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Achilles Tang

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Everything posted by Achilles Tang

  1. Hi Hon, The replacement SS stand looks strong! The previous one definitely wrongly built! What a stupid contractor. Anyway, your completed stand, tank, sump & wooden frames look great! Now open up the top and show us how your lights are done! AT ps - your white door looks so much like mine!
  2. I thought you got the stand replaced with a stronger one?? And who designed the sump? Yourself right?
  3. Using ice: 1. Decreases salinity 2. Temp fluctuations are stressful to livestock. 3. You need a huge volume of ice to cool tank water but chances are you will see drastic cold spots near the ice block and livestock near that area will get stressed. 4. What happens when the ice overcools or undercools? It's too troublesome to keep adding ice/remove ice when the ideal temp is reached and to maintain it at that temp.
  4. Ok.... decided to lower price to $380 as I need immediate cash! HURRY HURRY HURRY!n
  5. Yes the skimmer will export out the processed nitrates using AZNO3. Using sugar, I have no idea coz it's a bacterial bloom.
  6. Cool, Robe! Have you used it before? So you know whether it affects LS? How much is it? Can do a product review? Thanks!
  7. Superglue is recommended only for very light small SPS frags or soft corals and gorgonians. It's impossible to glue LR with superglue!
  8. I have been using the Wessbond Aquapatch Wet Surface Epoxy Putty for some time already and it feels, smells, looks and works exactly like the versions sold in LFS ie. green with a white centre. The Wessbond Aquapatch epoxy come in a much smaller tube at 35g and if you shop around, you can prices ranging from $4.90 at commercial DIY shops and at 1 or 2 dollars lesser if you go to neighbourhood hardware shops. Application is similar to the LFS version: cuts or break off estimated amt of epoxy, knead until the green and white portions before totally blended and white. Apply white mixture to the surface of the frag or rock and it will harden within 15 to 20 mins. Squeeze as much of the epoxy into the cracks of the rock so it will have a tight grip. As frags can be rather heavy, it may be necessary to use a larger amt of epoxy to anchor the frag to the rock. Normally, to prevent the weight of the frag from deforming the epoxy, I will let the epoxy on the frag harden for a while before I attach it to the rock. Attaching 'fresh' can be frustrating as the epoxy doesn't hold and grip and may even crumble. So let it soak in a container of water to cure and once 80% hard, it can be applied to the rock and will retain its grip and shape. A good suggestion, courtesy of TTBoy, would be to tie the frag with fishing line so that in the event that the epoxy wouldn't hold, the frag won't tumble behind rockwork and be lost. As with such underwater epoxy, the icky feeling on the fingers and the smell is a major turn-off... hee hee... but so far, I have not seen any side-effects from using this epoxy. Be careful when buying epoxy for use in a reef tank, some of them are for fixing metal and may contain metal compounds for strength so please check the labels so you won't get the wrong kind of epoxy. Some aquarist may report their skimmers foaming a lot more after using epoxy but rest assured its a temporary thing. I hate to think how skimmerless tanks may react!
  9. Yes, that is what I am using now... and what I recommend to Morgan to go get. Cheap and I have been using it for a long time already. Product review for it is up!
  10. If you can drive a truck over to my place... I 'll see what I can do... but it's a T loan only ah!
  11. Phang, if it is not at plague proportions like Morgan's tank before we nuked it... then dipping makes more sense... rather than risk your whole tank unless you can do an immediate 100% water change like morgan did... hee hee.... or maybe I can loan you my Alvyfoamer skimmer for a few days...
  12. AZNO3 has been shown to reduce nitrates dramatically within a few days. Try it. I used it before I made my DSB do all the hard work and cheaply too!
  13. Actually, flatworms are known to grow to plague proportions when they is a lot of dissolved nutrients in water and especially when the water temperature is high. If you have these under control, you should be fine! *crossed fingers* When I took my refugium offline and water temp went up to room temp for a few weeks... i noticed a few flatworms on my glass... (see my baby harlequin thread for a pix).
  14. To reduce nitrates effectively: 3 letters: D S B
  15. I'm sorry guys, that doesn't sound like ich, it looks like symptoms of something much more deadly... marine velvet. It is a certainty that they are going to be a goner, even for a hardy fish like clownfishes... keep your fingers crossed. Marine velvet parasites actually 'dissolve' the flesh of their victims to feed, that is why you see 'strips' of stuff on them, it's their skin and mucus slime.
  16. LOL! You're not gay are you, Tanzy? JOKING!!! I thought that was a sight for sore eyes.... or is it the cause of sore eyes!
  17. What exactly happened between Beckham and Fergurson hah?
  18. http://www.advancetransformer.com/techcent...ter/hid/HID.pdf Good Info, PDF document.
  19. Sanjay's DIY Guide to Metal Halide Lighting Systems http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty/s/b/sb...mhlighting.html
  20. This would be nicer but I have no idea where to get them.
  21. *Dons anti-flatworm gear* Reporting for duty, SIR!
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