Achilles Tang

Sure thing Steno! I would really like to learn as much about photography... maybe one day you could give me tips on stuff like shutter and aperture for the G1/G2... Maybe you can also help critique my u/w shots... oh wait... you haven't had u/w photography experience... hahha... so whatca waiting for? GO GET WET SOON!!!!! YOU WON'T REGRET THE SEA!!!!

I heard that the visibility around P. Hantu is like only 1.5m?! You can barely see beyond your hand!! I heard that in our waters, the coral species is comparable to many good dive sites.... just that due to reclamation going on in the nearby islands.. all those silt contributes to the poor viz... and may one day choke out all coral species. Didn't you read about how the corals around Singapore spawn recently? I think it was at the beginning of the year or something... it was reported in the Straits Times!

Freshly-squeezed garlic juice mixed with your fishfood like brine shrimp or mysis shrimp is an effective ich remover. The garlic actually prevents the ich parasite from attaching to the skin of your fish. Go try it!

Nice tank, Wsiong! And welcome to the Singapore Reef Club forums! oh... you have a chili coral. Would advise you to keep it in a low light, high flow area. They are prone to algae growing on them and that affects their polyp extension. Also... they tend to slough off their skin from time to time... Chili coral polyps tend to come out during the darker hours too.

Yeah they do... small ones that come out of their runners... But not that deep like FW plants!

Hey Robe.... any chance that you have plans to build a DIY kalk stirrer/doser? Would love to have one instead of using the drip method!

Hmmm... actually why the need for base fertilizers?? Your macroalgae should be relying on your tank's dissolved waste organic materials as well as the phosphates to grow. The only addition you need is iron supplements. If you are already having base fertilizers and when you have a overload of DOM in your tank... your macroalgae will be unable to cope and you'll see a bloom of nuisance algae taking hold. The purpose of macros in a refugium is to outcompete the nuisance algae as a form of filtration.

I am reserving the lights for someone else who offered me. Just to clarify... the tank, sump, wood & styrofoam boards and stand are still $300 as the base price.

Here's what the stand and sump looks like. I used a black acrylic sheet to velcro to the stand so it founds a nice black uniform look and it gives better access compared to cupboard doors. The stand and sump are included with the tank. Seems like I have quite a few interested parties.... you have all been contacted... so first one to give the best offer takes all!

Steno, Yeah.... they have stopped holding on to Ikelite camera housing stocks as you know how fast cam models are churned out... They are the exclusive distributor for Ikelite housings... so no prob. They can order in for you. Yeah the macros for canons are not as good as other brands... Hey Steno, do you dive and take pix? There is a underwater photography course coming up organised by FiNs magazine... I got the invitation... wanna register with me? It's on the 19 Oct I think... let me reconfirm that later!

Hmmm... maybe a Big Mac, fries and coke would be in order? Just joking! Seriously, no reason for them to reject mysis... everything in my tank eats that.. corals to fish to shrimps to crabs... heck, even the bristleworms too! heh!

Due to demand and interest in my DIY PL light hood with timers... I have put up pix and description of it. It's 5 feet long, incorporating a mirror finished reflector, a PVC trunking in which I have the electronic ballasts, timers and light switch boxes hidden in. Current mixture of lights: 6500k (to bring out the red and yellows), 10,000k (more whitish light), and true actinic 03 lights for flourescent effects and more blue lightwave penetrations. The 9 PL lights are controlled by 1 timer controlling the actinics to simulate various dawn/dusk and 1 timer to switch on during the 'day hours'. There are also light switches, which manually control each set of different lights. The following pix (taken when first installed) shows the various lights. The blue lights have since been replaced with true actinic PL lights. (you can tell which is which as the actinics are deep purple, compared to the light blue lights) 6500k lights on only. 6500k lights and 10,000k/blue lights All the lights are on! Actinics plus 10k/blue Actinics only All lights on, side view. Shot of timers Shot of timers (oh, I used masking tape to form the hinge for the protective covers) Close up of the SG11 bases of the 36watt PL lights.

