Achilles Tang

1. With the majority of corals we keep, we won't need too high a flow as LPS and some SPS do not appreciate it and keep their polyps closed tightly for protection. If you are talking about acros, that's another story. The thing to go for is turbulent but gentle flow. There is another good wavemaking system called Wave2k (www.wave2k.com). Unfortunately, they do not cater for local voltage and they do not have one for euro-bracing tanks and need a 6" space behind the tank for the motor. Their customer service also sucks... 2. Some corals feed at night... and appreciate good water flow to bring food to them. Try putting your PHs on timers... so you get slack tide during different times of the day/night. 3. Powerheads close to the surface help in good water surface movement bringing good oxygen flow, helping break up any oil films on the surface etc. The lowest you should place PHs is in the middle. Too close to bottom and you will have a big depression in the sandbed in front of the PH.

Is he into S&M practices? It's a world-first... using a cowfish!

I wonder if they are rostered to scrub their partitions daily of algae? LOL!!! It's FW with plants too... so I am sure they are enjoying the smell of pond water...

Simply, A kalkwasser reactor is where you dump in kalkwasser enough to last for some time. Water is dosed in using a topup pump. The kalkwasser reactor stirs the solution and doses it into your tank/sump. This automatic doser saves you daily time in manually dosing your tank. A calcium reactor used CO2 to dissolve calcium carbonate media (eg. coral chips) and thereby releasing calcium ions into the water.

Last pix is a kalk/nilsen reactor... not a calcium reactor. They are slightly different.

Read Product Review Forum guidelines. This thread is in the wrong forum! Moving now.

Yazid, read the Product Review forum posting guidelines. This thread is in the wrong place. I am transferring to an appropriate forum now. As for marine snow... it is probably nothing more than yeast-based mixture or perhaps some plankton and mostly water. Marine snow has gotten very very poor results in nutritional values in a study. Hope I can find the link that show this. German coral food in bottles generally are better quality... Sealife does sell it... I forgot what's the name, it's by H&S Euroreef I think... if you can afford the time, space and trouble, culturing live phytoplankton is far superior to bottled stuff.

From what I have researched... a DSB's pros far outweights any cons. The benefits from a DSB is better than a berlin style in terms of nitrate-reduction, micro-fauna increases etc. For DSB vs plenums, they are very similar but a plenum is more problematic. Whether it's a DSB or plenum-style DSB, both are not meant to be disturbed (beyond the first 1 inch depth). The recent speculation by Dr Ron Shimek that heavy metals accumulated in DSBs and Liverock are responsible for 'old tank syndrome' still needs a lot of study... and many aquarists are laughing at his idea of throwing out their sandbeds and liverock after a few years as many of them have matured tanks and do not exhibit such traits. So this 'time bomb' thing needs further study so we all shouldn't panic. I am sure all the liverock and sandbeds in the ocean do not need 'discarding' in nature but are kept 'diluted' with the huge amount of water changes in the oceans! Perhaps that is why regular water changes for our reef tanks are a good thing with good nutrient export via skimming etc.

Posting a pix would help.

Ok ok... stop. We have violated the 'Out of Topic' rule and will hereby self-impose a 'bottoms-up your skimmate' punishment now. Failure to do so means a week ban from SRC. I'm serious.

Order what? PE-1 or 2? AT

TTboy, have you seen my Korallin Kalkreactor? I got a lobang for a good German brand calc reactor, supposedly even BETTER than my Korallin. From my HK distributor friend. Give you more info later.

He used to have a betta breeding farm in Thailand.

As long as there are enough nutrients to keep them going. Water changes, good skimming, cutting down on feedings, light blackouts could help.

Hi everyone, Here's the ranking system FYI: Title and no of posts required to attain that ranking: Plankton 0 Small Fry 30 Goby 50 hawkfish 100 Clownfish 200 Wrasse 300 Triggerfish 400 Tang 500 Angelfish 600

Wait till PacificBetta sees this thread... LOL!

Norvin, that's what I did for my old tank too!

Geben Sie den unwissenden Leuten weg das Geheimnis nicht!

The less you know, the better. *mysterious look*

GM, You are of the species Nannochloropsis Nazilata?

Bawater, Trust me... you don't want to bring over all your old DSB. It will stink a lot and what's at the bottom of a DSB is NOT what you want in your new tank. Save some of the old sand... i mean the top 2". Dun dig too deep. You should retrieve some of your sand fauna to bring over. Use that to seed your new sandbed. Dun worry abt the bacteria/cyano bloom, it's unsightly but a natural phase to go thru... AT

I would like to highlight that Petshopboys know nothing about marine fishkeeping. I have heard so many horror stories about the advice they give and their lack of knowledge. You are better off going to a specialized marine LFS (in some ways).

My favourite europop band!!!!

Morgan... you don't have to inject them. You just release kalk paste over their mouths. When they shrink from the shock, they close up their stingers and will 'choke' on the kalk paste. Aiptasia is just basically a mouth with stingers and it goes straight into their bodies and they die very quickly. They shrink into tiny balls and then roll off the rock.

Well... this forum recognizes your active participation by upgrading your 'species'! Everyone with the exception of me, starts out being a 'plankton'! Also, in reefs, there is usually a resident sea turtle and we have one in SRC... Tanzy! There can only be ONE!