is better to follow a fixed photoperiod and not jump all over the shop. Don't play play!

You better look at the silicon used first...

hmmm.... when I ran 800w on one side of my tank for only 6 hours, the colours of my acros were not as bright as compared to when I increased the photoperiod to 12 hours! I'm aiming for a total of 10hours in future, giving my corals enough time to adapt...

fickle fickle fickle! 400w Radiums are good... but don't last too long when overdriven...I have no experience with the 250w Radiums but I presume its the same as the Ushio Blue 400w (run closer to spec).

LOL!!! Errr... thanks!!! Let's see.... $2 x 1300 people.... hmmmm!

How in the world does your maid throw your stuff away without permission??

That is one game I am willing to pay original like all Blizzard games! HALO rocks!!!

You have to evaluate that yourself... commonsense... if your tank walls are thin, no bracing, weak rotting stand... definitely a disaster waiting to happen!

I heard HALO for the PC is out already!!!! Anyone got it yet?

Myth: A DSB in a sump/refugium can reduce NO3 in a tank many times its size. A DSB in a refugium should be about the same size as your tank to be effective. IMO, you should do a DSB in your main tank..... if you have one for your sump/refugium, its a bonus.

I have 2 pairs! Maybe I can release one pair to one of you!

Water change is necessary only for the last phase where nitrate still remains high... depending on filtration setups (usually non DSB or with fully functioning refugium)... persistently high levels of nitrates can only be removed by dilution with water changes.

Realised I should have added a It was meant as a light-hearted answer with serious undertones! Keeping marine is not just pick nice colours to match with my other fishtank inhabitants. It's an ecosystem and a lot of people fail to realise that there is a lot of interaction between species... most of them as PREDATOR vs PREY vs POTENTIAL COMPETITION. It's quite a brutal life under the sea... literally dog eat dog world... the scene in Finding Nemo where a barracuda wiped out Nemo's mum and his unhatched siblings may have traumatised a lot of kids but it's a fact that life is always dangerous in the real world.... since we have the chance to look after our marine pets... let's give them a nicer world to live in as we appreciate their beauty. My 2 cents, AT

It's quite hard to cover a tank when you have a pendant hanging overhead. You can probably just raise the sides to form a hood. So any jumping fish will hit the sides and go back into the water... if it goes straight up... it'll hit the lights! It's not advisable to cover marine tanks because of heat and PH woes.

Ahh... I have many purple acro turn brown.. especially A. Humilis. Acros can be very sensitive... a drop in calcium or alk, a change in bulb spectrum and intensity, a change in water quality... and you can see the changes very quickly. That's why I agree with what our Snr Reefers say about looking at the tank and you know something has to be done.

Coral Clams... don't advise you to start SPS until you get your feet wet with soft corals and then progressing to easier to keep hard corals first. After about a year when your tank is matured... and you have gone thru all the usual algae blooms and gained enough experience in maintaining your tank... then you can try SPS. Judging by your questions, you have a lot more to learn and it's not just a matter of application but understanding what everything's supposed to DO and WHY it works and HOW it applies and WHAT to do when something goes wrong. Plus you should save $$$ to get your equipment first... not just lights, but skimmers, calcium reactors, water circulation devices, additives, test kits, chiller etc. Are you financially committed to these expenses? Will your parents object? Don't mean to sound discouraging but you have to face reality.

You should put in more info like how old it is.... and maybe post a photo.. it'll be easier to get responses.

Cool... was it brown before?

Everything will DIE!!!! no... not really. But you should have researched before buying livestock. By the time you find out, damage may have already been done. It's far easier to make the right selection than trying to undo damages or unneccesary deaths/killing and save you time trying to catch the fish out, save you money from wasted livestock and maybe even save you from danger if you purchase a venemous creature.

I'm sad to say that I have the same experience as everyone.

Just leave it in a tub overnight. You have to use a hydrometer to measure the salinity. Temp is measured with a thermometer. PH use a PH probe/monitor or with a PH test kit. Don't add any PH buffers to fresh saltmix water... you may get some precipitation of calcium reacting from the buffer. Add the buffer to the tank only after you add in the new water change. Measure from there.