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Hoping to add more color forms of jawbreakers to collection.

Happy to help but there are many good reefers here on the forum so do post openly. I am no quarantine expert, just learning a new side of the hobby. Good news is that there are lots of good information out there. Google Humblefish on reef2reef for expert help. Either way, well done on setting up a QT that is a great first step!! I dont know many people who have a QT let alone someone who has been in hobby just 6m. Wow. I am Impressed. As you have been hit twice in six months (assume in your DT?) I would suspect that ICH is now in your system and if you dont want to see more fish death then you should go Fallow. No fish in system for 72-96 days. Some people say ICH is manageable and inevitable so why bother. But, the day your tank has an incident that stresses the fish and Poof!! the ICH will come back with evengence. Note. If you do have ICH then moving bio blocks into QT may be an issue not a solution, so keep your QT completely seperate. You say 'hit and miss' with quarantine. You need to be very regimented with your QT schedule and system. So keeping it stable temp and ph is also important, as well as following set timing. So let's look a little closer... First off let's look at what you treat with... Hyposalinity, there is some (arguably a lot) of evidence to suggest that this is fairly ineffective on mature ICH. As the ich within gils and borrows beyond the slime coat tends to not be impacted too much. So I would fresh water dip for flukes, but personally I would move to a more aggressive copper treatment in the main QT. Now the Meds... Prazi is for worms. Methylene Blue is effective against fungal infections. Seachem Paraguard is a non copper based solution that will treat ICH (treat for 14 days). Ruby Reef's Rally and kick ich combo... Are both copper free treatments designed to cover a broad spectrum of illness including (and specifically) ICH. So a good collection! I would certainly use the non ich treatments as part of the prophylactic treatments so keep them. However I personally would move to the tried and trusted copper treatment (e.g. cupramine) as my main ICH treatment. Obviously only use for fish that can handle it and keep the paraguard and kick ICH for those that cannot handle copper to well. And I would do this post the TTM. You mentioned 12 hour TTM. I understand that there may be some logic to that as you said you use pails (so water temperature is a consideration). But fish get stressed when you move them and this reduces their ability to fight off disease. As you have to capture them (not pour) fresh water dip (to ensure no flukes and to stop water transfer), then place them in new water this can increase their stress levels. Also If the water is different temp or PH they will stress them out. It is recommended to leave them for 72 hours in one tank before you move to another tank/pail as so to maximise the ICH lifecycle to best effect. You also have to clean, sterilize and dry old tank well, to be ready for it to be used again. 2ft tank. Is good enough. medicine can be scaled to water amount, So dont worry. Obviously bigger fish would prefer a larger tank to swim in, but real world constraints often apply. Dont over feed in the smaller tank as if you run copper you cannot run carbon. Suggest you get a good waterfall filter (seachem Tidal or fluval c2?) Overall you are doing really well. Just some small adjustments. Keep up the good work! Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Thank you both! Greatly appreciate it. I actually have seachem'S cupramine, test kit and cuprasorb available at home. I did set up the qt with intention to do it. But I've not tried it with any fish and ive heard about the horrors of using copper haha. Any tips of doing so without risking the fish and also the 2ft setup (ie; copper damaging the media and stuff). do you guys use cupramine? If so what levels? Heard fishes like flame angels don't do so well in copper.. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

