Achilles Tang

Report on other parameters first. We won't be able to troubleshoot if you don't give us all the variables.

oops... bawater and I answered at the same time... How's that for service?

Your cycling is complete when you register nothing but nitrates. I mean that ammonia and nitrites are zero. Now you have to solve the removal of nitrates in your system. This has been covered before in countless threads. Do a search. Ph 8.6 is on the high side but acceptable. PH will drop naturally over time, the use of a calcium reactor will also speed up PH drops due to the CO2 introduced into the water. Your fishes probably died due to PH shock. Have you measured the fish bag water parameters? Don't be surprised if the LFS water only has around PH 7.8.... so your fish suddenly exposed from PH 7.8 to 8.6 is a guaranteed death sentence... take your time to acclimatize your fish. You know how to do this right? Your snail can die from many things including old age, predation, ammonia, nitrites... did you get a spike somehow? Did you do anything out of the ordinary recently? What's your current water parameters besides PH?

Ah Siao, We don't allow commercial sales here in SRC if you are not a sponsor. From what I understand, this is not a 2nd hand unit? Pls clarify with me on your other sales as well. AT

Alright! Orders are now closed! T-shirts are at $26... I hope the payments are in coz I will be paying the T-shirt guy once I give him the designs. Going to check my bank account soon for final tally. AT

Peeling? Flapping? It could be STN, slow tissue necrosis - a form of tissue recession?

Nope. No such thing. Use a powerhead to help you dissolve salt. Also... add the salt to water and not water to salt. That's the proper procedure.

I have stated my reasons before why I think chatrooms don't really work. Also... a lot of crap goes on in chatrooms and its does take up bandwidth one way or another. Also I rather newbies seek advice from the threads here rather than a transient atmosphere like a chatroom where you can't know if you're getting good advice or not and even properly verify who you're chatting with. At least in this forum, things get moderated. Besides, the responses here come thick and fast... I am not going to hang around in a chatroom all day...

Believe me, the SPS nuts here in SRC have talked about this many times. Unfortunately, I think the reason why its not practical is because you need to have some form of mechanism to lift the LR and the corals up out into the air or have some form of water drainage to lower the water level, exposing the corals. No. 2 is because our MH bulbs are very hot and high in UV... its highly possible that you may burn your corals and how do you know when enough is enough if you want them exposed? No. 3... do you really want to deal with all the mucus slime produced after you dip them back into the water?

Click here for some of our threads on getting rid of aiptasia I bought peppermint shrimps from Marinelife Hobbielist and they really love to shred aiptasia to bits and consume them within the space of half a minute. Unfortunately, I lost sight of them for a week already.... my tank's just too big.. haha. I used to use kalkpaste injection method. Works great but you have to exercise caution.

He probably had a wet pocketful of slime by the time he got home... if its a quick pick and go job.

Photos restored!

Happy birthday! We are in the same boat...

Hurry hurry! Orders close today. Make your payments by today also. I aim to collect & distribute our T-shirts by end of next week!

Off my head.... many methods... simplest to hardest. 1. NNR via DSB, LOTS of LR. 2. Get a very good skimmer to export dissolved organics 3. Setup a refugium with macroalgae and harvest regularly. 4. Use AZNO3. 5. Use a denitrator. 6. Change water regularly.

LOL... and pray tell me... what happened? You left the chiller off?

That's not me... that's my wife!

Errr.... thanks for the compliments regarding my tank but frankly, every RC TOTM are beautiful in their own right. I wish that we locals have access to some of the beautiful SPS corals that they are able to get and we can't due to supply and demand/better margins from US/Europe/Japan. I won't regard my tank as perfect yet and there are quite a few things that I can improve on in terms of hardware to create the ideal conditions but its progressing slow and steady... so I will have to give my corals a bit more time to display their 'happiness' and hopefully reward me with bright colours and good growth. SRC will be announcing our own TOTM competition very very soon... The mods and I will be finalizing the terms and conditions, judging criteria so.... hang on tight!

The ending was sad.... to have *** and ******* die. I enjoyed the show. Still have many many questions but I won't melt my brain trying to express them.

All my pumps used for my reeftec had their stainless steel shaft broke off after approximately one year of usage. To be fair, i switch my pump on and off a couple of times a year.

At this level of hyposalinity, your parasites will not be able to survive for long... good for FO tanks, but no inverts will be able to live for long too...

Man! Another theft??? The last one that was highlighted here in SRC was about a year ago right?? Oh man... so sorry to hear this happened again... man.. he should really install cameras!

Hey dude, what's your water circulation like? Slow right? I see that you can keep a bubble coral amidst SPS, which means that you don't have enough water circulation. Your SPS will do better when water circulation is high... whereas your bubble coral will be battered. You have to decide which one is more important to you... My 2 cents, AT

$300 electrical bills?? I have not even hit $300 inspite of my high wattage and big chiller! How in the world did you hit $300? Dun forget to upgrade your shock absorbers!

Ok guys.... please note that final orders will close by this Sunday. Collection of T-shirt : NEXT WEEKEND!