Achilles Tang

WOW!! So many birthdays these few days! COngrats and grow more white hair!

Can the kalk reactor come with a flat PVC base? It look's rather unstable... i don't want my maid to knock it down with a mop or by my dog playing around.

Goniopora

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I have some mussels in my tank.. more for fun and experimentation! They are filter feeders, don't need light.

Take note that if your water temp reaches the high end of 29 - 30 consistently, it is possible to see your hard corals like octopus, bubbles lose colour and turn brown due to bleaching.

I think you should stretch it out first. To me it looks weird as the edges seem to be parallel to each other and causing light beams to bounce off each other and not back into the tank.

Woah... morgan spent a bomb!!! I only got 4 pcs this time round... heh heh.

For me, as long as there is an element of risk, I will have to sacrifice it. A model citizen flame angel I once had eventually couldn't ignore its instincts and began pecking at my clams. What do you know?

Hmmm.. that sounds just about right for that depth while keeping light-loving acros... you should ask Robe for confirmation.

Two questions: 1. For those who want a saturated kalk solution and have PH lowered at same time... we use vinegar... where and how do we dose vinegar in this system? 2. Is the pump for the kalk reactor constantly running? Or switched on only when the float switch is activated at the same time water is mixed in?

Intensity guys... you can have a 150w 6500k and it won't beat a 1000w 20k.....

Starphire glass is extremely clear and has less distortion when viewed at an angle. I used to get headaches from looking thru the glass of my old tank. I don't get it with my starphire. I don't think there is major structural problems compared to ordinary float glass... better to go thicker just in case. The edge of my glass panes are all bevelled.. are you referring to it? Starphire glass is controversial... most of the reefers who been to my house say that the glass is extremely clear... some can't tell any difference.. to me, I want to view my corals and especially my clams close to their true colours and not with an added green tint of ordinary glass. My logic is... if this is gonna be my show tank.... it's gonna be extremely important to get clear glass... just invest the money and have no regrets... esp since my tank is to view from the front only and it's a wall concept. AT

I suggest you double check your PH levels with another set of test kit. Sometimes, expired or faulty batches of test kits will give you erroneous readings. Test your KH as well... and report back.

Well... how about you guys have this game on the 1st Anniversary BBQ party day? Then once hungry, you can help finish up the food? We rented a bungalow so it's easy to bathe and freshen up there! I am sure there's a lot of open spaces to play football there!

Closed on Mondays.

Hi Nivlac, It has been a long long time since we saw each other! How have you been! Oh man... your pratas are beautiful... I know how you feel because we used to cheong for the same ones then! Sorry to say this... but you should know better about introducing fishes which are known to peck on/eat LPS corals. Now you are reaping the consequences. It's not like the fish was a hitchhiker or something... I wish you luck in catching the angel... and I hope this will be a lesson to not just you but all... on researching before buying on impulse. You could have saved so much $$$ and heartache. IMO, you can try draining your tank to very low water levels during the next water change.. I can lend you my two big Toyogo tubs.... and just scoop the fish up once it's lying on the sandbed. Then quickly fill your tank up again. If you have a fast pump, it should be a quick half hour job. I am sure he will be easily removed once he is on the sandbed or if he is under the rocks, to use a ruler and move him out into the open for easy scooping. I think introducing ich is really a bad idea...

$650 for just my front sheet.

Whether you are Singaporean, Malaysian or Martian, obey the houserules or leave. No flaming, no malicious talking, no hate-mongering, no fighting. We are all hobbyists here and let's keep to what we are here to talk about... our love for the hobby and not bring in our social, religious or political showmanship here.

Possibly if they are acclimatized properly.... Anyway 800watts is nothing compared to natural sunlight over the reefs... some reefers in the states use 1000w lamps. Some SPS corals are exposed to intense lighting and will not hold their colour under anything less (barring all other factors like water circulation, water quality, correct water parameters etc).

My turqoise stag is still turqoise! I have it directly under a 400watt 6500k (it gets light from the 400w BLV Blue also. My last purchase I got an even brighter turqoise/blue tip stag colony and this one gets blasted by 800watts directly. Really hope it'll retain its colours. Here's the turquoise from 2 shipments ago,

Hi Benny, Yes, that was me! Starphire glass is not mineral glass or sapphire crystal.... they are not scratch-proof and are just like ordinary glass. They just have a very low iron content so the green tint is no longer present. You need a thicker pane of starphire glass to compensate for slightly weaker structural tolerances. The Starphire pane compared to ordinary float glass! Both 12mm thick. Viewed sideways through 2 feet. Starphire on left, ordinary float glass on right. Starphire on right, ordinary float glass panes on left. You can literally see through clearly to the other side with the starphire glass! Not so with ordinary glass!

Please don't tell me it's a Titan trigger!!!!

My most outstanding piece is this small but beautiful staghorn colony. It's an amazing rich purple upper body, fading to blue and then lavendar green. Apologies for the photo quality.. but it's an max zoom and hard to photograph under Ushio Blues.

Best wishes to you!