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Wow...2 tubes. It will surely hold. I thought 1/2 tube should be sufficient. A small bit goes a long way. You can control the M2 output power with Mobius or Reeflink @ 1% increments. With that, you will be able to get a totally silent drainage as well.

My sump finally done! [emoji1303] Got my acrylic from DAMA trading it cost me around $90/- This Goop silicon/glue is really effective. It glued the acrylic and glass perfectly. Thank you Leon for the recommendation! [emoji4] I used two of this. One cost around $11.90 at hardware city. I applied double layer to ensure it can hold the water pressure. Added two more new valve to control my drainage and M2 output. Hope with this valve it can tune the flow more silent. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bro. No offence ar. Cause I also just bought this. https://s.lazada.sg/s.LaQz New @ $31.60 + $2.20 delivery = $33.60 Maybe you reduce price they might get. Delivery about a week. Ordered on 24 May, 31 may received. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Used selling for $30.

Hi guys, Thanks for the participation, will be organizing the draw and update shortly.. Stay Tune !

My new toys from RMS have arrived also. I did an upgrade from a Gyre XF250 to this 300 series. The packaging is quite neat but the equipments is quite dusty probably due to the wooden divider. Easier to remove and put it back from maintenance due to the color code. The new series also don't have the extra bracket to lock the casing which is quite good. I remember having to use a tweezer to lift up the lock in order to wash the impeller. Below image is what I'm talking about. This gyre also come with a net to cover over the case to prevent any small snails or rocks getting stuck or worse spoil the impeller. This new 300 series also come with a flow director to push the water to whichever direction you want your water to flow and this also reduce your cleaning frequency because it will block unwanted algae (hair algae or commonly Coraline algae) in the impeller which will reduce the flow (efficiency of the pump). Pictures are the front and side view. It looks really nice. All in all is a very nice pump. Can't really comment/compare the flow between the 200 & 300 series but I haven start running this Wavemaker yet. Price wise I find it a bit on the higher side but overall it's still affordable. To be really honest I was a bit regret on upgrading my 250 to 350 probably due to my lack of researching before purchasing it. Because I was expecting this new 300 series to come with a ICV6 controller (Separate RMS selling for $88) but it didn't, another thing is this pump required you to run with two power supply with one controller unlike the 200 series (1 power supply, 1 controller with 2 pumps). I understand there's an adapter to combine both pumps into one power supply but RMS didn't have it. Sadly I thought it should be better than 200 series.

I am happy for you that things are turning better for you. Like all seniors here... I would say patience is the key in this hobby for Long term reefing... enjoy the process! regarding clean up crews it is always best to have a variety. Algae eating an get a variety snails. If really bad, Seahorse would be good but this guy is a workhorse and will starve to death once not enough algae... I get sand dollar to move my sand beneath... since you are concern on sand looking dirty... sand shifting crews or some fishes like jawfish may help. My personal experience if I can would be to stay away from wrasse. ;p just my 2 cents worth. Hear from the rest of the seniors ba. Reef on!

You mean the other way around (see Zeovit bible)? This is a compilation of how much Zeostart3 the gurus are dosing. Cyano gets a huge kickstart and thrives on carbon source (Biopellet, Vinegar, Vodka, Zeostart3, NoPox, etc). Especially if the tank started on dead sterile unhealthy rockwork, and carbon source is added without being taken up by quick multiplying heterotrophic bacteria (Zeobac, Polyplab Genesis, Ultrabio, etc).

If this is so, dosing of bacterials in both zeovit/FM system wouldn't be necessary isn't it? Or user just have a find the magic number of bb and carbon dosing to individual tank environment ? So that the required bb stains remain sufficient(won't go into a mono culture state) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did a search online, however nothing much mention about po4. Nevertheless, I know reducing po4 helps. What I don't understand and wanted to ask is assuming cyano is not due to excessive bb died off, why is it that my method now works? Reduce bb dosing and increase carbon? Some online information says cyano uses carbon as their food sources as well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All you need is reduce 2 hrs photoperiod, reduce feeding, wc twice a week and dose bacteria plus sugar and wet skimming. All cyano will be gone within two weeks Cheers, James