Achilles Tang

Location info: PSA Singapore Expo Pte Ltd. 1 Expo Drive #01-01 Singapore 486150 Tel: (65) 6580 8308 Fax: (65) 6580 8300

Aquarama 03 website

Show : AQUARAMA 2003 The 8th International Aquarium Fish & Accessories Exhibition & Conference New Show Date : 30 October – 2 November 2003 (Thursday – Sunday) Venue : Hall 3 Singapore Expo 1 Expo Drive Singapore 486150 Total Gross Area: 10,000 sqm Targetted Trade Visitors: 5000 Targetted Public Visitors: 20,000 Build-up: 27 October (Monday) 2.00pm-10.00pm 28 October (Tuesday) 29 October (Wednesday) 9.00am-10.00pm 9.00am-10.00pm Tear-down: 2 November (Sunday) 7.00pm-10.00pm 3 November (Monday) 9.00am-5.00pm Admission : Trade Visitor By Registration (Minors under age 16 are not permitted during trade days) 30 October (Thursday) (10.00am-6.00pm) 31 October (Friday) (10.00am-6.00pm) 1 November (Saturday) (10.00am-1.00pm) Public Visitor Adult S$8 per entry Child S$4 per entry 1 November (Saturday) (1.00pm-8.00pm) 2 November (Sunday) (10.00am-7.00pm) Sub-events Fish Competition : Benching In 28 October (Tuesday) Judging Presentation of Grand Trophies Presentation of Trophies Benching Out 29 October (Wednesday) 30 October (Thursday) 1 November (Saturday) 2 November (Sunday) Exhibitors' Nite: 31 October (Friday) Exhibitors' Product Seminar: 30 October - 2 November Conference: 30 October (Thursday) 1.00pm-6.00pm 31 October (Friday) 1 November (Saturday) 9.00am-6.00pm 9.00am-1.00pm Farm Visits : 2 November (Sunday) 9.00am-5.00pm

Sheltie, Welcome to SRC. I think you used the polling feature incorrectly. It should be a question... followed by multiple choice. Like : What vehicle is fastest? a. Ferrari b. Beetle c. pickup d. lorry To answer your question: I think you need to read up more about the cycling process as I think you don't really understand it enough? Pls read the pinned up links in the New to the Marine Aquaria Hobby forum with regards to cycling process and cooling requirements of marine tanks. What do you mean by 'normal cycling'? I'll help you on your way later but the basics you have to learn first on your own coz a lot of info is all there... IMO, spoonfeeding will cause a short-circuit somewhere! Hehehe!!!

Same.

I think in your case, your coral chip sandbed is not a source of denitrification help but actually contributes to high NO3 as detritus and uneaten food particles are trapped in there. What I suggest: 1. Drain out as much water as you can without disturbing the sandbed/detritus into a seperate container. 2. Remove your LR (give it a good rinse in seperate saltwater bucket to remove detritus, don't reuse the SW). Keep water well circulated in the temporary housing container 3. Transfer all livestock out... make sure they are not stressed and well oxygenated. 4. Remove all the coral chips, give your tank a good wash. Lay the new sandbed in with as fine sand as possible.... at the least, it must be #1 sand. #0 is best. Try for 4 inch minimum with #0. #1 at least 5 to 6 inches for best results. 5. Replace all your SW. 6. Replace all your LR and livestock. 7. Do small water changes in the next few weeks. Since your old sandbed wasn't functioning as a DSB in the first place, you don't have to worry about hydrogen sulfide. So you won't probably get an ammonia spike as your LR was probably helping out with most of the biological filtration. Now you just have to wait till the anaerobic bacteria will colonise the lower depths of your DSB and..... zero nitrates will be realised in a few months time! A DSB takes about a year to fully mature.... Good luck with your exercise! AT

Extracted from this yahoo on BRO in Singapore waters "....In total three casualties have been reported, of which two have been in Australia and one in Singapore. The danger is nevertheless that present in Australia that in certain regions there are special signs saying "Danger - Blue Ring Octopuses". In fact it is not well known, whether all species of the genus are dangerous, as not all of them have been researched so far and some species regularly are handled with by humans without any known casualties." I have no idea how old this article is.... so perhaps the above info on BRO danger is outdated?

