Achilles Tang

Huh? You mean Richmond?

A.R.M. can dissolve at PH 7. But at a slower rate than the usual 6.5 or 6.8.

60!!! Hope it's going to be a long-termed thing!

Loctite Superglue gel.

Nothing lah... just acting cheapo!

I recommend using superglue gel. It's thicker and takes slightly longer to harden, giving you time to twist and make adjustments. Also other superglues are very liquid and run off very easily all over the place! In rounded uneven areas.. they don't even enable you to have any surface grip coz the glue doesn't even contact the frag enough.

Yup... phyto is microscopic unicellular algae. They need to be suspended in liquid as a delivery medium when live. The cell count in DT's is very high so it's more value for money compared to water mixed with pea flour or yeast! Anyway, comparing DTs to Combisan/Marine snow is like comparing a T-bone steak to soup in a cup instant meal!

Spidey speaks truely.

They will inflate and deflate all the time. Is yours shrinking in size already? How long have you had it? They are non-photosynthetic... changing the lights doesn't help or affect it in any way. They are not recommended for the reef hobby... too difficult to keep alive without crashing your tank due to nutrient overload.

Use a plastic pinch valve. Available from most FW shops.

Oh... and the 90% water description is usually for Combisan... with Marine Snow not very far behind.

Listen to what Ron Shimek says... he has done a lab analysis of all the various foods marketed for the marine aquarium hobby. Let's just say he doesn't have a very high opinion of the bottled 'liquid nutrients' commonly sold. These are his very own words quoted from a thread in RC... "But the other liquid additives tested, Marine Snow, and Combisan, respectively had almost no or no food value." Anyway... if you don't trust me about the value of phytoplankton vs Combisan or Marine Snow... just do your own search on the internet and RC. I only do what's best for my tank after I have done my research.

What in the world is a corn stick?? I thought for a moment you're at a Pasar Malam and bought some steamed corn in a cob to eat! And you bleeding from a wound coz by it? Who taught you this phrase "corn stick" LR?

Would you prefer paying the same amount of money for 90% water? With maybe 10% being of dubious nutrition with unverified contents such as yeast? Or phytoplankton which is 100% usable & nutritious, high in vitamin B12 and highly unsaturated fatty acid EPA? To illustrate... you have $10 to splurge on coffee... if coffee is the same price everywhere... would you prefer to get your coffee from Starbucks or McDonalds. Anyway... its your reef... you can put in rubbish or you can put in good stuff... its just money.... spend it well or spend it foolishly. It doesn't apply just to coral food.

Someone must be real proud her hubby flies one of these babies!

Me!!! *jumps up and down* me!!!

It's only privvy to the 4 musketeers. Sorry.

... and properly cycled and setup with a proper filtration system.

Look into the Plankton Culturing Forum please. Thank you.

Red Cross... oh wait... it's on the exterior, yes?

I don't see the similarities... I sit in TTboy's Audi TT all the time...

Red Cross? Err... pm me... I am lost! I thought it was 'collision alert'... and '60'?

We don't usually recommend hobbyists (esp. newbies) buying doctor fishes because they are not a hardy fish and usually die in captivity due to poor acclimatization and lack of food after the parasites have been removed from the tank. Their removal from the seas also has a negative effect on the reefs. Alternatives to consider are expensive and rarely imported Carribean neon gobies and inexpensive cleaner/skunk shrimps. I myself have refrained from purchasing a cleaner wrasse (doctor fish) for more than 2 years and a half... until I hunted down a particular specimen that was kept for a few weeks and confirmed greedily eating prepared meaty foods! This is indeed rare and therefore a very good acquisition IMO. Most cleaner wrasses die within days from collection stress/poor acclimatization. And those that last for more than a couple of weeks... will die from cyanide poisoning or starvation. Do NOT listen to LFS advice that every marine tank needs a cleaner wrasse to clear the tank of ich. Ich can be fought and dealt with in many ways... and the doctorfishes are NOT the answer.

It's one of Tanzy's family cars.

Watercircle.