Thanks ECBM, yeah its expensive comparatively to PHs... but its unique current generating abilities makes it worth it! I like it when the tangs avoid the cone wave and then suddenly jumps on it and rides the wave, shooting across the tank! They really seem to think they are back in the wild! Heh!

I want some frags for my tank warming party!!!!

Looks like you have a lot of FW fish food left! Well... in this hobby, mysis shrimps are commonly fed to SW fish. Not too sure about beefheart, discuss flakes and bloodworms. I am sure they will be eaten but maybe they will refuse to eat them... i dunno. Why don't you get stuff like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, marine flakes, fresh seafood, seaweed etc for them? It's much closer to their natural diet anyway.

Hon, Ong and Hong, come on! Don't be ninnies! Let's see your faces! Hahaha... Hmmm... your names all have 'O' and 'N' in them! What a coincidence!

Dragging the fishy? How about this.... massage shrimp?

Hi everyone, Here's a video of my tangs surfing in the current provided by my reeftec unit. My powder blue tang, recently acquired, loves surfing the cone-wave generated! In this video, you will see a powerhead (not switched on) but I left in there so you can see the size diffs between the reeftec and the powerhead. Hmmmm.. actually not a fair comparison as the powerhead is on the back glass and the Reeftec is in the middle of the side glass. My gorgonians and the sea fan (also recently acquired) loves the current provided. Their polyps are all open during feeding time! And one more thing... my tank is very messy now as I have not landscaped anything due to the tank shifting and it's a temporary home because in two weeks time, my tank contents should all be moved into their new home! Note: this video is large and will take a few minutes to finish loading... so be patient! My tangs surfing on my reeftec!

Gotcha! Here's a pix of my cleaner shrimp doing some dentistry work on my purple queen anthia! He spent a good 1 minute lying still.... and I actually took like 15 continuous shots... !

Adrian!! Your avatar is so farnie!!! Hahhaahahaha!!!!

Hmmmm.... does this mean I have to buy one for EVERY single appliances in the house?? That's ridiculously expensive! Or one can regulate every single plug in the house?

Hi Morgan! Sorry to hear about your current predicament! Flatworms are extremely fast-growing pests... reaching thousands in a couple of weeks. For biological control... I heard that a sixline wrasse, mandarin, green chromis, assorted damsels, some nudibranch species and wrasses especially the Melanurus Wrasse can help with the flatworm problem. Here'a pix of the Melanurus Wrasse. I had flatworms before... when I introduced some new LR... but I think my six-lined finished them off! For manual control... try siphoning them off... or give the rocks a freshwater dip for about 20 secs... hypersalinity (1.030+ sg), hyposalinity (1.016 sg), more water movement, less feeding, less lighting... these are what other people have tried doing! For your aiptasia problem... Why don't you try catching your copperband late at night when he's sleeping? Use a bright torch light to stun him and then scoop him out?

Precisely why I didn't go for ball checks... (haha... sounds funny when I re-read this line!) I bought a transparent true-union swing checkvalve from the States. It is see-through so if anything gets stuck, I can easily dismantle and wash the checkvalve and put it back coz of the true unions. Flap closed when the water flows back into sump. Flap open when the pump is on, pushing water from sump into the tank (here using my finger to simulate the water pressure) The flap is made of rubber and the plastic cap covers the pipe opening inside the check valve.

G1? I think you have to order one from Divemasters Pratama at Tan Boon Liat Building. That's where I got my Ikelite G2 housing. You have a G1?

That's because only schedule 80 pipes are the only pipe diameters that can fit the bulkheads and check valves that I have purchased from the US. They don't sell schedule 40 pipes in Singapore so I have to settle for the more expensive Schedule 80. I know abt Eriks... I did ask them for a quote.. but ex!