Articles! We need 'em!

[nicholasloh]

ARTICLES WANTED!

Articles wanted to serve as a guide for new-to-come reefers. these articles will serve as a GOOD guide of local reefkeeping information... Here are some Categories to talk abt:

Fish Families (EG: Tang, Angels...)

Diseases (Ich, Velvet...)

Setting up a Tank

Equipment (Skimmer, Lights...)

Corals (LPS, SPS...)

Invert Guide (Shrimps...)

and ETC ETC

You guys should write an article, if u have experience in it. Its up to u of course, but think of the hundreds that will benefit. So, get down to business...and Have Fun!

Send them to me in a PM, and i'll put it up here.

[DeepBlue]

a little guide will be better, like:

1) must be written by person who submiitted the article

2) references to reefers(like quotes from RC for example) must be credited and the original reefer informed.

3)Pics that are not yours should have permisson granted by the source.

4) Length....(all mag will tell their writers to keep within certain number of words to get their point across effectively. We're not publishing a book here)

[FuEl]

Hmm..I won't mind writing. Do I get paid? Jobless now.

[nicholasloh]

No paid, but got credit...not credit cards though

length, i think its not really important lor...it can be very long, with no substance, or short packed of info... but i think around 500 words lah...

[blueheaven]

I will write one tomorrow

[nicholasloh]

ok thx for support

[blueheaven]

First, may I request this thread be moved to the beginner's forum

Here's my article on Sandbeds

Many people have conflicting ideas on setting up a refugium, especially one with a sandbed. I have seen set ups with a DSB (Deep Sand Bed) of about 4" to 6" thick. And sadly, a lot of people think that just by putting in some sand and macroalgae, they have a working refugium. I firmly say NO.

In my opinion, its important to know and understand the thing you are doing before doing it. Although sandbed dynamics are still being researched, I will provide the current information available.

Bacteria and zones

The main purpose of adding a sandbed is to allow bacteria to colonise on its surface. Many people think of diseases when the word "bacteria" is mentioned. The bacteria we are talking about here are those that convert certain compounds to another form.

There are mainly 2 groups of bacteria, namely the aerobic and anaerobic. Aerobic refers to the presence of air and anaerobic refers to the absence of air.

And the confusion comes as each group will split into 2 groups. The 2 groups are the autotrophs and heterotrophs. Autotroph meaning the organism is able to synthesize its own food from inorganic substances and heterotroph meaning

an organism that cannot synthesize its own food and dependent on organic substances.

Basically, there are 3 groups of bacteria we are interested in. The aerobic autotrophs, aerobic heterotrophs and anaerobic heterotrophs. The aerobic heterotrophs will break down organic substances into inorganic compounds (eg. ammonia). These inorganic compounds are then taken up by aerobic autotrophs which will perform nitrification. The anaerobic heterotrophs will perform denitrification.

The aerobic autotrophs are usually found on the suface layer of sand since they need oxygen and light to synthesize food. The other area around the top 1/3 of the sandbed will be colonised by aerobic heterotrophs. And as oxygen levels decrease down the sandbed, anaerobic heterotrophs will colonize there.

An important point to note is that anaerobic zone actually consisted of 2 different zones. The zone that has oxygen concentrations of 0.5-2 ppm (test conducted by Sam Gamble) is named as the "anoxic" by Bob Goemans. This zone will contain facultative (bacteria that live with or without bacteria) bacteria that fully oxidize nitrate back to nitrogen gas.

The other zone that has no oxygen at all will consist of anaerobic heterotrophs with only convert nitrate into ammonium which is a better fertilizer than nitrates for algae.

This explains why I think that really deep sandbeds are not good as your ultimate goal is to achieve an anoxic zone. The recommended sandbed depth should be 3"-3.5"

Grain size and size of refugium

Normally, people try to use the smallest grain size for their sandbed. This differs between systems and I shall explain.

It is good to have small grain size as it increases the surface area for bacteria to colonise. But this only applies to systems which have the skimmer output there or any other source of oxygenated water. If the area is in lowly oxygenated water, the oxygen diffusion will be limited to the upper layers.

For those people who have lowly oxygenated water in their sandbeds, it is advised to use bigger grain sizes and a bigger sandbed. This will allow oxygen to diffuse deeper faster.

