Achilles Tang

1. Simple. Just walk out the door without talking. 2. Not a problem for you surely. 3. Hate that word.

hmmm... for safety reasons right? Easy removal... was wondering how to remove heavy chains in a hurry!

I have another pet peeve! People who must add something off topic into someone else's thread to somehow bring up teeko things! You know who you are!

Huh? You insulting our Naval Divers ah? I so skinny... how to be ND? You trying to flatter me ah? Yeah lah... NDU clerk can lah!

Hmmm.... so we have a bumblebee boss here in SRC! WOW! Used to stare & admire the bees at Sembawang Camp... & having them disturbing our sleep at night... kekekeke.... parade time... use to admire some of them having the gold SEAL badge on their no.2 uniforms. Salute! Do they still make trainees swim with chains around their wrists and ankles?

If you ask me... the divers will win... kekekeke!! Gooooooo... NAVY!!!!

WAH LAU!!!!! *jumps off a cliff*

I was one of the rare and fortunate few to have direct intake into the Navy. Not regular, just NS 2.5 years.

Immediate water change... immediate use of carbon and polyfilters. The internal guts are toxic and may pose a danger to your tank inhabitants. Remove them asap (u did already right?) Something has stressed your sea cuke very badly. Find out what? Monitor your sea cuke... if it dies... dispose fast. If it lives, it will be some time before it regenerates its internal organs.

IMO, he probably had a very tiny spike of ammonia... but it was quickly dealt with the bacteria in his tank. He only tested ammonia in the 2nd week of cycling! He probably has some levels of NO2 now... he didn't say if he even bought any testkits for it. There is no miracle in the cycling process... if you have good quality cured LR that is well colonized by the right bacteria, you can theoretically start having some hardy livestock in and not see any spikes because the pollutants are dealt with immediately. Of course, that is, if all other variables are favourable. In reality, the typical newbie starts off with a brand new immature dead sandbed, inadequate amount of LR that is usually in poor shape and uncured and having little funds or knowledge in acquiring the right equipment/setup in the first place. Hence, the need to go through a proper duration of cycling.

Actually, right now... I am still in my office! I did nip out for a quick beer at Coyote Ugly with another reefer who shall remain unnamed! Clearing stuff now... for a relaxed last 2 days of the week! Seriously... Irene does whip up a mean laksa.... and I love her bak zhang... (the real ones please! ) Kenny's a lucky dude... like me... my wife's an excellent cook too! (and not because she's gonna read this! )

I just drank a bottle of Hoegaarden and a heinekan... and I am still writing fine... u weakling! Hello... lower colour temperature doesn't mean that it will produce better growth! It's higher PAR that's associated with 6500k MH bulbs that causes faster growth. 6500k is full spectrum.... unlike 20k... which is strong only in the blue end.

Did you not know that MH bulbs need time to warm up to the correct temperature? heh! Now you know!

True... any inclusion of an invertebrate technically means it is no longer a FO tank.

IMO, if you like to see your LR's remain/become pink or red... then don't ignore the water parameters & components that encourage their growth.

I think your LR is well cured enough (I don't see lots of dying stuff on it) to cope with the ammonia given out by that very tiny damsel... the danger will come when you think you can start stocking up and buy corals, a few fishes all at once.... and then there may be a ammonia spike! In a tiny tank like yours... it could be disastrous and there goes your 4ft dream. Take it slow and buy one livestock a week. Monitor carefully to see if your filtration system can cope. Give your bacteria enough time to cope with the growing bioload. It will reach a stage when your nitrates will build up and you'll need frequent water changes to maintain water quality.

I prefer her laksa or bak zhang!!! She's a good cook! Yummy!

Probably a big angel. Or a barracuda. Triggers are too aggressive, even to their own kind. Even lionfish will get harassed and killed. Usually, a species only tank is recommended for triggers. I avoid triggers like the plague when I go diving.

What are you saying, fuel? Did you just drink some reef builder by mistake?

U quoted Tanzy and acknowledged flubberina! Heh!

Like to add that you can test for it by putting a strip of white paper or plastic underwater and see if its white or not. If its yellowish, you need to use carbon to 'polish' up the water. More accurately, if you draw a thin yellow line on the white surface.... it will make it more apparent when you can't spot the difference.

If you feel that your tank still looks yellow even with blue supplementation, a very chance of it being rectified is with the usage of GAC. You probably have a high level of tannnic & humic acids in your water and the yellowing compounds are blocking/reflecting a lot of light. With regular usage of carbon, you will find your water much clearer... and the overall colour of your tank whiter.

Leave them where they are. If they have to adapt to a sudden change in lighting levels, they will experience more stress. Since your paramaters are fine, you won't need a water change to rectify any overdosing. In future, drip your reef builder solution in.

Probably a water quality issue. ATs need pristine water parameters. That is why it is not recommended for new tanks under a year. Sigh... I wonder when I have the luck to get a nice AT that's gonna stay with me...

Hardier tangs like the Yellow Tang & Purple Tang are nice! Avoid the Powder Surgeonfish family. Of course an AT is out of the Question. Clownfishes - avoid the maroon clowns. They will lose their bright colour & become extremely fierce. The perculas are classic clownfishes with their dancing fins and are docile.