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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/10/2020 in all areas

  1. RODI SETUP: It is said that reefing is simply about keeping good water. Whilst one could argue there are many other aspects, water quality for sure is key without it you wont be going very far. Hence, for my new set up I wanted to make sure that I had good quality RODI water. So first off why would one need RODI vs. Dechlorinated water? Singapore is awesome, and they have amazing quality water. I get 68TDS for my water from the tap, that is typically cleaner then rain water, Great job PUB Singapore! Still for reef needs 68 TDS is still too high. So what does an RODI system do? Firstly RODI systems remove sediments, silt, clay... (it's amazing just how dirty the sediment filter gets from tap water!). Typically a four stage system will have one 5 micron sediment filter. (Bigger systems can couple this with a further 1 Micron filter). Secondly the carbon filters and RO membrane(s) remove any unwanted chemicals like chlorine, chromium, pesticides. The DI resin typically focuses on the removal of heavy metals like copper as well as some acids. Combined they remove impurities, microorganisms, disinfection byproducts, inorganic chemicals, organic chemicals, and even naturally occuring radioactive nuclides! Now whilst Declorinated tap water is okay to use short term all the above elements even in extremely small ppm/ppb will build up over time (Silicone even absorbs heavy metals). This will start to cause issues (typically algae related) for you. My system is currently 7 stages. 1x 5micron sediment filter, 2x Carbon, 2x RO membranes in water saver configuration (the waste water of the first membrane goes into the input of the second filter, and both RO membrane accepted water are joined together). I run 2x DI resin filters. The idea here is to hold the Cation and the Anion resins separately. Typically they deplete at different rates so only one needs to be replaced versus a single mixed bed resin setup that you replace both resins when just one of them depletes. My system also comes with a micro controller, which auto flushes the system, along with keeping track of water quality (alarms come on if water quality is poor). Flushing makes the RO membranes last much longer. In the end you only need a system that produces 0 TDS, additional stages and control systems do nothing more then make the unit more efficient. Whilst the micro controller is awesome, simple systems off lazada will work too. Hope that helps. Happy reefing everyone Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
    3 points
  2. A flower bouquet for MOTHER'S DAY
    3 points
  3. What I use as my ATO reservoir: a FILUR model laundry bin from Ikea. This one in particular can store up to about 28L of water. Running my system at 27.7 degrees celsius, I replenish the ATO reservoir once every 8-10 days. Personally, I find it compact, and it doesn’t take up much surface area at the base due to its small width footprint. Isn’t an eyesore to look at(if you need to place your ato anywhere other than within the sump cabinet)too. Definitely not as bulky and unsightly as a regular mixing bin/barrel. It can also easily store more than 20L of water, and comes conveniently with a flippable lid. Great for large systems. I also have the larger model that can contain up to 40L, which I use for my semi-outdoor system that runs without a chiller and has a higher average temperature. Depending on the day-to-day temperature, it can take anywhere between 10 and 15 days to completely empty. Sent from Singapore Reef Club mobile app
    2 points
  4. Tank maintenance + water change weekend. Usual maintenance routine includes : Measure water parameters. For me, I usually measure it just before water change to know what its like at its 'worst' water condition Look for aiptasia & inject with Aiptasia X Trim corals Measured Phosphate levels. Close to 0.1ppm phosphate after the conversion. Time to change the rowaphos. Nitrates : 5ppm. Hmm...gone up a little due to increased feeding. Need to ramp up flow of the sulfur reactor a little. Calcium : 420ppm, Mg : 1440ppm Alkalinity :
    1 point
  5. Another beautiful coral, Mini Red Anemone. Just splitter n in a process of healing.
    1 point
  6. Let there be light! Two AI Hydra 52HDs and a single OR2 60 Blue Plus provide ample illumination for the corals in the 650mm x 650mm x 500mm glass box.
    1 point
  7. Nice to see so many different varieties of leathers.
    1 point
  8. It was extremely inconvenient to realize the compressor temperature controller is not working properly at 11pm. I noticed the compressor switching on/off more frequently but didn't think much of it. It happened to be a lot worse now. Noticed it suddenly read the tank temperature as 32degC which triggered the compressor to turn on. Then quickly reduced back down to 27degC within 3min. Tried swapping to a new temperature probe but the issue persisted. It was finally resolved after swapping in a new temperature controller. Then monitored it run a full on/off cycle with the compressor at 3am. This is what the Apex temperature chat looked like before & after the temperature controller change. Forward looking my plan for the temperature controller is : Have a full set on standby (not struggling to replace the components at night) Preventive replacement once every 3 years (my set is 4yrs old)
    1 point
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