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Hi Fellow Reefers, My name GQ and here to share about my tank Spec Tank: Red Sea reefer 350 wavemaker: Nero 5 and Rossmont M7200 Return: Rossmont Doser: Kamoer X4 plus and F4pro Lights : 3x AI hydra 26, using signature series spectrum skimmer: Red sea skimmer 300 chemical filter: activated carbon and GFO in mesh bag Running refugium plus algae scrubber both powered by Ai Fuge. ATO: Using red sea inbuilt gravity fed Top off tank Chiller: Hailea HS 90 Dosing: Red sea ABCD plus Redsea calcium and Alk. Fish list Yellow tang, dory, 2 bicolor anthias, 3 chromis, 1 foxface, 2 nemo, 1 scooter blenny, 1 lawnmower, 1 leopard wrasse and 2 cleaner shrimp 2 hermit, and quite a few conch,nassarius, cerith, and 1 larger serpent star for sandbed control and some turbo snails. Water params Alk 6.9-7.2 calcium: 400-450 Mag:1450-1500 (consumption very low, never dosed since day 1) nitrate :1-5ppm (show up as yellow on api kit) phosphate: 0.05 to 0.15ppm (hanna ULR) I started reefing in 2017 started off with a Nano, Cade PR400 with hang on back skimmer refuge, started well and corals growing fine but hand itchy want to follow the no water change craze so start dosing and using biopellets to control nutrient , this resulted in tank crash and corals melting like ice cream. Then decide to upgrade to red sea reefer since see their tank look so chio.. converted my cade PR400 to quarantine tank. Fast forward to red sea tank, started late 2018 till today. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Got some extra frag to let go 1. Flaming sun 2. Nirvana 3. Armour of god 4. Magician 5. sparkle krak Interested Pm me or WhatsApp also can 9654 8959 Sorry admin if I there is some mistakes and did not comply to the new rules and regulations pls let me know where is the mistake if possible Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Hi, I'm looking to get a 4x2x2 tank with sump and cabinet. If anyone is selling, please pm me.

The type of light will depend on the type of corals u intend to keep and your budget. Maybe you want to share more.

Day 22 Got my hands on a Biotek Marine BTM-3000 PAR sensor! The Noopsyche looks bright to me but i guess a PAR reading on the tank would be very beneficial when deciding on coral placement. The light is currently 8" above the water level, and positioned slight over half the width of the tank in order to 'blast'' the rock scape and first half of the tank. So for testing purposes, i set all 5 channels (White, Red/Green, Blue, Royal Blue and UV) to 100%. The single Kessil-like lens on each led puck seems to have diffused the lights pretty well, and im surprised a single unit at 100w over a 60x50x50m tank can produce over 200 par on even the front corner of the sandbed. But as expected from a typical spotlight LED fixture, the PAR is really low on the middle and top sides of the tank. Next i tested a more realistic setting of White & Red/Green at 50%, and Blue, Royal Blue and UV at 100%. The tank looks abit blue for the camera so i did some white balance editing. Expectedly the Noopsyche still performed pretty well and well within the BRS recommandation of 250-350 PAR for SPS. I think raising the light to 10" above water level (the max height for the stand) might improve the spread and i will provide an update again! Thanks for viewing!

Still learning here, just share some of my tots on the tank build Regarding the fuge and ATS, i started this route since day 1 since i tink nature method for nutrient export is less aggro than chemical method. i just add carbon and small amount of gfo in a mesh bag and dump into sump for phosphate control, base on my limited exp, i feel cheato and ATS can control nitrates very well, i seldom test for nitrates as they always come up yellow on the api test kit. But for phosphate not so well as i cant get below 0.1ppm base on natural export method, with GFO can get below 0.1. Den i also read on red field ratio so i guess nature has its limitations. For ATS flow and light is critical, i started off with china ATS unit but seems to do nothing and i worry the light not well built will have short circuit risk as light is exposed to water splashing,so i totally dump the lights and go for AI fuge. Then i see the GHA start to grow, but certain parts still yellowish looking and i read is due to low flow and i upgraded the pump flow. once i switch to the good lights and higher flow, GHA start to grow well, it will take time, but once it start it will be exponential, and my display the algae use to grow like weed on the rocks start to recede, with a old school method of toothbrush and siphon, the remaining algae is removed. Any new growth is taken care by the yellow tang and foxface. photos shows about 10days worth of growth for GHA on algae scrubber Cheato harvest every 2 weeks. And also those who say u need a fuge for critters i also tink is not true lah, i see a lot amphipods, (yes the big amphipods, not the small copepods)hanging out on the GHA on my ATS, i believe the key u must get good growth for the critters to go there. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app