You can BRO in Singapore waters.

If its little white dots, then its ich. You can try hyposalinity instead of copper-based medication... tangs don't seem to tolerate it very well. If its dots and peeling melting flesh, it's marine velvet. It's a goner. Sorry.

It's the living creatures on the outside that has died and are rotting eg. sponges, tunicates, algae. I suggest you pull the rock out and give it a good scrub with a brush to remove all the decaying stuff.... give it a good rinse with saltwater... and you can reuse the rock. (just wear a nose plug or use tiger oil!) I think you should have enough ammonia to kickstart your cycle already... you don't need an overload of ammonia. Don't forget to have water circulation or things may get worse.

Is it a new tank? I see more clams than anything else! Can you tell us more about your lighting?

Wahaahaa..... oh i see... well, SPS corals may change colour and amaze you later... given the right lighting, water & tank conditions. I do see some green tint on some parts of your frag.... it's not entirely dark chocolate brown where it could take ages to figure out the original colour. What's your water parameters like? Calc and alk?

Well, from my limited experience, it does seem that frag has the potential to turn green or even blue! Why don't you ask the fragger what colour is the parent colony since it grew up under MH?

New growth parts will always be lighter in colour compared to the main body. Nice growth! How about squeezing in more T5s and perhaps you'll see the frag change to be more colourful?

oops... are you offended? If I was sarcastic, I would have used another smiley! Well, your question was kinda.... err... kinda odd. My answers were quite direct for that question. People buy a lot of strange things in this hobby... some people like Mantis Shrimp, especially 'peacock' mantises, they have beautiful colours. Relax dude.... AT

1. Free decimation of fish and invertebrates in your reef tank. 2. Free rockscaping. 3. Free MC due to thumb being split.

I think public education is the key factor here. Just like most people know that vipers or cobras are deadly. If the newbie marine LFS people don't even know... how are they supposed to educate the public or safeguard the public by not putting them where its easily accessible? Let's continue to do our part to educate people... in a humble way of course!

Reverse or forward flow... you are making the sandbed into a trap for detritus and creating conditions where anaerobic bacteria will never have a chance to thrive in. Don't you want a biological system that helps you process nitrates in the long run?

The problem with Blue Ring Octopuses is that they are not that easy to ID. Unless very disturbed and flashing its flourescent blue rings, any customs officer will think it's just an ordinary brown baby octopus. IMO, blue rings should be banned... it's an accident just waiting to happen. I am actually surprised it hasn't happened yet. Your incident is not new. Since I started reefing, I have come across a few incidents where reefers have told me about them having to 'save' people by screaming at them not to touch or buy BR octupuses out of ignorance.

A canister filter does not provide oxygenation for your tank. Dieoffs during the cycling period will cause pollution. If you forget to turn up water circulation with powerheads... well... its obvious more things will die.

Copper in a marine reef tank is disaster. I suggest you start all over again after giving your tank a good scrub and cleaning to make sure that no more copper remains in your tank. You can't keep inverts if you copper in your tank.

Sounds bad. Looks like your tank has crashed. Your ammonia spike has overwhelmed everything. I am surprised that a thumb-sized market prawn can cause such a massive spike. Can I ask if you have failed/forgot to turn on any water circulation devices? A drop in oxygen during the cycling period will cause catastrophe as your living organisms do require sufficient oxygen during this phase.

Uhmm... why are you selling it so quickly? You just sold off your Hailea HL-080CHV a month ago for this right?

Use the search function. This topic has been repeated and covered many times. Keywords: cycling process, liverock dying, stink, cycle, LR. LYFDTW.

Prepare to spend about $10,000 minimum on a good enough setup for a fully stocked SPS tank including tank, lights, chiller, water circulation, calcium reactors, addtives etc and about $300 monthly on electricity, supplements/additives, filtration stuff etc, excluding livestock replacement if you have an RTN episodes, heatwave, tank crash, accidents etc. You will probably spend a lot of money to stock up a tank as well, around $2.5k including LR, sandbed etc. excluding the money and time you will need to spend running all over Singapore hunting for the best looking colonies. So realistically, $12.5k seems to be just about right?