Achilles Tang

Sigh! No one reads my product reviews!! AT's review on Toyogo tub.

Cedric... long shot indeed. Impellers have blades made of straight flat pieces of plastic. The reeftec and stream propeller blades are shaped like real propellers similar to boat or airplant propellers or like fans. They are made to 'scoop' air or water and push/pull it in a concentrated area.

It should go away after some time. I suspect a drop in water quality or eye trauma....

LOL!!! Sorry! Geee.... out of touch...

You have two chillers for sale??

Yes, we have macro skimmers here... they are considered entry-level skimmers here... or IMO. Kent Marine Phospate Remover, yeah.. it should work. But Rowaphos is better as I think it is iron-based rather than aluminium-based. You have to understand that a tank is essentially a closed system... what you put in... will stay there unless you export it out or process it to something else.

Hi Asfur... checked your IP... you're from Indonesia?

logically.... it's just silly and what a waste of energy if you are using water to push a prop (to push water? huh? or let water flow around the prop after utilising a lot of the energy to make it turn)... JUST use a prop to push water!! Can the idea guys... use your brain cells somewhere else!

I think it was Spade. Check it out here!

There is no gadget to reduce phosphates. There is however an extremely effective absorbent called Rowaphos. It will reduce your phosphates/silicates to zero if used in large quantities and regularly. It is rather costly though. But many of us use it successfully to control nuisance algae outbreaks. You can also buy lots of macroalgae to outcompete the nuisance algae.... they however, need lots of light to grow fast. You have to harvest them regularly to prevent them crashing. As for dealing with nitrates, I suggest you upgrade your skimmer to a very large one... a FOWLR tank needs good skimming because of the large amount of wastes produced by such large predatory fishes. I have never used a denitrator so I can't advise you how it should work. Do a search on the internet. Alternatively, you can use AZNO3 but its not a cheap long term solution... you have to use it with a good skimmer.

Seriously folks, if you have cars like this in SG... every TP will stop you for inspection. What's the point then?

What do you use for phosphate removal?

Dan... you saw mine before right? The body should be green. Where light doesn't fall directly onto the body of that acropora... those areas will be pale brown, a few shades darker than the above photo. And of course, the areas where there are shadows... chris, you can see in the photo, they will recede. I recommend a midlevel placement, between two bulbs so the overlapping beams can give ample light coverage.

If you have a high level of dissolved organics, nitrates, phosphates etc... you will grow ANY form of nuisance algae! I guess for a FOWLR tank... it'll be fine.

You need a fair amount of power to overcome the water resistance... you also need a shaft that will not corrode. My Reeftec (which came out before the Tunze Streams) uses a LG pump with stainless steel shaft. After a year of usage... the shaft would break. Also, you need to get the right kind of propeller, or you'll be ###### in water! AT

LOL! It's good to have the idea... its been asked before already. Do a search here in SRC... you will see some of the wacky ideas and experiments done by some of us already! AT

Well... there are only a few threads that talk about fragging... and its been 'taught' already. Spade's example of fragging.

Chris... actually... didn't know you picked the above coral. Those that came in were actually bleached already, the body has lost a lot of colour. Be careful not to bleach it further... I have a big specimen from the last PR shipment and the body is green as well as the tips. These bottlebrush corals don't really like too strong water circulation. Its also quite a challenge to give it good light exposure because of the shadows that are cast on its body due to its many branches that point everywhere.

Hi Asfur, Having a coarse sandbed that accumulates gunk and detritus will encourage more nitrates to build due to decomposition of wastes. Organic Phosphates are added into your tank by feeding and also released back into the water by mostly dead algae. A barebottom tank aka Berlin Method will be more work in some sense because you have to siphon the bottom of your tank daily or weekly because it will be terribly unsightly and you also have to remove the detritus before it breaks down. A living DSB will actually help process detritus (at a slow rate) due to the amount of bacteria it holds and the creatures that live in them. Of course, a properly setup DSB with an anaerobic layer will help to process & reduce nitrates. A bare bottom will do nothing to reduce nitrates or phosphates. Wet/dry systems produce lots of nitrates. If you want to use a denitrator, you have to learn how to tune it well. If it is of the correct size, tuned properly and able to cope with how you stock and feed your tank... then a bare bottom tank should work... if you siphon the wastes regularly. The disadvantage of a BB tank is that you won't get a lot of pods and worms and othe microlife in your tank. My 2 cents, AT

It's a simple question... but interesting one! Would you pay a lot of money for one and how would you propose to look after one? AT

Moving to the seahorse forum.

Tip 3 will only work if you do something good to your water to prevent algae from growing back on the rock. Theoretically, it works. Or get enough snails or hermits to do short work of the new growth.. once it get too much... they will leave it alone.

Here's a photo of my external overflow compartment with two durso pipes. (ignore the hose and blue basket.... it was there to filter my water during my initial setup.. that's a very old pix). They basically raise the water level in your overflow chamber so you don't get a waterfall that creates a lot of noise.... and the durso standpipes will drain water quietly into your sump. They also will convert your overflow chamber into a sort of refugium as the water flow there is a lot slower and since no fish get in there... your pods will multiply in there easily without predation... detritus will also collect in there... making siphoning a lot easier.

Another good link. They are not sold in most LFS.... they have to be specially imported from the Carribbean. So far, only one LFS, Marinelife Hobbielist, brings them in.

Check out this link to a photo of the pepperpint shrimp. Note: They do not have the hump of the camel shrimps/candy shrimps.