Infauna and their importance

The word "infauna" is new to many people. It actually means the fauna (animals) in the sandbed. So why do these animals make such an importance in sandbeds? The infauna consist of mini-stars, micro-stars, worms, flatworms and a myraid of other small animals. These infauna will constantly shift the sand and their action will prevent the sandbed from reaching a completely anaerobic zone. This action also ensures that the sand does not clump together as a result of precipitation and bacterial actions.

I really hope that LFS will start to bring in recharge kits consisting of these infauna that reefers can add to their sandbed. If not, these animals will come as hitchhikers on live rock.

Quorum Gene Sensing

This is a relatively new concept to sandbed dynamics and it involves bacteria. Quorum sensing is actually a way bacteria produce this gene that senses the population of the bacteria. The researched bacteria is the Vibiro spp. and it is found that the bacteria will produce toxins that kill human cells in high populations.

It will be interesting to do research on the nitrifying bacteria and see whether they will be detrimental in high population sizes. And we could see whether we can stop the production of the Quorum gene .

This comes to the end of my article and I hope readers will find this useful and I will type another article on different types of sumps next.

The top information on different types of bacteria and zones are from Sand Mail, FAMA Aug 2004 by Bob Goemans

[bwilly]

eh good..

but should keep the basic facts..

too indepth get kind of boring..

a reference to more via links or book will be better.

[tineng]

while 'chim', i personally think its a good article as it not only provides beginers the basic but provides enough depth to allow even old hand a chance to explore further....

GOOD writing bro....just wonder if there is any alternative to let articles gain more pomentiance then hidden inside the forums....

[DeepBlue]

Good job

when is the thread starter posting his article?

phyto culturing experience?

[kareen]

Hi all!

I have got some info on DIY additives from the net.... U think people interest?

[DeepBlue]

It would be good to write the article yourself, share your experiences and incorporate links and references to the related sites as supporting facts and further references.

[nicholasloh]

i haf no idea leh... perhaps an article called 'low budget reefing' ? i'll try

[nicholasloh]

~Budget Reefing~

Ever realised that u so love that fish in the aquarium, but is too poor to provide it with an environment? well, master nick gives u some tips on getting the cheapest deals in town! First, look for a 2nd hand tank. if its within ur budget, of say $20 bucks, then get it. not only that, try to ask if the seller has LRs and stuff from his own set and buy them. this shld be around 1/2 of the cost price, and is overally affordable. with this, u will most probably get an FL light, tank, sump/cannister filter, and a pump. this are the fundementals on building ur reef. then, sit down and start planning ur tank's rockscape.try to get deals from fellow reefers, that usually sell at abt $5 per kg. this is much cheaper then outside, and they are cured(though cycling is safer!). then when u got ur LRs, start arranging ur tank's rock scape, and let it cycle for 3 weeks. now, check ur pocket, and allocate ur money to corals and fishes, or juz fishes. taking that ur light is FL, go for simple mushie, yumas, leathers, xenias and star polpys. each piece costs like $3.33 cents at Iwarna. cheap sale there.pick quantity and quality over size. it can grow if u feed it with shrimp meat(mushies and yumas only). dose my phyto plankton to ensure that the corals dun die off after a few weeks. then, after ur tank is up and running with all corals stocked, move on to fishes. these things are better bought from reefers, due to the fact that they already know how to eat and are usually ich-resistant. they are also cheaper now, see how much u haf got, and go to liveaquaria to haf a browse thru the fishes. this will let u see most of the fish in the trade. start making a list of fishes, bearing in mind the amount of bioload ur tank can take. list these fishes according to how u want to introduce them into the tank. this is very important! now that u're done. draw a back-up list of fish substitutes if ur fishes are too EX. now, u're ready to shop thru the net ! start looking out for these cheap deals. visit shops often too, and try to haggle if u can. if the fish is healthy in the LFS and feeding, take it home. anyway, in abt 3 mths time, ur search shld be over if ur tank is small. and there u haf ur amazing tank!~

[bwilly]

eh good effort, but try to do pointers..

easier to see. yours like one big lump..

super confusion.

eg.

What you need to start on reefing.

1) Filter $10

2) Lights $20-30

[tineng]

Hi all!

I have got some info on DIY additives from the net.... U think people interest?

A DIY article would be good. But you must based it on personal experience and also let people know where to get the stuff (locally in Singapore context).....something like this would be good