No worries. The more the better. Glad for your input!! Contradictions with meds is an important consideration. As is bio load so thanks for raising that. We also need to consider that fish produce stress hormones which causes other fish to freak out too. Haha. So keeping fish volume down is a good idea. Agree copper is best being part two of any treatment mechanism. Thanks for adding in, it's only by more people sharing their experiences do we grow and learn. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Just to add on, IME hyposalinity is great for treating ich without using copper and so is ttm, but like Rob said, it stresses the fish out a great deal, especially if you’re doing hyposalinity in conjunction with ttm. it’s great that you have a cycled qt. one thing you could do is dedicate all the media in it as one that will only ever be used for that fish-only QT. most medications like this won’t kill all the beneficial bacteria in the system, mostly just the ones in the water column and not the ones that have already colonized the media(which is where most of them are anyway). Also ime it’s not a good idea to add that many different meds at once, as the chemicals in each of them may not be compatible with each other and will probably end up stressing the fish further. one example is when cupramine/copper is used together with something like seachem prime, reacting and creating unsuitable water conditions for the fish. personally, i find the least hassle-free/stressful method for the fish in qt is to do something like this over the course of 1 month: day 1-3: observe the fish in qt without adding any meds. start feeding sparingly on day 2. week 1: if fish starts eating, slowly add copper treatment in low doses(brands like seachem instruct for half dosage in first 2 days before going full strength; i typically do this over a 3-4day period gradually before maintaining the recommended dosage instead) week 2 & 3: leave fish in treated water(copper at 0.3~0.5 mg/l3 and prazi can be used together but i would stay away from adding other meds at the same time) and observe their habits. best results if the fish is quarantined alone, and you can get it used to the foods you feed it too. week 4: do a water change and make the qt’s parameters(especially salinity, pH and temperature) as close to the display tank’s before adding in after the 1mth of quarantine. i’ve tried hyposalinity, ttm and a steady 1mth qt with copper treatment and imo the last one is the most effective. plus if the fish happens to have velvet(god forbid), you essentially save its life if you immediately start treating with copper in a qt- something hyposalinity is ineffective at treating. since you already have a cycled qt, you could dedicate it as a hospital tank too, and avoid the need to set one up everytime you run into an issue. the main challenge to this is you probably need to keep it running most of the time, but as long as you keep a steady salinity for it, the bacteria colony in it should survive(of course, the more media in it the better). that said, i wouldn’t expect it to be able to handle the bioload of multiple fish or larger fish(5-6inches and above) in a 2ft system, but if it’s only 1 fish or 2 smaller fish, it should be fine. i would still rely on water changes every few days or so to manage nutrient levels, but also remember to maintain the treatment dosage levels if you’re doing this (cause water changes will no doubt dilute the concentration rendering it less effective or not at all). If your cycled qt has a significant bacteria population or if the bioload is low, this might not even be necessary. depends on the fish you’re qt-ing as well. the most impt(and difficult) thing about qt imo is the patience and diligence to monitor it as much as possible, cause the bottomline is: water quality in a qt is always going to be less stable than that in a main system, meaning more frequent monitoring is to be expected. hope this helps, and best of luck! and apologies if I’m hijacking your thread[mention=25915]R0B[/mention] :x Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app

Currently the Kalk stirrer is hooked to the Apex & switches ON for 2min. Once every hour. Quite a waste to use the Apex for this simple purpose. Tried using one of those standard smart wifi power plugs. But those only allow a max of about 16 events (i.e. 8x on + 8x off) This is not enough for the kalk stirrer. Objective of this mini project was to free up one plug on the Apex so it can be put into better close loop control of equipment (instead of just using as a standard timer) Using an FRM01 timer board. Set to Function 5 T1 = 2min, T2 = 60min The trigger button is added to manually trigger the stirrer to switch on. Case part is printed. Box is mounted to a 'dry' section of the cabinet.

Did a recalibration of alkatronic and ph probe too as the dkh values keep on moving around... So change out the tubing once again and did a full calibration... Right now trying to see what I can do... No3 is at 10ppm Po4 is at 11ppb which is like 0.034 Abit out of sync... SPS start to show Abit of stress... Trying to stablise my tank Sent from my HMA-L29 using Tapatalk

I’ve gone from this 3 ft (notice the cheap Chinese led lights) To this 4 ft a bit more than a year ago That currently looks like this Over a space of about 3 yrs from when I first bought the 3ft w/stand and sump for 200 sgd. I think all my equipment 2nd hand, except for a Tunze ATO. No my CR is not yet hooked up, this is my project for CB. I’m also planning to add a Clarisea roller I’ve learned so much, I’ve made good friends. It’s given me pleasure, happiness, disappointment, sadness, and has thought me so many lessons. I love my aquarium and I couldn’t imagine my life with out it. Basic Setup: 2 x radion G3 30 watts pro 1 radion G3 30 watts Aqua excel dual pump skimmer Vectra M1 return pump 1 x 10 MPw Wavemaker 1 x 40 mpw wavemaker 1 avast marine spyglass reactor Hailea 1/4 Hp chiller Shoutout to Lorenzo, Jem, Jackie, Kelvin and the many other reefers who have been kind, offered their friendship and have thought me so many things bout this amazing hobby. Proud reefer Proud to be a part of this community Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk