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Self collection in Woodlands

Hi I am looking to sell of this zoa garden that's on my rock scape. Anybody that's interested, do pm me your offer. Sorry for the bad picture.

Selling brand new unused IceCap fish trap. Size small. $50 collection in Yishun https://youtu.be/zgC81lKNkzk

Have this mini-colony to let go at $40 about 3”x 4” in size. Getting too big for my scape & not getting enough light on its undersides. collection at Buona Vista area. PM if keen

Really hate salt water rusting the hinges on the cabinet - wonder if there's a spray you can use on them to prevent that from happening...

The calibration fluid is quite easy to get nowdays as more LFS is bring in. The Standard 35ppt solution. I used to calibrate my refractormeter using the solution and tap water to check the range. Tap water should measure 0 ppt. It will be better to use both instead of either one. For me refractormeter is quite troublesome to use and accuracy run off when u knock and hit it. But after getting Hanna salinity checker, life is so much easy when come to checking salinity. If u don't mind the price tag I strongly recommend u get one.

Awesome diy build! Look forward to more pictures

(Continuing the build series...) Keeping it all very chill. I think one of the questions I have answered most on this forum is 'do I need a chiller?' In trying to remain positive and not add too much expense I typically advise that it's not absolutely necessary to have a chiller and there are other ways to get by. But in all honesty the truth is that you really need one. As we live on the equator unless your ambient room temperature is 27 you need one. I also have learnt that a chiller is something that you should never undersize. A poor undersized chiller will be on literally all the time generating more and more heat as it is fights valiantly yet unsuccessfully to keep your display cool. So in having a modest 500L system I went with the Healia HS-66a which is rated upto 800L. The chiller is placed outside of the house on a small balcony. If possible this is a good idea as all the heat the chiller generates is dispensed outside. The chiller comes on every three/four hours during the daytime and then only for no more then 20mins. (And note this is to chill a tank which sits in a room which has literally no AC). The point is the thermal mass of the water stays relatively constant and so it doesn't need much to nudge it in the right direction. I plumbed the chiller in such a way that my little 40L salt water mixing barrel/ATO can also use the same chiller. I simply turn the two (blue) valves which switches the tank input (to the chiller) and output (from the chiller) OFF, and then I open the two corresponding (red) valves that connect the mixing barrel to the chiller and switch on the pump in the barrel. This allows me to chill the water prior to mixing in the salt. (Tip: It is best to mix salt at cooler temps unless you want a dirty mix as the chemicals can perciperate). I ask ALEXA to set a reminder for 30 mins and also have an inkbird controller that sounds an alarm if the Main Display water temp gets too high, incase I forget to switch back to allow the tank to chill. Within the barrel there is a 'strong' (4m head pressure) 4000L/hr pump inside (I picked up second hand for just $8). Within the barrel there is a T plumbed off the pump, one side goes to the chiller and the other acts as a closed loop within the barrel, circulating the barrels contents. On this leg of the plumbing there is another ball valve that effectively creates additional head pressure as needed, and in doing so forces more of the the water into the chiller. This comes super handy when mixing up salt. When preparing for a water change I chill the water (typically of an evening) down to 25 and throw in a set weight of salt to get the salinity to 1.026. I leave this to mix over night and chill it once again in the morning and double check the salinity. For water changes I simply drain 40L from the main system and then orientate the valves so that the input to the chiller from my barrel is open, along with the output from the chiller to the main display. All other valves are closed. This basically pumps the water from the mixing barrel through the chiller and into my main display. Once the barrel is empty, it gets a quick clean and refilled with RODI as it serves as my ATO reservoir during the rest of the week. For major maintenance I disconnect the chiller from the tank and run RODI with Vinegar OR citric acid through the chiller via the mixing barrel and pump. You'll be amazed how dirty things can get in the chiller. Once done I drain everything in the barrel and rinse the chiller through with a small amount of rodi before reconnecting. I am planning in the near future to get the GHL system to control automatic water changes. Whilst I don't think I need to do too many water changes overall, i still intend to have a regular water change even if it's just amounts to 20% a month after all water changes typically solve 80% of your reefing problems. So I do intend to keep them going all be it 'little and often'. The latest GHL firmwear comes with a some auto water change options that I need to explore ... no doubt this will make for a new future project! Until then hope this helps and happy reefing! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

12 mm to be safe and whether u doing rimless or with bracing. If rimless better go for 12 and above. If with bracing 10-12 shud be safe Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app